mikeydee

Try contacting them via the website and see what they say. http://ashdownmusic.com/support/technical/

Assuming that you mean one of the mains fuses as there are two or more internal fuses that you could be referring to. Fuse is there to limit damage in a fault situation, so when I blows it is either because it is the incorrect rating, and old fuses drift in rating value a little or because of serious fault after the fuse. Assuming we are talking mains fuse then suspects include mains transformer and a few other parts in the power supply or the power amplifier itself. A good amp tech can work this out quickly but I have come across quite a few Ashdown with failed transformers so that would be my first suspect. Ashdown supply replacements for around £100.

Hope doesn't cost an arm and leg.

Ah Shame. Do you know which bit of the amp smoked? Quite likely that the power transistors on the power amp are toast. If the board is damaged (charred) then reliable repair isn't achievable. If not then maybe. . . Ashdown do supply parts to techs but I am not sure if they do to general public you need to call them tho as their website is just t shirts and speakers. I guess it is time to look up your local amp tech.

Good stuff. They are 20mm fuses. Mailing sell them for about £2 for a pack of ten. Check the rating carefully and match the A or ma current ating and also the speed T=slow blow and F=fast blow.

+1 Servisol super 10 (best you can get in UK)

I take it that you mean that you connected the output of amp A in to output of Amp B, correct? Bad luck, but I am surprised that a fuse hasn't blown - most likely on the power-amp board. There are several fuses on the main amp board also a mains fuse built into the mains input connector on the amp. There is a little drawer containing a fuse that you need to prise out with a screwdriver. some transformers also have fuses built into them nowadays and these are not servicable. Always check fuses [b]removed from the circuit board [/b]with a continuity meter. Inspection is not good enough and moreover measuring when fitted to fuse holder can give false success readings because of other parts that are in circuit like transformers and heater filaments ( valve amps only). [b][color=#ff0000]Never open an amp while it is connected to the mains.[/color][/b] Good luck with fix. . .

Ditto above. I would also add that when sound isn't there but then breaks through occasionally that it can be a bad connection that is occasionally vibrating into a good contact position. This can include an internal failure on a pot wiper. Getting the amp serviced should include replacing the pots. I would expect charges to be about £45 plus parts. (few quid a pot).

You could try spiratronics bits box and even eBay. Just check the mm dimensions of the switch to get a good replacement. Google image search is really useful for finding a match. It might not have the same markings on it but need same number of connections Mike

I'd say jacks give rustling noise when they are dirty or the metal has been distorted in some way. If you are getting pops I think I would be looking at the battery connection (assuming that it is an active instrument) and that includes the jack connector which is usually used to switch the battery out of circuit when not in use. Hope of some help.

Most likely tightening will fix it. On an old amp like that the constant heating and cooling leads to stretching of the bolts or whatever. Another option is to give the bell covers a light bash with a hammer just to distort the metal. If this is the cause it can alter the resonance and reduce it. Good luck with fix.

Hi Twincam, A word of warning is that you should never operate a valve amp without a speaker lead connected as it can cause damage the output transformer. What is the make and model of the amp? All transformers and wound components will vibrate to some extent. Usually it should be so quiet that its not a problem ie ok for recording. Anything more than that then I would try and work out the source as you are doing by applying pressure to the various safely exposed parts. Sometimes tightening the transformer screws will fix it. Depending on the amp there are screws that pull the laminates together and then there are screws that secure the transformer to the chassis. Other sources are of buzz are neon lights, capacitors

Other good quality option is the Switchcraft range. Usually a bit more expensive than Neutrik and not necessarily worth it for most applications but I like them for their compactness and robustness.

Might be worth ruling out the battery itself by trying another battery one in there and see if the temperature does the same . . it's a possibility that the battery has a fault.

Perhaps the Peavey is picking up noise from the mains. Dimmer switch, refrigerator, pc. Does it do it at a friends house.?

There are lots of options on blue aran website like Celestion, fane eminence etc. Maybe you need more power handling capability than 200 watts given both shot.

Might be dodgy pot wiper but if none of the pots effect it then suspect one of the op amps is shot. Does the noise get effected by guitar signal? If so probably op amp problems. Mike

Yes I agree sounds like it is time to take it to an expert. Good luck with fix.

Bought some brand new Fender flats. Came quicker than amazon prime and a bit cheaper too. Good person to deal with.

Yes but be careful if it is plugged in or turned on. Sometimes the ribbon cables can be troublesome may be worth probing with a chopstick to see if you can identify the problem source.

Moreover since the pre amp controls don't effect the level of the buzz it is safe to say that the fault is introduced after the pre amp. Get a lead and plug it into each connector ten times and see if the fault changes. FX send return pre amp out, phones whatever you have

Agree with I castle check those jack connectors that you never use. They are not just connectors they also act as switches interrupting your signal depending on whether they are in use. Because you don't use them they sometimes oxidise and this layer of invisible rust blocks your connection. In your case it sounds like your ground connection is interrupted assuming it is a buzz like an unconnected jack input.

Check all the wiring carefully by eye and if you have a meter check each speaker measure approximately what its stated impedance is; usually 4, 8 or 16 ohms. I can see a join on a red and a blue in the pictures - Make sure it is secure, ideally soldered or if not then using connector block. Can you tell if the speakers are wired in parallel or series? If in series, then maybe one is dead and therefore neither will work. You can check each speaker independently by connecting a 9v pp3 battery to the speaker terminal very briefly and you should hear a pop as the speaker moves in or out in response to the voltage of the battery. If you get a pop then the speaker cone is sort of working.