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Xotic XJ1T Repair - Strip to fix - Wax 'au natural' or re-paint?


carlsim

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14 minutes ago, Richard R said:

Double post

Xotic Damage 2.jpg

 

The thing is, it doesn't look too bad there but the raised paint with sharp edges was particularly annoying! Plus I really liked the picture I found of one of these in a natural finish:

 

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So I am hoping it won't look too far away from this when complete! I have no idea how these are finished in the factory - nitro or poly lacquer - wax and buff, oil, natural or heavily buffed but at the end of the day, I have limited resources and skills set but with some help, I am hoping to get to a finish that I am pleased with. Looking at the picture again it does seem to have a gloss shine in the light - hopefully I will be able to get somewhere near that!

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It's looking very good, @carlsim.   I reckon by the time you've finished you will be pretty close to the above :)

 

Ref the tinted nitro lacquer - if you're going to try that, test it on some scrap first.  Of all of the fussy, shallow and petulant finishes that don't like mixing with finishes not of their social standing, nitro is the worst by a country mile!  xD

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Just now, Andyjr1515 said:

It's looking very good, @carlsim.   I reckon by the time you've finished you will be pretty close to the above :)

 

Ref the tinted nitro lacquer - if you're going to try that, test it on some scrap first.  Of all of the fussy, shallow and petulant finishes that don't like mixing with finishes not of their social standing, nitro is the worst by a country mile!  xD

I tried it on some scrap as you mentioned and it was bloody awful!! More yellow than anything else so I won't be going that route! To be honest, it does contrast a little but I can live with that and sure looks 10 times better than the black plastic one some ham-fisted sod put a hole in so they could access the gain pot on the pre-amp!

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So switched over to 400 grit W&D today with the tru oil and there is a distinct change in smoothness and lustre. Still not shiny and from the pictures, it’s doesn’t look much different but it is definitely less patchy and feel much smoother to the touch. 
Going in the right direction that’s for sure… 

using tru oil is definitely a fool proof way of getting a nice finish. I look at it now and really like the way it looks, the poly will just add a bit of extra gloss and protection! 
All hail the Tru Oil!

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30 minutes ago, carlsim said:

You can see a bit more of the satin sheen coming through here…

IMG_1587.MOV

Yes - spot on.  You're doing a good job on it.

 

So, for folks who were looking for silky smooth satin, it would take just one more wet 'n dry with a small amount of tru-oil and, say, 800 grit and then immediate vigorous buffing to dry it off and create the final sheen.  It's then left overnight to harden and buffed again...and that's it! 

 

For the Ronseal Hardglaze gloss treatment, it's similar, except that, after buffing, you then leave it for 3-4 days minimum to fully dry before beginning the Ronseal wipe treatment covered above :)

 

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15 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Yes - spot on.  You're doing a good job on it.

 

So, for folks who were looking for silky smooth satin, it would take just one more wet 'n dry with a small amount of tru-oil and, say, 800 grit and then immediate vigorous buffing to dry it off and create the final sheen.  It's then left overnight to harden and buffed again...and that's it! 

 

For the Ronseal Hardglaze gloss treatment, it's similar, except that, after buffing, you then leave it for 3-4 days minimum to fully dry before beginning the Ronseal wipe treatment covered above :)

 

Exactly where I am heading @Andyjr1515 - one more wet and dry application with 800 grit, plenty of buffing and I aim to leave it a week before I start the hard glaze.

 

Although, the more I see it in a satin sheeny finish, the more I like it! 🤣 the mind truly boggles with the options...

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25 minutes ago, carlsim said:

Exactly where I am heading @Andyjr1515 - one more wet and dry application with 800 grit, plenty of buffing and I aim to leave it a week before I start the hard glaze.

 

Although, the more I see it in a satin sheeny finish, the more I like it! 🤣 the mind truly boggles with the options...

When it's fully dry after your final buff-up, do yourself a mockup and give yourself a bit of 'air bass' playing time.  It'll tell you which option it wants you to pick.  Either will look great (that really is a nice piece of ash) so it's more about how you feel playing it.  And no-one else can decide that ;)

 

 

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15 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

When it's fully dry after your final buff-up, do yourself a mockup and give yourself a bit of 'air bass' playing time.  It'll tell you which option it wants you to pick.  Either will look great (that really is a nice piece of ash) so it's more about how you feel playing it.  And no-one else can decide that ;)

 

 

Nice one - will certainly do that. And who doesn't love some 'air bass'!?

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It’s funny… I just added an extra coat of tru oil, not wet and dry, just rubbed on and the difference that has made to the shine coming out. I’m going to do another 800 wet and dry tomorrow, leave that over the weekend with possibly another rubbed on coat… I’m now thinking that might be it and forget the poly! 
 

I’m really liking how it looks and the shine coming through now looks lovely. It may well be that in time, if I feel that the tru oil isn’t strong enough, I can always strip down again, sand any marks away and then apply the poly. The more I do with tru oil, the more I like!

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So… 800 w&d today this morning with a further light coating of tru-oil and getting close to completion.

A few minor dust bunnies, swirls and minor irritations so on Monday I plan to wire wool down with 0000 wire wool and then apply a couple more light coats for a final finish. 
I will then decide as to whether to apply the poly finish or not. As it stands, im leaning more towards not to bother, and possibly look at a finishing wax or something for a bit of extra protection, will decide once it’s finished and the tru oil has had at least a week to cure. I’m really chuffed as to how it has come out so far… thanks again to @Andyjr1515 for all his good advice! 
the home straight beckons!!

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Edited by carlsim
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So, no need for wire wool. Gave it a buff this morning after a weekend of it hanging up and it looks great. I'm really chuffed with the end result.

 

I am going to apply some wax to the final finish for a final buff and some extra shine so it will be ready for a reassemble on Friday when I have some spare time. New strings are ready. Will post some final pics of the bass back together.

 

Thanks to everyone who commented and followed and especially to @Andyjr1515 who furnished with me with some excellent advice, recommendations and guidance. Without Basschat - who knows where I would be with this! What a great resource.

 

Carl.

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I must admit, I am adding some wax to the tru-oil finish and it really does give it a final sheen and evenness to the finish.

 

I couldn't get the Birchwood Casey one but I got a CCL fine wax and it goes on lovely... it's a gun stock wax and really finishes it off!

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Edited by carlsim
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So... last post from me with updates - it's finished! Re-assembled today and it's a banger! I'm never confident when it comes to electrics but all re-soldered and working and playing lovely.

 

Thanks again to all who commented and especially to @Andyjr1515 with all his advice and countless replies to my messages. It's been an interesting experience and not something I want to repeat any time soon! However, anyone reading this, don't be put off by something of this ilk. I was worried given the fact it wasn't a budget bass that I could pink torpedo it up but a careful and softly softly approach with the wood paid dividends! I think it looks great and I am sure that this one will be sticking around for a while!

 

Anyway.... a few more final pics: 

 

Control cavity fully shielded

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Battery box and control cover added - I hated the stock black plastic battery cover Xotic out in so I added the Gotah double battery box - much better! I am really pleased with the control cover as well - I may have mentioned that!

 

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Pups are in, bridge in place and all electronics soldered in and finalised. I added some extra earthing just to be sure!

 

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Scratchplate and knobs added:

 

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And a few of the final assembly! 

 

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That's it for this one. I wonder what's next? A 'from scratch' build maybe? Possibly... I am intrigued...

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Absolutely superb result! Like it a lot.

 

I would send the pix to the contact you made at Xotic, thanking them for their help and that this bass had nice wood under the finish.

I would also create a Word document of all the steps you did (pretty much this thread!), print it out, and keep it with the bass. Then when you sell it on there is a) provenance that it really is a refinished Xotic and not a neck on a random body and b) a neat record for the next owner.

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