3below

Are you replacing an existing pot? It could be logarithmic or linear either side of the detent. Are there any legible identity codes on the pot? If not you have four possible ways forward. 1. Ask the manufacturer what pot is fitted, 2.Search the internet for a schematic or clone schematic which might show the pot type, 3. Make some basic measurements, using a multi-meter and determine if the pot is log or lin, 4. Buy a log and a lin centre detent pot. Try them both and see which you like. What preamp is it? the BC collective wisdom may know the answer to your question.

Hence the change plus the removal of "by Leo Fender" on the decal. I have both versions, I prefer the early style one but don't notice (avoid noticing) the shape of the later one when playing it.

Message @Andyjr1515, the master of such repairs among many others.

Take it to a good, reputable luthier. I have two I can suggest but they are both a long way from Norfolk so of little use to you.

Totally agree, I was just thinking about the angle the Allen key emerges at from the slot. Some judgement by the end user is required. Imo, the slot under the Chowny truss rod cover could do with being a few mm wider to make regular Allen key use easy.

One of 4mm, 5mm or 6mm. Can't remember exactly which one since I have not adjusted my brace of them in ages. I do remember you might be better to use one of these, the truss rod slot is relatively narrow. Ebay has some Draper sets at knockdown prices. Your local hardware shop might be equally competitive.

Following on from @Dad3353, sometimes you will encounter a bass (or guitar) that you just can not get sorted. Symptoms of a deeper problem where, stating the obvious, the luthier setup is the way forward.

Great advice from @itu and @Dad3353. One further aspect to consider is whether you loosen the strings before making adjustments. I always adjusted truss rods with the strings in tune, never had a problem with 20? 30? basses. I then encountered my G&L L1505, got stuck in and terminally cracked the fretboard off the neck. Fixed by Jon Shuker (new board, better than new). The advice I was advised to slacken the strings,adjust and bring back into tune. @itu suggests wait an hour which is good advice. Most basses in my experience respond pretty quickly, the hour is a good figure. Some do not, my Warwick Corvette (baseball bat neck) takes several hours to respond. There are many good videos on YouTube on action and truss rod adjustment. Remember also that there are no absolute measurements /settings. Strings, condition of frets, your playing technique all play a part. I have a heavy right hand technique, 2.7mm to 3mm at the 12th fret is the result.

From what I read, Fender neck screws are 8 x 1 3/4. 55mm is 2.1" so 8 x 2" screws might be suitable. These might be worth a try https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361547596279?itmmeta=01HZ363NKT4JDF6HZSVJBNAFEW&hash=item542dea81f7:g:jsYAAOSwNptbyb-l&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4GIGaTJNJoW9nyTYfGFLL%2BNnBZsQ1zWPezYebmeURcnd%2FdMtR95V7Ox0YqhkGTLIjNv%2Bkmg%2BK23vBi89cXNgmP2BZsyctxwNt5HxSI5QAQGvIcqbMQoH0sC7KuVPxO%2BPq0COH4697NhW8ljq9HiVvaNTCuBt2d8rAUvNhf1IXwsS09876RRf169i6RvDKZoIX0e6pqF0m66QnsoGG9tk9Y462fEPX2L7Wn7A3zQb6KRtZ%2FKai0XkMhlioHE35FM7xCiO9FdIz%2BqYsBgFe1pm4hvtRiOw4HouanyH%2B0JF2SSA|tkp%3ABk9SR4Tajub4Yw or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232283099384?itmmeta=01HZ363NKTP82S6379BXSK26QB&hash=item361526d0f8:g:aWwAAOSwsW9Yzc3~&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4M25%2B35hz0DA2jJv%2F7u%2Bx4%2Bgx1dzyNKRwYNxn%2FNwsDq4Qvwhf7HLAmS9YEllYud7EsRiMdGmbtKRny5UN7R1%2FQfPIWp0Tw3ZtyByMcIBa%2B74n08a%2F8nORviAMsVQgLTeFDI7kbkHu6C%2F9qJGCguVyYFH1cjiQoI0rngzBPonZN7XBVtV6hVZkuVXOrrAnRYY74%2BNl9INfLVySMgnpKqYEtqUnGfsXGB9jFdb3r4SmBBLtvi4I2YPu90RXriFSMJdOVYKV1ud0W5jZsjSQ%2FKtxoZaroUXCg2vkknnwA0S2mdj|tkp%3ABFBMhNqO5vhj I had to buy a few types until I found something suitable when I did the same mod on my Chowny SWB-1. The screw head required filing to make the diameter small enough to fit a straplock. Check the depth measurements carefully (again, since you have done so), I had to file a small amount off the screw tip, emerging through the fretboard is best avoided.

They just look so cool, makes me think about building a lightweight clone using a Rumble head. Then again the time is probably better spent playing bass.

My third transaction with Lee. The weather was not as good as last time (11/12 yrs ago on a cab swap, you may get it back one day when I stop playing lol) but Lee was just as great to deal as the last time. Great organisation and communication, you could not ask for a better BC chap. The kit I bought is also rather good. Top man!

^ Great practical advice.

Up to a certain size venue it is still possible to do it 'old school' in a sane manner. I have done the 'too loud' band thing which required ear protection,glad to leave that one behind. My first line band plays venues of 100 - 200 currently. No mixer, pa vocals only, horns not miced, guitarist with 40W combo. Plenty loud enough for our audience and 'show'. The key to this has been discipline, get a good mix at a sensible volume (lighter drumsticks I am told by the drummer) and do not change it. So far so good as we are all old hands at this. If we get to bigger venues needing full pa support this method will hopefully still work, the pa being louder than the band. I would miss the physical feel of my bass going full silent stage however I fully understand the reasons why many do.

AI, that would be Absent Intelligence.... (apologies folks that was too easy a target to refuse).

Bought a DiMarzio Mod 1 pickup from Mark. Excellent all round, great communication, well packed and rapid arrival. Cheers.

If the pieces are broken in a reasonable way, I would Epoxy or superglue them back together. You may need to tape it down on waxed paper to keep everything aligned in place. Sanding down the epoxy squeeze out afterwards may be required. Has to be worth a try since it is currently u/s.

Bought two sets of strap locks from @cd_david Sale went smoothly, wouldn't hesitate to do business again. Excellent communication at all stages and very fast posting.

Gibson SG bass neck dive solved with Hipshot ultralites. This is my go to bass, light, balanced, short scale. It is not perfect, the E string lacks a little something compared to my long scale basses. Chowny SWB-1 neck dive 95% sorted with some s/h BC Hipshots from a Cort. Strangely (in view of the Physics) the Chowny balances better with a strap-lock fitted to one of the neck bolts rather than the top horn. @Andyjr1515 has all the right answers (from my perspective as an ageing Physicist) on why short scale neck dive happens. Here's something I built a while back, 32" scale length. Absolutely no neck dive, 7.9 Lb and no Hipshots ... read on Anti dive provided by a 1 Lb block of lead at the bridge end and Retrovibe machine heads - a few g more than ultralites, way cheaper and just as good imo. Moments about pivots again. The parallel neck shape was an experiment following a 3 string CBG build. Not to be repeated.

£734.00 seems to be the starting price. 500W peak at 4 Ohms, 250 W peak at 8 Ohms.