Naetharu Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Hi folks, I'm hoping to get a bit of a feel for how difficult / easy it would be for me to de-fret my own bass. I've been given a Dean Edge Pro-4 which is in pretty good condition save for the lowest couple of frets that are starting to lift away from the finger-board. I don't really want to spend money on the bass but it would be nice to turn it into something useful and so I was thinking about de-fretting it. Has anyone here tried doing this to a bass themselves? How difficult was the process. If it makes any difference this bass has a rosewood fingerboard with no inlay markers save for the 12th fret 'D'. I've found a pretty good guide to the process over on Talk-Bass but I'm keen to get a little advice from people that have actually done this before I take a hammer and pliers to the poor thing. Best wishes James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myke Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 I've done it. It's really not too difficult, just take your time and go slowly with it. Put tape in between the frets so if you do get tear out it can easily be replaced. I did it on a maple fretboard and used some rosewood veneer to put in the gaps. What are you planning to fill them with? Oh and be prepared to do a lot of sanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annoying Twit Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 The thing that scares me about it is reports that if you're not careful, some of the fingerboard may come off with the frets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowieBass Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 I've never done this to a bass but I think I can safely say you won't be needing a hammer! LOL There are proper pincers for lifting frets so I'd get those. Also, from what I've seen, briefly heating the frets with something like a soldering iron, is the way to go before you pull them; it softens the glue (which these days seems to be a liquid cyanoacrylate - you'd use that if gluing in wood veneers in the slots left behind). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyTravis Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 It's pretty straightforward, I've done a couple. It's all about the prep. My method involves a Stanley blade, lemon oil, backbow in the neck, and a bit of patience. The right inlays, some woodglue and some snips or needle nosed pliers. If the frets are already lifting out, that's a fair indication you won't have much resistance from the others. Wood glue and sawdust makes a paste the same colour as the fingerboard wood if there are any chips etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hubrad Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 [quote name='Myke' timestamp='1434782559' post='2802729'] I've done it. It's really not too difficult, just take your time and go slowly with it. Put tape in between the frets so if you do get tear out it can easily be replaced. I did it on a maple fretboard and used some rosewood veneer to put in the gaps. What are you planning to fill them with? Oh and be prepared to do a lot of sanding. [/quote] +1 to this. Just take it steady. [quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1434784602' post='2802740'] The thing that scares me about it is reports that if you're not careful, some of the fingerboard may come off with the frets. [/quote] Take it steady. [quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1434784691' post='2802741'] There are proper pincers for lifting frets so I'd get those. Also, from what I've seen, briefly heating the frets with something like a soldering iron, is the way to go before you pull them; it softens the glue (which these days seems to be a liquid cyanoacrylate - you'd use that if gluing in wood veneers in the slots left behind). [/quote] You can make the pincers yourself by filing/grinding flat the nose of some standard end cutters or small pincers. The first time I did a defret, I went in at speed with a chisel.. not recommended! Unless they've been problematic and repaired, the frets shouldn't be glued in to start with. Take it steady and they will wobble out in stages. Firstly pincer under the fret at one end, middle, other end so it just lifts a whisker. Next, grab with the pincers and just give a gentle wobble, end, middle, end. Repeat until it lifts GENTLY out, and you'll lose little or no wood from the fingerboard. Take it steady. [quote name='AndyTravis' timestamp='1434788985' post='2802791'] It's pretty straightforward, I've done a couple. It's all about the prep. ... Wood glue and sawdust makes a paste the same colour as the fingerboard wood if there are any chips etc. [/quote] +1 for prep, also don't rush it. Take it steady. I'd use epoxy (Araldite-a-like) as it's verry durable, considering the duty it will be expected to perform. On that first one I used car filler - it was crap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naetharu Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) [quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1434784691' post='2802741'] I've never done this to a bass but I think I can safely say you won't be needing a hammer! LOL [/quote] The guide from Talk-Bass suggested to place a screw-driver on the base of the frets and gently tap along with a hammer to work them a little loose before using the pliers. I'm not going to simply whack the neck with a mallet until the frets drop out Sounds like it should be reasonably simple provided its taken slow then. As to the filler to use, I've not really thought about that yet. Someone suggested a chemical wood that can be placed in and then sanded down to fill the fret-holes but I've not looked into it. Well I am going to have a go at it tomorrow I think. If it goes well I'll pop some pictures to document the process and result. If, on the other hand, you see a bad-ass 2 bridge and some nifty grover tuners for sale in the bits section early next week you can conclude that I've successfully converted a Dean bass into firewood. Edit: Terrible spelling corrected Edited June 20, 2015 by Naetharu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenitram Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 It's surprisingly easy to do. I did it with an iron and nail clippers to remove the frets. Then veneer and wood glue to fill the holes. Then sand it down, going finer and finer (I used quite fine, and a bit finer than that, and then steel wool or whatever it's called). Do all this with the neck removed from the body. Take your time with the sanding bit to get it all smooth and even. Then tung oil or Danish oil, one of the two, can't remember which. And that's it. I then chose to get a new nut done by a tech, as the old one was sitting too high without the frets. I can't play the thing, but it sits there, looking nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
such Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 I've done two and add +1 to what's been said above. If I can add - I tightened my trussrod to add quite a bit of tension for the time of defretting - I'm not sure if there's any science behind it but I felt like it should "open" the fret slots up a little and make them come out easier. Then, make the neck as straight as possible for the sanding and planing of the fingerboard. I'd use a longish radiused sanding block for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naetharu Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 [quote name='Zenitram' timestamp='1434830855' post='2803206'] Do all this with the neck removed from the body. [/quote] Alas, this one is a thru-neck so no chance of that. Hopefully it should not make too much difference. I don't have the bass to hand right now - its over at a relatives. But for reference its one of these: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/91dH1DmXzEL._SL1500_.jpg However, rather than the mono-rail bridge it has this on it: http://www.gibsonsmusic.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Gibson-Music-7.jpg Are there any special precautions to take with a thru-neck when doing this de-fret? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenitram Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 i just meant so you don't get glue and dust and crap all over your bass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naetharu Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 [quote name='Zenitram' timestamp='1434840441' post='2803283'] i just meant so you don't get glue and dust and crap all over your bass. [/quote] Ah, that's ok then. I'll just have to be careful with the glue pot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyTravis Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 [quote name='such' timestamp='1434838730' post='2803272'] If I can add - I tightened my trussrod to add quite a bit of tension for the time of defretting - I'm not sure if there's any science behind it but I felt like it should "open" the fret slots up a little and make them come out easier. [/quote] I did this, and squirted lemon oil all over the board and left it for a while before starting to make sure the board wasn't dry... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBump Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 I've done it on a Yamaha SG guitar - one thing that made it easier for me is a pair of Stew Mac fret removing pliers - they sit flush with the fretboard and make it really easy to just prise them out. As above, go steady and the tearing will be minimal - even if you do pull out splinters of fretboard, that can be relatively easily corrected with Superglue - just make sure you keep the splinters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorks5stringer Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Plenty of guides on YouTube if you need to look at how it's done rather than read about it...! Alternatively it may be possible to tap down the errant frets thus saving yourself a load of work. Don't know if anyone else mentioned it but you may need to lower the nut too, if going fretless.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naetharu Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 [quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1434927783' post='2803969'] Alternatively it may be possible to tap down the errant frets thus saving yourself a load of work. Don't know if anyone else mentioned it but you may need to lower the nut too, if going fretless.... [/quote] I doubt the bass is worth very much - its a Dean which does not seem to be a very good brand and its only around the £400 - £500 mark when it was new and I doubt I will use it in its current fretted form even if it was perfect as I have another bass I prefer to play. I figure I may as well de-fret the thing as it'd be interesting to try a fret-less bass without having to pay out for one on the off-chance I like it. I'm hoping it will help me develop my ear too since I'm going to have to really listen to what I'm playing. As to the guides, I'll certainly check out pretty much everything I can before attacking the bass. I was going to get started to day but didnt manage to get a new set of strings for it (it has some pretty nasty old round-wound right now). Oh, and thank you for the heads up regarding the nut. It's got a pretty heavy-duty brass nut at the moment so I guess the best thing may be to simply purchase a replacement that is designed for fretless? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamdenRob Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) I think it's one of those things that is very easy to do badly, but requires a level of skill to do properly. Edited June 22, 2015 by CamdenRob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machines Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 I did my Yamaha when I was drunk. Went quite well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorks5stringer Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 [quote name='Naetharu' timestamp='1434936457' post='2803985'] I doubt the bass is worth very much - its a Dean which does not seem to be a very good brand and its only around the £400 - £500 mark when it was new and I doubt I will use it in its current fretted form even if it was perfect as I have another bass I prefer to play. I figure I may as well de-fret the thing as it'd be interesting to try a fret-less bass without having to pay out for one on the off-chance I like it. I'm hoping it will help me develop my ear too since I'm going to have to really listen to what I'm playing. As to the guides, I'll certainly check out pretty much everything I can before attacking the bass. I was going to get started to day but didnt manage to get a new set of strings for it (it has some pretty nasty old round-wound right now). Oh, and thank you for the heads up regarding the nut. It's got a pretty heavy-duty brass nut at the moment so I guess the best thing may be to simply purchase a replacement that is designed for fretless? [/quote] If you can remove the nut, just take the excess height from the underneath , that way you preserve the existing nut slots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
such Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 well, if the slot that the nut sits in is perfectly level etc, it can be done that way. One has to be prepared for working on individual string slots though IME. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenitram Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 [quote name='Naetharu' timestamp='1434936457' post='2803985'] I was going to get started to day but didnt manage to get a new set of strings for it[/quote] You won't be putting strings on it for a while. Once the fret holes are filled, the glue in 'em needs to dry properly, over a few days. I reckon. Then you get at it with the sandpaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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