Pete1967
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Everything posted by Pete1967
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Hey All, I'm planning to install a Seymour Duncan STC3P which has prewired pots, and I'd like to include a passive bypass switch for those 'oh sh*t my battery's dying' moments. The pickups are passive DiMarzios. I have the mod diagram from SD and it recommends that 100k - 250k pots should be used. The only two pots implicated in the mod are the blend and Vol pots - passive tone not required because it's only a disaster recovery design! The blend is already 250k, but the vol, because it's designed to work with the output from the pre, is 10k. So my question is - what's the best compromise here? Do I replace the vol pot with a 250k which would presumably attenuate the pre, or stick with the original 10k which would presumably influence the passive performance, or do I try and find a 100k pot and split the difference?? Diagram below if it helps. [attachment=190048:Drawing1.jpg] TIA for any help. -
Yes, it's just a single pickup in the 'sweet spot'. It's was all easy to fit. You need to read the destructions carefully and dry run it out of the instrument, but no soldering or faffing around....
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One of my builds has an MM5TW in it with an EMG BQC Control EQ (you use the master vol that comes with the PU) and it sounds epic with nickel D'Addarios on it. By far my fav recording bass. Would highly recommend.
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Agree with JPJ re the grades, and I'd recommend Sia or Klingspor.
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Recommendation for Monitor Headphones Please
Pete1967 replied to rainbowreality's topic in Accessories and Misc
Another vote for Audio Technica ATH-M50.... a very flat response and hugely underrated IMVHO -
Schaller BMF's available from Stentor (Touchstone Tonewoods) [url="http://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk/products/bass-115/schaller-bmf-bass-guitar-machine-head-851.aspx"]http://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk/products/bass-115/schaller-bmf-bass-guitar-machine-head-851.aspx[/url]
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IF you're looking at a router as an 'investment' then I'd recommend the DeWalt D26204k. Pricey but well worth it. Trend CraftPro router bits are the best value for money.
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Radius blocks/ gauges for 6 string basses
Pete1967 replied to alembic1989's topic in Repairs and Technical
Have a chat with Brian Watson at www.watsonbasses.co.uk. I think he's the seller that is referenced above. I have his 20" block and use it for 5ers quite successfully. -
Jon Shuker is in Derbyshire, if that's still the Midlands......
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I'd go with the lighter fluid or maybe better soak in penetrating fluid. If its still stubborn you might be able to tease it out with a no 1 screw extractor - but I've never tried!
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I've only ever used the low viscosity glue so I can't comment. Black CA is black because it has black rubber in it so sometimes it doesn't dry rock hard. I've had success by flowing some black off the end of a scalpel blade in to the bottom of the ding and then building the rest up with normal clear stuff. Do thin layers and build the black up until the wood is covered.. The first coats will sink in. Patience is your friend...
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You could colour it with a bit of black marker pen and then drop fill it with CA, or buy a small bottle of black CA which is available from some luthier supplies. Be careful with strip sanding. You can easily sand a hole. I'd stick with a small block.
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Remember the golden BC rule.... "Pics or it never happened"!
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Bought some Ultrajazz pickups off Kim, and echo everything above. Totally seamless and flawless transaction, and excellent communication. Really quick delivery too. Cheers Kim... Pete
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Thanks Koadiakblair... appreciate the comments and any potential recommendation ODB - it sure is pink, actually not quite as startling as the pics make out, but defo not 'Shell' pink! -
[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1409582708' post='2541126'] Someone in one of these threads had a seven string Shuker, but I can't find them now. I'd like to know what that sounds like - should be even better. [/quote] Methinks you're referring to [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/3746-jon-shuker-signature-7-string-bass/page__p__40391__hl__doodle__fromsearch__1#entry40391"]Dood's Doodle[/url]....
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Hi All, I'm selling my Bitsa PBass. The original thinking was to create a budget bass for a friends daughter to learn on, but that fell through so I've decided to sell on. The body is solid wood and almost certainly Paulownia, but I can't be sure. It is quite light though. The neck is JAZZ dimensions and Korean made from Canadian maple with a rosewood board and pearl block inlays. The hardware is generic, but I intentionally steered away from the cheapest end of the market, so the bridge is a decent weight high mass style and the tuners are tight and accurate. Pickups are Wilkinson WPB Alnico V so far from the worst on the market. The pots are Alpha and I can put either 250k or 500k in if you wish. The pearl pickguard is custom made because I discovered that a standard one doesn't fit! Currently strung with nickel EB Super Slinkies String height is 2mm at the 12th and the frets have had a full level, recrown and polish. There's the requisite business card amount of relief in the neck and not a buzz to be heard, and the action will go lower if desired. It's really easy to play and would suit a beginner/learner or even great as a cheap doodling bass for an experienced player that prefers a slimmer neck. Considering it's a bass put together from Far Eastern components it really aint bad, but of course a boutique P made from rare woods it is not, however if you buy it I'll offer a full refund (including the outbound shipping) if you're not happy with it as long as it's returned to me. It owes me about £180 all in (the neck was £70 and the PUP £24) but it is what it is, so asking £120. No case but price includes shipping to the UK mainland (bar perhaps the extremities of Scotland).
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[url="http://www.bassguitarmagazine.com/news/jj-burnel-signature-shuker-on-the-way/"]http://www.bassguitarmagazine.com/news/jj-burnel-signature-shuker-on-the-way/[/url] It has broken cover. The neck is hand carved wood (and not top secret - he just hasn't told anyone ) and skinned with CF, so Jon's technique should allow for variation if he so desired - and it is 100% hand made in his workshop. It sounds epic IMHO, and I'm not really a P man.
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yeah - it's a few weeks work so if you need it to record with, defo hold off. Yes you could use the pinstripe veneer as a barrier. The Ash body will take the stain differently and the contrast would look great. I'd strip the whole body (or at least enough so the masking tape will stick and a light strip on the rest) and mask off when staining. Use the blue making tape and burnish the edges well, or PVC insulating tape works well too because you can stretch it around curves. The extra work will make a much better finish in the end. I'm a fan of the Liberon range and they do a good wax remover, but the Colron stuff you can buy from B&Q is probably the same in a different tin. Good luck - and buy some thermals if you're doing it in the garage over the winter P
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Difficult to tell what finish it is - Warwick use both poly and wax finishes, but most likely wax. A flame maple top would look great if it were stained black first, sanded back and then stained with a colour. The issue is what you'd need to do to get to that point. The original finish needs to be completely removed otherwise the stain wont take properly and it'll end up looking blotchy. Wax is best done using a wax remover and steel wool, followed by a light sanding with 180 grit and a thorough sanding with 240 and 320 grits, and then you're not guaranteed a good result because Warwick put their wax on as liquid so that it soaks in to the wood. If you use a spirit based stain then you'd stand a better chance of getting a result than a water based one I think. Rewaxing is a doddle. Two or three coats of a good finishing oil such as Liberon, a day apart, followed by a couple of coats of a good wax and you're done. There are several good videos on FaceTube about staining. Or take it to a pro....
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Just bought some knobs off Alain. A perfect deal in every respect and a complete gent to boot.
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Woof...... -
Ditto what Pete says, although you may not need to remove the veneer. I'd use a sheet of MDF either side of the headstock to protect it from the clamps, but cover the MDF with parcel tape so the glue doesn't stick it to the headstock if it oozes out. If it's bare wood in the crack use some Titebond, or Evostick white wood glue from B&Q would be OK, but It looks like it might have had an attempt at a repair already - hard to see from the pics. If it has and there's gunk in the crack Aliphatic or PVA might not be the best choice.
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Individual bridges can be a right faff to fit and align. Get it wrong and it can end up looking a bit odd! The accepted wisdom is that they eliminate string to string cross talk, but for all practical purposes the advantage is minimal in my experience. If you want to upgrade the bridge to something more adjustable then my recommendation would be a Schaller 2000.
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SOLD - Thank you
Pete1967 replied to ead's topic in Accessories & Other Musically Related Items For Sale
PM'd re knobs
