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40hz

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by 40hz

  1. Engineers in the studio - "Can't you just use a Fender?" The response is usually along the lines of "No" with varying severity.
  2. Thank you very much! We'll get there one day I guess! 😂
  3. I recently sold my 1997 Modulus Flea with an eye on putting a deposit down on a new Wal build, however, earlier this week, after a few sherbets, I stumbled across this online at a price far too good to ignore. I don't remotely need it but I could not resist no matter how hard I tried, having always wanted a blue flake model. It's a 2004 model, with the Seymour Duncan pickup and Aguilar OBP-1. It's definitely angrier sounding and not quite as clean as the 1997. This is now my 3rd Flea. I'm not sure I'll ever kick this habit!
  4. Couldn't agree more. I remember it being discussed on here years ago that the Stingray owners tend to be a tad overprotective of their basses and any criticism of them. Here's the thing, of the mass produced basses you can buy, the Stingray is absolutely my favourite! I've owned a few and I'd take one over a P or J or Rick all day long, but that doesn't mean they are perfect or without fault. Unfortunately a huge number of people have reported this issue, myself included, for it to be explained away as we're all wrong or don't have any idea how to EQ a bass (FWIW I have always had very clean amps, ran completely flat). I think even BP on the EB forum has discussed and confirmed this idiosyncracy before. My favourite bass full stop, is a Modulus Flea, I've heard them criticised by others, stating they sound 'sterile' and 'plastic' and somewhat gaudy. But you know what, If someone else has had that experience and that's what they took away, then that's absolutely fine by me. ✌️✌️
  5. Fwiw, although my experience isn't with the exact basses you list, I have had a Warwick Streamer Stage One, a German Streamer LX and a Rockbass Streamer 5 along with the Spector Euro 4. The Warwicks had a much 'barkier', more brittle sound naturally, although with a warm bottom end which I put down to the MEC pre-amps. They still sounded and played phenomenal, however. The Spector Euro 4 (with EMG PJ's and Tonepump preamp) was a fizzier, more full bodied and punchier tone than the Warwicks, which for my personal tastes, I preferred. Both will be built to an equally high standard. Far beyond your usual fare on these hallowed pages anyway!
  6. The guy who played John Deacon is Joseph Mazzello, otherwise known as Timmy from Jurassic Park. Funny that you say that regarding him as he plays Bass in real life!
  7. I'd have this if it would actually fit in my titchy Mazda 2! Great cab and a superb price.
  8. 40hz

    Amp gain.

    Weirdly enough my functions band had the opposite experience. We found maxing the volume on channels and adjusting overall volume using the gain control greatly reduced the feedback and cleared our stage sound up.
  9. Same here, I always use a completely flat EQ. My old 2009 3-band Ray and my USA SUB both suffer/ed from a weak G string in a live context. I don't know the science behind it, but for me it's definitely there, it used to frustrate me a lot on gigs as I could never hear or feel the pops on that string.
  10. Victor has got a fabulous outlook on playing bass and is always an interesting guy to listen to. Sadly, I can't stand his actual music 😂
  11. 40hz

    Amp gain.

    You are quite right. I am very much a 'leave the pre-amp flat' sort of Bass player, and even like that, I notice what I'd describe as a 'strangulation' of tone setting the gain that high.
  12. 40hz

    Amp gain.

    I suspect you might be onto something, Lozz. I'm, personally, the polar opposite in my tastes but it's nice to know I'm not necessarily doing it wrong!
  13. 40hz

    Amp gain.

    Evening all, I've tried to find a precise answer to this using the search function, but am having no luck. My question is, why is it that on every amp I've owned, it is recommended to push the gain close to the clipping point? Are there any benefits to this, because to my ears, it just furs up the sound and make it sound shoutier and far less defined compared to my MUCH preferred method of maxing the volume and using the gain to regulate overall volume (usually no more than a 3rd, amp power rating dependent). I've done this with all of my amps and, IMO, they sound far superior this way. Cleaner, clearer and 'wider' with better transients. It's been the case on every amp I've used/owned, from a Little Mark 2, GK MB800, Trace Elliot GP12 SMX, Eden WTX, and particularly so on my TC BH550. Am I weird?
  14. Sunburst, sunburst, SUNBURST!!! If a bass I'm interested in, is listed in the for sale section, I'll usually open it, get to the first pic, see sunburst and close instantly. Can't chuffin stand it. I'd even refuse a Wal in sunburst (if such an atrocity has ever existed).
  15. Steels do tend to be a bit rougher than nickel as a generalisation. The roughest strings I've personally ever used are Rotosound and Warwick Red Labels funnily enough. A lot of people swear by Roto's but, IMO, they are dreadful and last about an hour to go along with tearing your hands and frets up. I found Dunlop Super Brights to have a nice feel and they didn't rip my hands to shreds. A great, bright, punchy clear tone.You can usually find them for around £25 a set. Another good option are D'addario Pro Steels, they last for ages and are also easy on the hands, you can find these for about £20-25 online.
  16. Ashdown have surely got the best CS in the business. Great company and great amps.
  17. And how does that apply to fretboard material?
  18. *on hold"* Afternoon all, I thought the day would never come, but my desire for a Wal is starting to get silly. This will fund the deposit! Here we have a 1997 Modulus Flea Bass, in silver sparkle finish that really 'pops' under stage lighting. It has an original Lane Poor humbucker fitted, mated to the Bartolini NTBT 2-band 9v preamp with the Gotoh bridge. As far as Flea basses go, this is a rare bird as the earlier Fleas like this have a thinner, even faster neck (as no truss rod), the Flea 'grin' logo on the headstock (97-00) and roller string trees. Weight is about 9lbs, definitely lighter than its previous Fender Marcus Miller stablemate at 9lbs 5oz(I will weigh it shortly for a more accurate reading). I have had nothing but endless incredible comments playing this bass live, a soundman at a fairly large festival last year even remarked that it was "the best sounding bass he had ever worked with" If you don't know what these sound like, then allow me to elaborate. Punch, clarity, full range, crystalline tone with a filthy mid-range that punches through a mix like nothing you've ever heard. Due to the graphite neck and high quality tuners it never goes out of tune on stage in summer or winter. If you want to do the whole Flea thing, it doesn't get any closer than this although that does the bass a disservice as they're superb for any genre, I used it on a Motown gig with the treble rolled off and it did smooth, fat tones with ease. Neck is dead straight and buzz and rattle free. Cons ; As seems to be the case with a lot of older Moduli, the poly finish has aged giving the bass a yellowy, patchy tint from certain angles, although it's impossible to see under the lights of a stage. By all accounts, on Talkbass, a lot of owners have had success with using a cutting compound and buffing this out. There is also a tiny lacquer crack at the corner of the neck pocket. It's miniscule however and barely noticeable. It is a 23 year old bass that has been played, so it has a few nicks here and there but is otherwise in great condition for its age. The neck is surprisingly clean on the back and doesn't exhibit the usual Modulus neck coating chips. Comes with branded Modulus hard case. A firm £2400 for this. It's value is only going one way. No trades. NO SHIPPING. Collection preferred but as always, I'm prepared to drive/meet up within a large radius UK wise.
  19. I'll be stoned for this, but I can't hear any difference at all. If you hadn't put the graphic up and hadn't told us this was a comparison, I'd have assumed this was one bass playing the entire time.
  20. I don't think body wood makes a difference. Or if it does, on an electric Instrument, it's totally overpowered by other factors to the point of being of distinguishable. I've never noticed any tonal similarities due to body wood in the 20 odd basses I've owned. Pickup type and placement is 99.9% of the sound of a solid body electric Instrument. When it comes to neck wood/fingerboard material, I think the difference is there, but it is extremely slight, to the point of it being a non event. Then again, graphite necks have a wildly different sound to anything, so there must be 'something' in having a differing material.
  21. I played one a couple of years back (late 80s model iirc) and loved it. The tone was to die for. Has to be a Mk1, I'm not a fan of the MK2 or MK3 shapes.
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