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Jack Bruce (ish) EB3 / SG Bass


Andyjr1515
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Cut the holes for the controls...and for the infamous 3-pointer :o :



Actually, although there's a twist drill in the shot, all the lead-in holes were done with a Forstner and then expanded where necessary with a twist drill (don't have an 11.5mm forstner!)


Here it is mocked up, with the three-pointer fully fitted. Yes - I know... :rolleyes: :



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On the home straight to the first non neck diving EB3 :) Time someone formulated an effortless finish that you can brush on, one coat and as if by magic it emerges as a perfect smooth high gloss finish, no further work needed. Not likely to happen though.

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[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1476135447' post='3151738']
I would have a bit of fun and make that dial go all the way up to 11
[/quote]
Well, in the old gits 5 piece, Pete, being the bass player, will be quite stunned that he has two more than the 4 he was expecting. Paul the lead guitarist, on the other hand, would have expected 11 as a basic right ;)

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OK - first the bullsh*t photo, then the truth.... :lol:

This is looking pretty good?



Wrong! :rolleyes: There are presently a number of fatal flaws, some unfortunate, some where I deserve all I get and some where you all roll your eyes and say 'told you!' ;)

In no particular order:[list]
[*]Yes - the three-pointer is rubbish and has got to go. Yes, yes, I know :P . Let me drop my defences and say "You were all right and it wasn't even worth trying it" :blush: . Main issue is - in unexpected ways - it sits too high. And to sort it would be major, major surgery. I'll go to plan B and go for a standard flat, chunky bridge that should cover all the evidence
[*]The zero fret needs to be a little higher than the standard frets. For 6-string electrics, I always use the same fret height (many builders put in a higher one even on these) but on a bass, the bottom E just doesn't have enough clearance to let it do its stuff without buzzing
[*]Total, idiotic schoolboy error. Two of the tuners are in the wrong place. Plotted the string runs for zero deflection like a good boy; put the pilot hole the wrong side of the peg, like an eejit :rolleyes: I'll have to see if it will hide without having to replace the headstock plate...
[/list]

The good news is that total weight is around 8lb 6oz and it is going to balance on the strap beautifully.... B)

And it does look rather splendid....

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Looking good, commiserations about the blunder. I keep hoping I will not drop a serious one in my build. I could measure the lowest and highest string height available on my supertone 3 pointer if that would help. Am away from bass until Weds.

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[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1476206372' post='3152345']
As for the 3 point bridge? Cest la vie...you gave it a go and it wasn't to be (Phew :gas: )
[/quote]

Actually....I have a fiendish idea....I'm going to check it out tomorrow....the three pointer [i]might [/i]be staying.... :D

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[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476202148' post='3152269']
Looking good, commiserations about the blunder. I keep hoping I will not drop a serious one in my build. I could measure the lowest and highest string height available on my supertone 3 pointer if that would help. Am away from bass until Weds.
[/quote]

Actually, 3below, a check of the lowest height would be very useful as a fallback in case my fiendish idea comes to nothing. Later in the week is fine...still got plenty to do :)

With a slight compromise to allow the outer strings to bend a bit from the nut, I might also have sorted the tuners with an invisible fix!

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Side angle on strings prevents rattling / spurious vibration in nut slots ☺ Measurements to follow on return to Mid Wales. Are you contemplating a routed recess for the whole bridge to lower into 📥? That would be very skilled and brave 🚫

The zero fret is an interesting issue. Logically (unless I am missing something) the zero fret is no different to any other fret in the near vicinity. Why does the zero fret need to be higher but the first fret does not? Is the amplitude difference between zero and first fret that great?

Edited by 3below
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[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476223024' post='3152544']
Side angle on strings prevents rattling / spurious vibration in nut slots ☺ Measurements to follow on return to Mid Wales. Are you contemplating a routed recess for the whole bridge to lower into 📥? That would be very skilled and brave 🚫

The zero fret is an interesting issue. Logically (unless I am missing something) the zero fret is no different to any other fret in the near vicinity. Why does the zero fret need to be higher but the first fret does not? Is the amplitude difference between zero and first fret that great?
[/quote]
You are quite right about the zero fret. It's that logic why I've always used the same height for 6-string electrics and, logically, it must hold true also for basses. Maybe I've just got a high spot on fret 1...I haven't levelled them yet.

I've discounted the possibility of recessing for the bridge...a sure way for it to end in tears with this particular shape. The thought is to slot the saddles (prob need about 3mm) and the go for the tried and tested through body stringing. That's why measuring a replacement bridge could be useful ;)


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[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1476225593' post='3152567']

You are quite right about the zero fret. It's that logic why I've always used the same height for 6-string electrics and, logically, it must hold true also for basses. Maybe I've just got a high spot on fret 1...I haven't levelled them yet.

I've discounted the possibility of recessing for the bridge...a sure way for it to end in tears with this particular shape. The thought is to slot the saddles (prob need about 3mm) and the go for the tried and tested through body stringing. That's why measuring a replacement bridge could be useful ;)
[/quote]

As you've found out, the zero fret should be a fraction higher, just as a nut slot is a fraction higher. This is because of the way the neck arcs (or doesn't) around the first fret. So a little bit of "relief" is needed from the zero fret, as the truss rod won't provide it in this area very effectively.

Simple to fix though, just don't level the zero when you do the others, if that doesn't give enough clearance just pull it and install a higher fret.

It's looking great and no build is complete without a few obstacles to overcome :)

Edited by Manton Customs
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Hipshot supertone 3 point bridge fitted to SG bass: Baseplate is 7.95mm E & G string, 8.65mm A & D string. Saddles are 7.7mm deep (base to bottom of saddle notch). Approx 15 mm will be the lowest string height above the body (body to underside of string at saddle). Hope this is of some use.

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[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1476291212' post='3153119']
As you've found out, the zero fret should be a fraction higher, just as a nut slot is a fraction higher. This is because of the way the neck arcs (or doesn't) around the first fret. So a little bit of "relief" is needed from the zero fret, as the truss rod won't provide it in this area very effectively.

Simple to fix though, just don't level the zero when you do the others, if that doesn't give enough clearance just pull it and install a higher fret.

It's looking great and no build is complete without a few obstacles to overcome :)
[/quote]

Ah - that makes sense. I thought it might just be my rubbish fret job :lol: As you say, when I do the levelling, I'll leave the zero fret alone. Thanks for the feedback :)

Andy

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[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476295923' post='3153174']
Hipshot supertone 3 point bridge fitted to SG bass: Baseplate is 7.95mm E & G string, 8.65mm A & D string. Saddles are 7.7mm deep (base to bottom of saddle notch). Approx 15 mm will be the lowest string height above the body (body to underside of string at saddle). Hope this is of some use.
[/quote]
That's great info, 3below - thank you very much :) Hopefully it won't take you 6 months to get all the heights back to 'just right' after fiddling with it for me :)

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[quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1476288847' post='3153086']
If the zero fret isn't doing its thing properly, is that not just a case of cutting the slots a little deeper in the nut to allow the string to 'break' over the zero fret?
[/quote]

No - it's firm against the zero fret. As you say, with a zero fret, the nut is cut fully deep as it is just providing lateral positioning and not vertical. I think Manton Customs has probably explained the causes of what I'm experiencing above.

There is, having said that, the possibility of a slight issue with the nut area - for a bit of a construction-related experiment, I have left the headstock angle at pretty much the minimum that would normally be recommended. I was aware this might prove to be a bit too shallow for a decent break angle. No point in assessing it until the other bits relating to the set up are sorted. There are a number of ways round it if it is an issue.

....and you all thought this was one of my more conventional builds :lol:

Edited by Andyjr1515
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[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1476296805' post='3153187']


No - it's firm against the zero fret. As you say, with a zero fret, the nut is cut fully deep as it is just providing lateral positioning and not vertical. I think Manton Customs has probably explained the causes of what I'm experiencing above.

There is, having said that, the possibility of a slight issue with the nut area - for a bit of a construction-related experiment, I have left the headstock angle at pretty much the minimum that would normally be recommended. I was aware this might prove to be a bit too shallow for a decent break angle. No point in assessing it until the other bits relating to the set up are sorted. There are a number of ways round it if it is an issue.

....and you all thought this was one of my more conventional builds :lol:
[/quote]

What angle did you go for? Gibsons tend to be excessive (usually 14 or even 17) and there's really no need for such a steep angle.

Edited by Manton Customs
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[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1476305215' post='3153269']


What angle did you go for? Gibsons tend to be excessive (usually 14 or even 17) and there's really no need for such a steep angle.
[/quote]
It's 8 degrees. I think I read somewhere that 7 degrees is the lowest angle for practical purposes. The one that might be an issue is the bottom E where there isn't much of a run before it gets to the tuner. Then again, it might be fine :)

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[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1476305215' post='3153269']
What angle did you go for? Gibsons tend to be excessive (usually 14 or even 17) and there's really no need for such a steep angle.
[/quote]

An interesting question, I have some extremely capable Physics students at the moment. They should be able to derive the maths and calculate what angle will prevent the string moving in the nut / zero fret view of the applied (plucking) force. Interesting to see how theory will compare to tradition. Should occupy them for a while :)

Edited by 3below
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