warwickhunt

If you do a search on here you'll find a few threads about waxing Warwicks so I won't bore you with how little I wax mine but one thing to say is that you shouldn't worry too much about waxing the neck. The oil in your hands should be sufficient to keep the neck from drying out and if you wax the neck and don't buff it ALL off then it will become sticky when the neck warms up as you play. I generally wipe the back of the neck with the same lemon oil that I put on the fingerboard whenever I change strings. If it doesn't 'look' dry then it is probably OK!

[quote name='bumnote' post='1045385' date='Dec 2 2010, 05:40 PM']Was that a Longhorn as in Danelectro longhorn?[/quote] No, the Fender Longhorn 'Boner' basses.

[quote name='The Bass Doc' post='1043846' date='Dec 1 2010, 02:37 PM']But oh the sound......my opinion as to why they sounded so different was more to do with the neck construction - maple on maple (no skunk stripe) but the fingerboard was 'rolled' as in almost a veneer on to the already cambered neck. The result was a very 'springy' sound - not that it lacked bass tone, but the top end would cut through with a clank that was remiscent of a Rick in full flight. I kind of proved the neck was the main contributor by swapping it onto my '62 Jazz bass for a while and, sure enough, the 'springy' sound tranferred to that bass too.[/quote] I'll tell you what that is a perfect description of the tone that my PRS has and that is a maple on maple (no skunk), rolled edges etc etc and it has that 'exact' spring to the sound and it has the uncanny knack of sounding like a cross between a MM and a Ric, especially if you solo the neck pup. You must have a try of this PRS some time Howie and see if it is the same tone that you describe. [quote name='LukeFRC' post='1044526' date='Dec 2 2010, 12:16 AM']anyone use tulip wood much for bodies?[/quote] Oddly enough our very own Bass Doc produced a Tulip wood bodied Longhorn bass for Mark 'Marcus' (no not Mr Miller) and though Mark sold it on to another local mental bassist up here (Kevbucket), Kev rates it MASSIVELY and plays it in preference to his MM Cutlass or a brace of other fantastic quality basses that he owns. Something to be said for Tulip wood maybe!

[quote name='The Bass Doc' post='1042358' date='Nov 30 2010, 01:46 PM']OK, ok, It's correct to say I've handled lots of bass players nuts over the years but Clarky would have to live a bit closer for me to have a 'feel' for what the problem might be. Thanks for this oportunity WH. [/quote] I'll set em up...

[quote name='Clarky' post='1042331' date='Nov 30 2010, 01:31 PM']There's no rattling. I have heard of people snapping truss rods by over-tightening, thats what left me a bit fearful. In fact it turns out that the previous owner of the bass (he just PM'd me) found the truss rod pretty stiff to adjust, even with lower tension strings. So it may just be that the issue here is I have a very stiff truss rod that is making me tread too carefully with adjustments for fearing of over-doing it. Thus Warwickhunt's WD40/grease suggestion (for which thanks WH!) may be the solution to my problem here. Well its worth a try anyway [/quote] I spy the Bass Doc looking at your post and he'll have done 100's of such jobs... plus if he posts he gets to make rude jokes about tightening nuts etc!

[quote name='Clarky' post='1042284' date='Nov 30 2010, 01:00 PM']Thanks. I guess its possible that teh truss rod is not "nearly max'd out" but just incredibly stiff? If so, is it possible to oil truss rods. Never thought to ask? Mind you, if it is slipping then that wouldn't help ...[/quote] It's not so much the truss rod settling down as the neck settling. A timespan of 24hrs is perfectly normal to make between adjustments, I'm sure you already know but for others reading; don't be tempted to take it more than 1/4 - 1/2 turn in any one session then leave for a few hours/overnight. Some basses respond and react almost instantly (my Sadowskys had what I would call whippier necks and they all did) but others (i.e. stiffer necked basses like early Warwicks) take days to fettle. Yes you can grease your nuts (fnarr ) but use purpose made grease rather than oil. Not because the oil will do any harm (it'll still do the job) but because the grease will continue doing the job long after oil will. Saying that a little squirt of WD40 or the equivalent stuff that dries without leaving a residue (can't think of the name but it's a bunch of letters and numbers like WD40) can free up any stiffness in your... no I'll refrain!

[quote name='Heliex' post='1041903' date='Nov 30 2010, 03:33 AM']It's worthwhile to exchange in terms of sound quality an variety a Warwick corvette double buck zebrano 5 strings 2009 Germany special edition for a Spector Euro 4 LXFM?[/quote] Sorry mate that's like asking should I eat an apple or a guava fruit; should I buy my wife a camera or a set of cramp-ons... as in climbing gear not a misspelling of an adult marital aid. The $$ (even if it were a 4 string) sounds NOTHING like a Euro LX, so you couldn't make comparisons between the sounds of the respective instruments. If you then throw into the mix that one is a 5 the other a 4 and that one is BO and the other a NT... you get the idea. However to be fair both do have a 'quality' of tone that is very good but they are just completely different animals. The $$ probably has a broader range/variety of sounds than the Euro LX but that can make a decent enough variety of sounds. I bet that doesn't help at all!

[quote name='lemmywinks' post='1041596' date='Nov 29 2010, 08:25 PM']Oh it says 4ohms n the edge of the driver![/quote] [quote name='BassBod' post='1041606' date='Nov 29 2010, 08:34 PM']Sorry to hear about the dead driver....having used that cab for at least 6 years, I even feel a bit sad! But its very interesting that the driver is 4ohms. I used to use a pair with an Eden WT300, and it would overheat/shut down if pushed. Now I know why! Sorry Eden......[/quote] Not pointing fingers at all but it begs the question as to whether the driver is original? Assuming it is meant to be an 8ohm cab (disregarding the horn) and has a 4 ohm driver in it then I'd have misgivings about the originality of the driver, which might impact on your choice of replacement!

First off I don't own one of Alex's cabs so I have no need to plug him/them, I've had the opportunity to try a couple of the Barefaced cabs (inc the Compact and the 2x15) and I've elected to stick with my Aguilar DB12's. I personally prefer the 'different' low end that I get from the DBs which I couldn't quite get from the BF cabs; I've stressed 'different' low end, as you can get plenty bottom end out of the BF cabs but it is a bottom end that is different to the tone I get from the Aggies. However... if you are purely using these as on stage monitors and you are going through the PA then the tone of the BF cabs will be great but I do gigs where I want my backline to be the only source of bass (not through PA) and I think the Aggies trump the BFs in that respect. Saying all of that, we have mentioned weight! They REALLY are that light and you can find something with a mass of 26lb but it will still catch you out when you pick one of those cabs up; it does make you wonder if they have forgotten to put the driver in or that they've sealed helium in the cab.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='1041326' date='Nov 29 2010, 04:28 PM']It was 'Sound Inc'...[/quote] In that case I'd better make an apology to my mate at 'Notes' for casting aspersions on 'his' Ashdown rig (and leads)!

Could the cabs be out of phase with each other? I may have been in the rehearsal rooms you speak of with this rig (I actually had mine with me as I don't trust/rate rehearsal room gear even though it was actually the singer from my old band who runs the rooms... sorry Marti! ), though it was a 2x10 + 1x15 when I was in. I moved the gear out of the way and tbh the cables that were used to connect the cabs to the amp looked distinctly 'pants' so if this was the same rig with cabs swapped for newer ones (or from another room) then I'd be suspecting some issues with the cables!

Was that 'Notes' rehearsal rooms?

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='1040503' date='Nov 28 2010, 09:50 PM']...when I was playing Black Velvet in a covers band.[/quote] I'd have paid good money to see you play stuff like that!

It looks like it could be from the budget/mid-price range of Ibanez, Yamaha or any one of a large handful of manufacturers. However, that doesn't mean to say that it won't be a phenomenal sounding and playing bass but on first impressions it doesn't look to be pushing too many boundaries.

4's Each to his own but I've never found a B string that I like the sound of when played open (that has included 35" scale basses) and for the sake of an extra 5 (3 if I drop tune the E) notes to add to the 96 I presently have available on my 4 string basses... I'll pass.

As there is no obvious structural damage to the cab I'd be surprised if the driver has failed as a result of being chucked around. From experience drivers are pretty robust, though other components may not be. I'd be inclined to check X-overs etc to see if anything has come loose and to ensure that it is the driver I'd fit it into a different cab and see if it is a 'fail'... alternatively bypass the wiring and x-over and try a direct connection to the back of the driver to see that it functions.