JohnH89

Yep . Flick the active/passive switch and use the treble cut .

Flats and tapes man through and through . 5 Basses , 2 fretless , Roto 88s , TI jazz flats and Labella originals . But life would be very boring if we all liked the same things . The bass is a wonderfully diverse instrument .

A tweak on the truss rod may be required . No need for shim if action was OK before .

There is no gain control . It should work fine with active or passive basses . Are you sure the problem is with the amp and not the bass ? Try the passive bass through another amp to rule out problems with the bass .

It'll be fine mate . 🙂

Can't help you on the cost being a DIY man when it comes to instruments . Option 3 for me . I have done 2 now . Plane board off , make new unlined board . Set up . Sounds easier rhan it is but not beyond the reach of someone who is handy with tools . First board was made of Richlite which I absolutely love . Second one was a P bass with a cheap neck that I made a board from a piece of unknown hardwood (sapele?) . Very happy with both . I originally did this due to the sparseness of unlined fretless options . In my heavy handed butchers way of doing things , the original board had the frets pulled and the board taken off with a power plane .

Tim at East street is a star . A true gent to deal with .

I have used Roto 77s on a EMG equipped P bass and loved them . Quite bright for the time I had them on but they will mellow out in time . I have Jamerson 54 originals on a Yamaha BB bass and love the sound and feel of them , but the BB is active so I have a lot more control over the EQ . Also a set of TI jass flats on a Sire P5R 5 string . Loving them , but completely different to both the rotos and the LaBellas . Quite low tension and easy to play . The only way to find out what suits is to try them and see what suits you . Start with the Rotos as you have them already and see how you get on . There is huge variety in the sound and feel of flats .

G Jones Electronic repair in Whitstable . An absolute gent . Look his number up on google .

Last set was £75 for 5 string TI Jazz flats . £50 odd for Labella originals for the Yamaha . All the others have Roto 88 tapes . Just under £50 . The longer I play them the better value they seem . Can't see me changing them in the next 20 years . Long term investment .

+1 for the Hotone nano , I love mine . But the best you will get in my opinion is the Phil Jones bass Bighead . Expensive but an absolute gem .

I use Labella original 54s on my Yamaha BB . Love them . Fortunately I am a heavy handed ( ham fisted?) player so the tendon snapping tension is never a problem . Never liked rounds since day one of playing the bass . To each their own .....

BASSES: Spector, Wal, Dingwall, Fender, Hamer, Jackson, Kramer, ESP, Tokai, Fernandes, Peavey, Yamaha, Aria, Guild, MusicMan, Staccato, Pedulla, G&L, Italia, Hartke, Epiphone, Hohner, Cort, Hagstrom, Feline, Harley Benton AMPS: Gallien Krueger 400RB, 800RB & Legacy800 CAB: Genz Benz Nx2-212T OUTBOARD: Boss, Line 6, TC Elec, Future Impact, Tech21, BBE, MXR, Zoom, Empress, Korg, Keeley & Sennheiser/KZ IEM & BackBeat LOVES: Doobie Bros, Steely Dan, Lake, Chicago, Styx, Kayak, Ambrosia, Alan Parsons, KISS, Journey, REO, Trillion, Toy Matinee, Kate Bush, Damn Yankees, Winger, House Of Lords, Bighorn, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Pomp & Classic Rock There may be your problem . No disrespect intended .

Even better deal with them face to face . I have found over the years that I get a lot more progress , and a whole lot less bulls**t when dealing with folks face to face . I have had all sorts of fob offs , lies , mistruths and even threats of bodily harm over email and telephone , that mysteriously disappear and are resolved when I front up in person . None of this from the lovely folk at BD by the way , I am referring to life in general . If I have a customer in the shop in front of me , they are , at that moment the priority . I will not make them wait while I answer a phone call or an email . It is just common good manners . So to get to the front of the queue , front up . If you want to do a deal via the phone or email , take your place in the queue .

Pick up the phone . Its a lot easier to actually speak to someone .

Had an Xvive U2 for years . Never had a drop out or any other problem . Battery lasted for 5 hours on sunday and still going . Active/passive all good .

I have a Hipshot supertone on my JC . Love it for the looks and adjustability . Not a huge fan of the 3 point bridge but its not a dealbreaker for such a fantastic bass.

Alright , I'll give it a go . I'm not too familiar with their options but ...... White ash body with a wax finish , 66 slab with no contours , maple neck and fingerboard , unlined fretless , Hipshot tuners .

The Geezers are passive . But the same would apply to the active set up . I would have to check but I think the tone caps are the same , but the pots are 25k .

I've played a few gigs with mine but not mega loud stage volume . I had to really try to get it to feedback . Like standing in front of the cab and letting a note ring out . You'll be fine . (probably)

Not sure if its allowed to post a link to the other forum , but this is exactly how I did exactly what the OP is asking about . Its a lot easier than posting it all over here . https://www.talkbass.com/threads/emg-geezer-butler-tone-cap-change.1509081/#post-26970612

A coat of wax and I think it would look OK . Better than a lot of relic jobs anyway .

So buy it . Or buy the pickups . Or don't . I don't get the point .

Well go on then .

Red oxide primer . It actually looks the mutts nuts .