stevie

Aha - so the rings are not part of the port itself. That makes all the difference. I've now managed to get the rings off and there's a piece of drainpipe underneath. It will be interesting to see what's under the grille. Thanks, Merton.

Are the ports in a Trace Elliot 1153t a push fit? They seem extremely tight and not very sturdy. I'd like to take a look inside the cabinet but the ports don't want to come out. Help. Stevie

I agree it's overpriced. But here's how you can get one for free: [url="http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=aOFvC2Emmu8&feature=channel"]http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=aOFvC2Emmu8&...feature=channel[/url] This company knows what it's doing.

[quote name='Smash' post='378685' date='Jan 13 2009, 10:05 AM']Couple of questions what are the pickups like on these BB's and can you change the bridge i.e. a swap version like Badass on Fenders without drilling?[/quote] I can tell you about the original BBs. You can change the Jazz shaped pickup for a standard replacement but you have to use the original cover and sand the corners off the pickup bobbin. It's not too difficult to do with a small file. The wires will snap if you install a vintage-style pickup with the stiff, cloth covered leadout wires. You should therefore unsolder the cloth wire and use the original plastic wire, which is a lot more flexible. Changing the P-Bass shape pickup is not straightforward and I haven't figured out how to do it yet (anyone??). I'm not even sure if it is worth doing. I changed the rear pickup because it sounded very thin, and was basically pointless. I put a Duncan vintage in there and got more output and a fatter sound. It may work for you. When I got the original pickup out, I discovered it was underwound for some reason - both the resistance and inductance were too low - which is probably why I noticed an improvement.

[quote name='Eight' post='378262' date='Jan 12 2009, 09:09 PM']I would love a copy... so I thoroughly encourage you to undertake the task.[/quote] Me too, but I think you'd probably be OK. Have a look at this: [url="http://www.bemuso.com/musicbiz/musiccopyright.html#canchordsandbeatsbecopyright"]http://www.bemuso.com/musicbiz/musiccopyri...eatsbecopyright[/url]

The easiest way to find out which is positive if there is no clear indication is to use a nine-volt battery (a 1.5V one might do at a pinch). Connect it briefly across the two wires and watch the movement of the speaker. If the speaker goes out, or towards you, the positive terminal on the battery is on the positive conductor of your cable. Connect that conductor to 1+ on the Neutrik.

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='374410' date='Jan 8 2009, 08:37 PM']Both of the wires coming from the speaker are white :S[/quote] Yes, but one of the conductors should have a ridge or a stripe to denote that it's positive. You could always trace the positive and negative from the speaker itself. You will find the 1+ and 1- moulded into the Neutrik socket. 2+ and 2- are not connected.

[quote name='OldGit' post='372392' date='Jan 6 2009, 08:27 PM']The stands came with a thing that could be screwed to a speaker so that it can be mounted on top of the stands if it doesn't have a hole. This isn't it but it's teh same idea[/quote] Aha - I see what you mean ... thanks. It's like the mount that Bose use.

..... although there was a very nice, brand new Celestion neo for sale on here recently for about £50, which seemed like a bargain to me, and would doubtless do the job. It would probably add to the resale value of the amp in fact.

eBay

[quote name='OldGit' post='372178' date='Jan 6 2009, 04:57 PM']I want to stick my little practice combo on a speaker tripod stand. I have a top hat bracket.[/quote] What's a top hat bracket? Do you mean a top hat? If you attach a top hat to the bottom of your combo, you won't be screwing and unscrewing it at all. It will stay under the cabinet and you will simply place the amp on top of the speaker stand, then take it off when you're finished. Unless I'm missing something obvious.

[quote name='PVTele' post='371704' date='Jan 6 2009, 10:28 AM']Right on, Stevie! Good sense from a neighbour (I'm in Wool!) [/quote] Very nice to meet another resident of God's beautiful county. I'm a newcomer myself, but I love it here.

Fender marketing must think the average mental age of its bass customers is about 12. Not quite as bad as Seymout Duncan, who actually puts dirt in his Antiquity pickups and deliberately rusts the metal parts. Why haven't car makers latched onto this idea - I'm sure we'd all rush out to buy a rusty, muddy BMW with scratched and bashed bodywork at twice the price of a pristing one. Wouldn't we?

[quote name='drewie' post='371476' date='Jan 5 2009, 10:18 PM']***SOLD*** Off to Germany for £422. [/quote] The euro has spoken.

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='370349' date='Jan 4 2009, 09:05 PM']Never noticed that! Doh![/quote] You clearly don't have my anal tendencies.

Thank you. That's much better. [center] [/center]

[quote name='BassBod' post='370207' date='Jan 4 2009, 06:53 PM']I had the AH150 (series 6?) head years ago and it developed a bad but hard to find hum after two or three years. Trace took it back and fixed for nothing (including carrier) because they knew what the fault was - the plastic connector block between the pre/power amp shrunk with heat/age and pulled the wires a bit. I never looked inside, but that was what they told me, and I never had a problem with it again (another two years before I went SWR). Sounds like a tech job - good luck![/quote] Interesting, thanks. I'll check that out when I look inside again.

Could one of the moderators please sort out the spelling of the header, for crying out loud?

[quote name='crez5150' post='369807' date='Jan 4 2009, 11:47 AM']Well having worked for their Pro division for a number of years, there was always talk of introducing low cost instrument cabs and amps.... perhaps this is it.... Expect to see some half decent product at decent prices!![/quote] Agreed. Did you know Steve Hewlett during your time there, Crez? Anyway, he was the head designer at Fane for many years before (eventually) becoming technical director for IAG. Lovely fellow. He is a power speaker man (from the south west in fact) - so it is hardly surprising that IAG is now producing sound reinforcement products. I'm looking forward to seeing what they have to offer.

[quote name='drewie' post='370214' date='Jan 4 2009, 07:03 PM']Thanks Stevie - does your bass have a RW board & tort guard?[/quote] No, it's a maple neck and white scratchplate. Get's confusing, doesn't it? It's here: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=33591"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=33591[/url] The photo shows the knobs quite clearly.

Why on earth in A flat? I haven't tried this (yet), but surely A, with those lovely open strings, would have been easier.

I've had a 1982 '57 JV from new and the knobs are rounded, not flat. For what it's worth.

[quote name='Merton' post='369323' date='Jan 3 2009, 04:07 PM']Good work! I'm hoping to have my self-build 1x15 cab in a position to be fired up with the LH500 tomorrow - can't wait as it should sound perfect (for me!)... [/quote] Are you going to post details of your self-build? There's always lots of interest on here, as you know.

[quote name='Sharkfinger' post='365259' date='Dec 29 2008, 01:08 AM']Does anyone have any advice/experience with these speakers?[/quote] Yes, I've used lots of them. They are very reliable, very consistent, and very good sounding, although a bit pricey at full retail. For bass guitar I'd recommend the BM251.3. It needs an enclosure of 30 litres, or 60 litres for a 2x10. It will spank just about anything else you'd like to mention. It has a genuine 5mm xmax, a low resonant frequency and a very smooth response up to around 5kHz. Not cheap, though, and you don't see many second hand ones. Their standard steel frame drivers sound good, but won't handle huge amounts of bass.

This and all of the videos on your site take at least one minute to start playing. I gave up, sorry.