Stingray Sound

[Kiwi]

[quote name='drTStingray' timestamp='1382601000' post='2254072']
The mute rubbers they used on pre EBs used to fall off - [/quote]
The foam mutes on my '78 were a gungy mess - they'd rotted.

[stingrayPete1977]

My modern ones are sliding around! I made a set for my pre eb from black foam, perfect.

[stingrayPete1977]

[quote name='drTStingray' timestamp='1382601000' post='2254072']
The mutes are on all basses up to about 94 incl Sterlings. Then the same bridge was used with the mute plate removed for a couple of years. The 20th anni Ray introduced a shorter bridge without the mutes followed through to standard production from then to date. All classic basses have them - Sabre Ray and Strtling.

They are so easy to use I have wound them on during sets, and remember this is major flexibility - just using them on the E is great for slap - wind them on a little for a slight muted sound - all the way for real Motown thump but combined with sort of clarity live you expect on a recorded P bass.

I've used them for recording and they make things really thumpy.

The mute rubbers they used on pre EBs used to fall off - the one on my G fell off on about the third gig I did with it about 1980 - if you look at pics of pino in the early. 80s one of his is missing. Not uncommon to find pre EBs with the whole lot missing these days. Just a little pointer to how manufacturing and materials have improved since the 50s 60s 70s! Those of us who had cars back then vividly remember - switches and sun visors could come off in your hand lol! Imagine the mechanicals!!!
[/quote]
Most early ninetees ones I have seen had the Allen head screws in place of the mute kit, flea era as most people call it.

[drTStingray]

The hex screw in place of mutes is from 95/96 - maybe some 94s, Pete. Several 92 and 93s I've seen including my own have mutes. The material they use must be more resilient now - my 93s show no wear and neither those on my 2010 classic. Presumably glues are more space age tech in the mainstream now!!

The 'Flea bridge' is something a bit different - offset of strings and the bridge barrels have slots to fit the approx string guage for each one. Apparently a certain artist plucked so hard they had a tendency to pull the strings off!!!

I believe the hex screw thing was because people had alleged injury catching their hand on the mute assembly plate - must have been incredibly heavy handed - same guy perhaps - lawyers etc etc!! Sterling Ball has said in the past they had no issue with Flea just his people, or something similar - don't quote me. It's prob still somewhere in the MM bass forum old threads.

Edited October 24, 2013 by drTStingray

[stingrayPete1977]

It's the glue that's not holding on mine, i will super glue it next time the strings are off!

[stingrayPete1977]

The Strings run straight on the flea bridge too don't they? I know the ones with the Allen heads are not actually flea bridges but that's what i see often referred to as one in for sale listings etc.

[ezbass]

[quote name='martthebass' timestamp='1382474195' post='2252707']
I like it more as a fretless.....gotta be 2eq though.
[/quote]
Yep I agree, that's a great combo, but then I would wouldn't I

[IMG]http://i308.photobucket.com/albums/kk344/ezbass/FretlessSUB.jpg[/IMG]

Edited October 24, 2013 by ezbass

[stingrayPete1977]

Proper funky bass that is!

[drTStingray]

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1382621803' post='2254526']
The Strings run straight on the flea bridge too don't they? I know the ones with the Allen heads are not actually flea bridges but that's what i see often referred to as one in for sale listings etc.
[/quote]

The Flea bridges are circa 92 to circa 94. The hex bolt ones are the same with the mutes removed referred to as transitional bridge - circa 93 to 96. All shown with pics on musicman.org.

Nice white Sub btw

Edited October 24, 2013 by drTStingray

[ezbass]

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1382631839' post='2254742']
Proper funky bass that is!
[/quote]
[quote name='drTStingray' timestamp='1382634909' post='2254815']
Nice white Sub btw
[/quote]
Thanks chaps, it is a bit tattler in the flesh (that weird finish responsible here) but it does sound rather nice.

[stingrayPete1977]

I have always wanted a white ray!

[stingrayPete1977]

[quote name='drTStingray' timestamp='1382634909' post='2254815']


The Flea bridges are circa 92 to circa 94. The hex bolt ones are the same with the mutes removed referred to as transitional bridge - circa 93 to 96. All shown with pics on musicman.org.

Nice white Sub btw
[/quote]
Ah cool, thanks

[donkelley]

2eq rays (or usa subs in my case) are the single coolest bass I've ever come across after playing or owning an example of nearly all major brand basses over the decades.

little known facts of 2 band music man basses:
- the treble control is boost/cut and it's eq frequency is different depending on if you're cutting it or boosting it.

- the bass control is boost only.... there is no bass cut.

- those saying you can bring out mids more by keeping both knobs not set too high are correct

- despite bass being boost only, there is a lack of bass without the boost engaged, so most stingray players actually keep the bass knob set higher than the treble.

I personally like almost every combination of settings the bass provides but typically like treble cut a little (in other words slightly LESS than half way) and the bass turned up to roughly 70 or 80 percent (of the entire knob's travel).

There ought to be a center detent on the treble to indicate that it's boost/cut, or at least some kind of numbers on the knobs with -5 to 0 to +5 on treble and 0 to 10 on bass, but whatever, it still sounds the same without those marks.

USA subs (2001 to 2005 or whatever the years were) feel exactly like stingrays and sound exactly like stingray classics - if you want a cheap usa stingray bass then a used USA sub is an incredible deal.

[bagsieblue]

[quote name='donkelley' timestamp='1382652540' post='2255188']
2eq rays (or usa subs in my case) are the single coolest bass I've ever come across after playing or owning an example of nearly all major brand basses over the decades.

little known facts of 2 band music man basses:
- the treble control is boost/cut and it's eq frequency is different depending on if you're cutting it or boosting it.

- the bass control is boost only.... there is no bass cut.

- those saying you can bring out mids more by keeping both knobs not set too high are correct

- despite bass being boost only, there is a lack of bass without the boost engaged, so most stingray players actually keep the bass knob set higher than the treble.

I personally like almost every combination of settings the bass provides but typically like treble cut a little (in other words slightly LESS than half way) and the bass turned up to roughly 70 or 80 percent (of the entire knob's travel).

There ought to be a center detent on the treble to indicate that it's boost/cut, or at least some kind of numbers on the knobs with -5 to 0 to +5 on treble and 0 to 10 on bass, but whatever, it still sounds the same without those marks.

USA subs (2001 to 2005 or whatever the years were) feel exactly like stingrays and sound exactly like stingray classics - if you want a cheap usa stingray bass then a used USA sub is an incredible deal.
[/quote]

Bloomin' 'ell - I keep looking for reasons to withdrawn my USA 2EQ SUB from sale - think this has just convinced me.

The above has helped me as I've been struggling getting my head around the EQ Controls.

Few questions for you then please guys:

Can you tell me what different types of settings you are using to dial in different sounds?
- dare I say how to dial in a Flea sound or a Bernard Edwards sound

What strings are you having most joy with? ( I restrung with new Roto's which were rubbish, put unidentified some old strings on and it's much better).

Would my naked black SUB look better with a scrathplate - if so what colour??

[mcnach]

[quote name='bagsieblue' timestamp='1382653225' post='2255205']
What strings are you having most joy with? ( I restrung with new Roto's which were rubbish, put unidentified some old strings on and it's much better).

Would my naked black SUB look better with a scrathplate - if so what colour??
[/quote]

I like the Ernie Ball Cobalts. They are quite rich in mids, which works well on the 2EQ, I find. After they've lost a bit of the initial zing they're at their best, in my opinion.

DR Fat Beams are nice too. I like the hybrid set 45-65-80-105

As for the pickguard for your naked black SUB... If it were mine (something I've considered a few times, seeing your ad! ) I would go for a matt black one. I do have an original SUB one for sale here too Black is about the only colour that works well with the original plates, but I would still prefer black. Tortoiseshell can look AMAZING too...

[paul_5]

Mmmmm, fretless 'Rays just sound the BALLS. I don't know what it is with those 'speed bumps' that most people seem to have fitted on theirs though - stops the mojo coming out.

Edited October 25, 2013 by paul_5

[donkelley]

yea, my usa subs are both 5 strings, one is charcoal (black) fretted with a black pick guard, the other is wine fretless with that sub metal pick guard... both are (pardon me) orgasmic instruments.

not sure what settings for each style of player since so much depends on the amp and setup of that amp too.... I'm not hte best guy to suggest that stuff, I just experiment with my own rig until I get it.

for strings, I finally found THAT sound, the sound I LOOKED for ever since I played a session recording gig a few years ago and the producer had a stingray already setup for me to record on when I got there, the knobs were even taped to the position they wanted (!!).... and I found that tone with my fretted sub by using DR Sunbeams. sunbeams are nickel but with a round core, so nice, soft, flexible design wiht plenty of highs but more mids and more, um, sexiness LoL than DR Hi beams or similar round wound round core steel strings have.

So for me it's DR sunbeams. Sunbeams aren't dissimilar from D'addario XLs but XLs ARE brighter.... and brightness isn't something we need any extra of with the stingray preamps eh?