ikay

Hipshot customer service is excellent by all accounts so I'd drop them a line and see if they can help - https://hipshotproducts.com/pages/contact

That's an interesting idea, hadn't thought of that! It wouldn't work with the series II as the entire preamp circuit and pots are surface mounted on a single board, but in the series I the Vol/Bal and EQ sections are on separate boards so that might work. The two boards are connected by a ribbon cable (unfortunately soldered, not with an edge connector) so you'd just need to identify the input/output and power supply wires.

The circuit diagram for the TRB5 II is on page 7 here - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/539186/Yamaha-Trb-5iif.html?page=7#manual Both the series I and II have single coil soapbars with a dummy coil. The dummy coil is 'balanced' with the active coil on the circuit board to achieve optimum hum reduction. On the series II this balance was adjustable via presets on the circuit board (VR7 and VR8 in the circuit diagram above). Series I had the same setup but without the adjustable presets. Swapping in a new preamp without the dummy coil 'balancing' circuit opens up the possibility of the pickups being more prone to hum. Shielding will help of course, but the benefit of the dummy coil will be compromised. This is what the thread I read about swapping the preamp in a TRB was alluding too. There are a few examples out there of people changing the TRB preamp with good results so it can be done. It's just something to be aware of. If you do get more hum at least you'll know why!

My only caution would be with the pickups. In the early versions (with the slap cut) the soapbars are single coils with a dummy coil and I've read somewhere (on TB I think) about people swapping in a different preamp and getting an annoying hum. Apparently there's some circuitry on the original preamp which deals with this. I have one of these models (fabulous bass) and have often toyed with the idea of swapping the preamp to get a sweepable mid (rather than the three position rotary switch) but been put off by the potential hum issue. If this is in fact rubbish and swapping an East pre in works with no problem then I'd be interested to know!

CTS do mini pots now too - https://www.allparts.uk.com/products/250k-cts-mini-pot-audio-taper-split-shaft

Have a dig around on You Tube for vintage P examples. There's a series of James Jamerson isolated bass tracks which are a good starting point (just search for 'jamerson isolated bass'). A P bass in isolation often doesn't sound like much but they generally work really well in the mix. You may find you're over analysing the frequency content aspect a bit!

Some pickups can suit a particular bass (specific body/wood/neck combination) more than others, the only way to find out is to try them in situ and decide what works best. Did you have the PB-V installed with the previous body and did it sound the same? You say the PB-V sounds beautifully balanced and flat, but looking at the EQ you're applying it sounds like the basic tone is lacking a little definition. Which is a bit odd as you say you've also bypassed the electronics which should make it sound generally brighter. Does the pickup go direct to the output jack and bypass both vol and tone? Have you tried it without bypassing the electronics? The PB-V is voiced as a vintage P and if you want 'that' sound then the load of the vol/tone pots is all part of the magic formula. Good job on the body BTW, looks great!

The pic in the blog shows the cheaper Icon/Ignition bass which has a different pickup mount than the HCT. This is the one that the SD mini humbucker fits (according to the blog anyway, I've not tried it myself). The only way to make the SD humbucker fit the HCT is to cut off the metal brackets or get hold of some Icon pickup mounts (not sure where from). If you go the 'Icon' route, you will also need to cut a hole in the body for the pickup. The HCT pickups just sit on the surface of the body but the Icon has a hole to allow for the bracket with the height adjustment screws. Personally I think the stock HCT pickups are excellent, really strong and beefy. Why the need to change?

The pickup is a 'B90' - made by Serek with a special wind for bass. Sounds pretty much like a Darkstar/Bisonic. If I can't afford a bass maybe I'll just buy a pickup! Haven't looked on TB but will do that.

Built in Chicago. A range of several basses but I'm particularly drawn to the short scale Midwestern and Midwestern 2 with choice of Darkstar, Bisonic or B90 pickups. Quality gear by all accounts but I've not heard of them before. Has anyone this side of the pond got one of these, or even heard of Serek? I'd be interested to hear any views. https://www.serekbasses.com/midwestern

It's fine, gold is a good conductor so the ground wire will work exactly as it did with the previous bridge.

That pickup is still pretty hefty compared with a regular J (which weighs about 100g). Probably a hefty full length magnet under the blade I guess.

Crikey, that's a big weight saving! I can see 4 Ultralites saving around 200g or so but I'd be interested to know how much that pickup weighs in at, surely not half a kilo?

Ah ok, that's not clear from the specs above. Both fretted and fretless on offer?

Love how the S-Type sounds on the Gillett website demo. Do the ex-demo models on offer come with both mag and piezo pickups or just the mag? Fretted or fretless (or both)?

How about a Guild Bisonic reissue pickup for $125 - https://shop.guildguitars.com/product/guild-bs-1-bisonic-bass-pickup/ Be aware of the very narrow pole spacing though (15.6mm I believe)

Yes, a no-load pot is completely removed from the circuit when on '10'

Are these any good? - https://www.bax-shop.co.uk/guitar-screws/fender-screws-for-vintage-tuning-machines-nickel-12-pieces