Leemo

I have been in touch with Ashdown, they say they could repair them, but I will have to get them to Chelmsford, 180 miles from me. I have a local amp tech, so I will get them to him. Many thanks, Mike, for you input.

Bingo has turned to bugger, Changed the fuses in the draws, powered it up, & they have blown again, and had smoke from the first circuit board. Aaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh !!!

BINGO, Mike you are a genius ! I found the little draw you mentioned & low & behold the fuse has blown in each amp. i will get new ones tomorrow & replace them. Hopefully this will rectify the problem. Thanks again, Matt

Hi Mike, thanks for your response. Yes I did connect speaker output from amp A to speaker output of amp B. I will try & find the little draw you mentioned & put a meter across the fuses, ( I will have to get one first), as i have only inspected them visually. Many thanks for your advice. Regards, Matt

Hi guys, I need some advice please. I have two Ashdown ABM amps. I mistakenly connected the speaker output socket of one to the other. When I connected my guitar both amps died. The kettle leads are fine & the internal fuses look ok, I have counted seven, but there is no power to the amps. Have I cooked something, or is there a quick fix? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Leemo[attachment=209210:Ashdown.jpg]

Hi guys , I have an Ashdown ABM500 15" combo, bought 3 years ago, with the speaker gone down in it. Am I best replacing it with the same, new Ashdown speaker, or, I have been recommended as an alternative a Eminence Kappa 15lf ?. The cost of each speaker is very similar, so that has no bearing on my decision, I just want the best quality & useage life. Many thanks for your thoughts, Leemo

Hi there, I have a JD supernatural for sale, Series II if you're interested. Regards, Leemo

[quote name='Phil Starr' post='1252246' date='May 31 2011, 11:44 PM']The most common cause of buzzes if it isn't something loose are the dust cover (dome in the middle ) coming loose or the corrugated surround coming loose. both can be re glued with copydex latex adhesive. Alternatively it could be a small tear in the cone which can be 'layered up' with copydex and tissue paper. I assume youve checked that nothing is touching the cone and it isn't the rattle of something loose in the cab. Good luck, I hope it isn't something too serious.[/quote] Tried the copydex but still the same, wires seem ok too, nothing else vibrating, must be goosed

[quote name='Phil Starr' post='1256656' date='Jun 4 2011, 05:13 PM']Its not very helpful is it, the way speakers are rated. The trouble is that there are two limits to a speaker the first is how many electrical watts it takes to break the speaker and the second is how far the cone can move before it leaves the magnet behind. The ratings you see are all related to electric watts. The 'RMS' rating is simply a measire of how much heat it can dissipate. Put 300W through a mumber of speakers and if none of them fry after several hours then they are 300W speakers. This is easy to measure and check so RMS is what we see. The problem is we put music not test signals through our speakers. When you pluck a string the note starts loud and decays then there will be a gap and then you play more notes, some loud some quiet. You may be playing with your 500W amp flat out on the loud bits but your average power will be only 20W or so depending upon what you are playing. Your 300W speaker will handle this for years. Manufacturers can easily claim silly 600W program and 1200W max because of this but it is still a 300W speaker. A 5W speaker could handle 1000W for a fraction of a second! You play bass however and the lower the note the further the cone has to travel to reproduce it. there's examples out there of speakers that only have a couple of mm movement before the coil starts to move out of the magnet. For bottom E this means that they can only handle a few watts. Under these conditions your 300W speaker might be only a 30W speaker, Finally there is the question of longevity. Constant movement of any material will lead to its eventual breakdown and the harder you drive a spaeker the faster this happens. Your speaker may well be safe with an overpowered amp but it won't last as long, though it may be years before you find out. There isn't really an easy answer to all this. By and large I use amps and speakers that 'match' I currently run a 600W amp into a 550W speaker and i don't expect a failure. Then again I'm only running it at a fraction of its power and the rest of the band all complain about the volume being too high. the advice that you should just be aware of any distortion and turn down is just perfect. People agonise about this a little too much.[/quote] Many thanks for the advice, Leemo

For those technically minded or electrically minded what is the difference between these wattages. For example I have a 500 Watt amp, what speaker would suit it? Could I have a 300Watt speaker with a max power (or music program) of 600Watt? Please help, many thanks

[quote name='Monckyman' post='1255493' date='Jun 3 2011, 02:45 PM']What they said ^ But also, if you have another speaker cab or can borrow one, just check the amp first and eliminate that from the possible causes of the noise. You say "buzzing" but do you mean constantly or when you hit a low or loud note? I have the same combo and it`s great, but not with the Blueline ashdown speaker in! I use an Ampeg 15"300w. The drivers mentioned above would be a nice upgrade. Should you wish to keep the Blueline, you can get it re-coned if needs be for about £50.00 But for £30 more you could get something a lot nicer. MM[/quote] Yes , I have proved it to be the speaker by connection my 4*10 cab to the abm500 & it is perfect. To be honest it will make sense to buy a new one than have this repaired. There are no obvious signs of wear or tearing. Yes the buzzing is not constant but occurs to be annoying & degrades the sound quality. Would I be ok putting a 300W speaker through a 500W amp as you have done?

[quote name='Phil Starr' post='1252246' date='May 31 2011, 11:44 PM']The most common cause of buzzes if it isn't something loose are the dust cover (dome in the middle ) coming loose or the corrugated surround coming loose. both can be re glued with copydex latex adhesive. Alternatively it could be a small tear in the cone which can be 'layered up' with copydex and tissue paper. I assume youve checked that nothing is touching the cone and it isn't the rattle of something loose in the cab. Good luck, I hope it isn't something too serious.[/quote] Many thanks for your responses & advice , I will double check before splashing out on new one