Stub Mandrel

I bought my Hohner Jack V for £130 and I'd happily do a tone face-off against all comers 🙂

Bugger me. I always wondered who and when invented the idea of a consistently repetitive underlying rhythm. Now I know.

Sounds like he might as well get himself a Dingwall, then you can try it out and see if it fits or not.

Of course, if you're worried about someone else's lips being all over the mic, it means you expect to get yours on it too... No one is innocent.

And the entire nation of Canada. Well, perhaps not.

What gear do the rest of the band have?

I suggest you marry your band. Most people would be delighted to have a partner who insists they buy a £2.5K bass.

Classic: Epic: Unbeatable!

https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_hot_rod_5_bass.htm?sid=a20760ee68faa618fe4b6c1459db7b3c And if they don't like you can afford to poke it up their bottoms.

First a question... can you clarify which Status Quo bass player is meant? Or are they all better than everyone else? Second, it's well know that Rhino Edwards' choice of tone woods is above reproach.

Amusing that sound engineers get exercised about people swapping mics, or even amplifiers. No-one raises an eyebrow if you swap guitars for basses, even active for passive... heaven help us I bet the sound engineers don't even care which tone wood you use 🙂

I want to get into building more seriously, so I've ordered some inexpensive fret pliers. I have some fret wire, when it comes out I will compare and if it's different I will order some to match. Thanks 🙂

I have carefully set up my Tanglewood acoustic bass, dropping the bridge by another mm (I'd taken at least 2mm off it a year ago) and tweaking the truss rod to get the action really nice and low and surprisingly the fixed intonation has improved. Annoyingly there is one buzzing fret - fret 8 on the D-string, and it is quite bad. Careful inspection and I'm 100% sure that it's a low patch, not fret 9 being high, so scraping fret 9 down won't solve t - just move the problem up a fret. Looking at fret 8 it has a tiny crack visible between it and the fingerboard under the E, A and G strings (which don't buzz) but not the D. I suspect that in its past it has fallen on something that has given a hefty knock to the D-string right on the fret, pushing it in. I expect that removing the fret and very slightly reshaping it, or even just replacing it would cure the problem. But I don't have any idea how to remove it without damaging the fretboard, can anyone advise.

Hawkwind 50

My tone is entirely dependent on the tonewood the bass I am using is made of*. *Or more accurately, the cost per cubic foot of the tonewood...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tonewood

Plane crazy.

Semitone 😉

Many a true word posted in jest: https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/line-6-variax-bass-700

Those whose delicate ears cannot cope with inferior lumber, need the latest Line 6 Variax basses with Dial-A-ToneTM body material emulation.

I have ten basses, all different woods and they all sound and feel different but I'd be very wary of attempting to put the differences down to the body materials. In a band setting, I take different basses to rehearsals to see what suits what best. When I was gigging regularly (back in the 90s) I'd use three different basses over a gig for different sounds. So I can hear differences. But not between different woods.

But... the pups will make most of the tonal change. Also... does ash sound better than basswood? Or does Ash sound better because it's associated with vintage fenders?

I have a Markbass dap bag. It's cleverly designed so that everything falls out if you pick it up by the wrong part of the cord, conveniently arranging all your accessories on the floor.

Some of my basses only have 20 frets and I can't reach the High E in 'The Real Me'. Have I been ripped off? Am I due a refund? Is it possible to retrofit and extra fret, perhaps by supergluing one to the end of the neck? Can I swap a fret over from one of my 24-fret basses.