Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

bloke_zero

⭐Supporting Member⭐
  • Posts

    784
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by bloke_zero

  1. Yes - I was thinking of Steinberger and the resin bodies - seemed like an interesting trade off - higher density material to offset the smaller body. Can you point me in the direction of any literature on that point? I see gotoh do a CF bridge - seems like a nice pairing with a status neck.
  2. So I was thinking about that neck dead spot thing, where the neck will create dead spots where its resonances will interfere with certain frequencies. Putting the neck out of the picture for a minute, I'm thinking that in some ways the best combination might be to have a dense body with a very stiff low mass bridge anchored firmly to body, that way the string would be free to vibrate without fighting resonances in the body? Obviously you'd want a really stiff neck too.
  3. I have a pbass with a similar arrangement, but just for the tone and with trimmers. I like your sliders much more!
  4. OOooooh! Thats one of the configurations I've been looking at, except in 4. Seems like that is tone for days!
  5. I've a Warmoth '54 mahogany body - thought it might help get towards that rounded Jah Wobble Magnum tone. The weight isn't too bad, and the tone is thick and woody, though that may be the pickup! I really like those Warmoth bodies - yours looks a beaut!
  6. Lots of distortion or overdrive lose bass frequencies along the way so it's useful to have a way to blend in the original signal with the bass intact. I think this is essental for a lot of bass effects and can transform flange, filter FX as well. But really useful with distortion and basses or synths where you'd loose a lot of the power in the lower frequencies.
  7. Not sure it'll do much except the open notes. I hear brass makes it sound more like a fretted note, which I guess makes sense. Aluminium I'd have thought would dump more of the string energy into the neck, but I think the consensus is that the difference will be minimal. I'd be interested to see how it goes if you do. I think it's one of those things that individually don't make a lot of difference but cumulatively make a bass feel good.
  8. Worth checking something like this: https://www.simplyduty.com/import-calculator/ I was looking at getting a neck from the US and it was 20% VAT + 3.5% import duty on shipping and item cost.
  9. His stuff is generally made to be easy. Probably solder free screw in. I put one of his mm pre’s in and it was just a matter of screwing in the right wires.
  10. £125 posted (in a softcase) OBO For your consideration a 1995 (or there abouts) Peavey Forum Bass. The second iteration with a single VFL humbucker and active preamp (Axcel I think it said on the PCB?) “Quality equipment for working musicians at fair prices.” - Hartley Peavey This bass has seen active service and as such don't be afraid to make an offer if you think the price is too high. It has chips out of the body all over and a slight ding in the fingerboard, nothing that affects playability. There is plenty of wear in the frets and the neck is straight and true. It's a great sounding bass with an 18V active preamp providing plenty of body. Here is a little snippet I recorded today after putting copper shielding (before it was impossibly noisy): https://www.dropbox.com/s/cyky3rkuzw3qpue/Peavy Forum EQ.wav?dl=0 Recorded direct with a little bit of compression on the way in this shows the EQ with straight, bass cut, bass boost, treble boost and last treble cut. EQ is shelving with +/-12dB at 96Hz for bass and 255Hz for treble, which as you can hear above is plenty. Specs Neck: Maple with rosewood fingerboard. 1.7″ at the nut with a depth of about 0.75" at the 3rd fret with a fairly flat radius. It's a nice shallow C profile, very playable. Frets: 21 nickel-silver Body: Swamp Ash or Alder, poly finish Pickup: harmonically placed VFL Plus active unit Preamp: 18v +-12db shelving EQ bass and treble Weight: 9lb 10oz Condition Overall it's a fun bass to play, a bit heavy but it never bothered me. No neck dive, plenty of 'meat and potatoes' tone with the active preamp. Good EQ frequencies make it easy to dial in dub or new wave. Great American craftmanship! Good Frets have some wear but minor - see pics Electronics in good shape and benefited from copper shielding, pots quiet, preamp quiet and powerful Very playable and dependable instrument that has been gigged many times and will hopefully gig many times more Wide range of tones, good pickup Easy to get in tune and intonated correctly - bridge saddles in good shape. Bad Some fret buzz on the D string at the 12th fret - frets could use some leveling - it's set to Fender standard 2.5mm and is barely noticeable there - if you wanted to go lower it would be problematic at that fret on D - 13th fret needs slightly lowering for the D. Many chips in finish Had to put some solder on the E tuning peg where it is slightly bent and was rattling (now silent and functions well, but bend is noticeable) The truss rod allen nut is a bit mashed - it's how it came to me. I have never had an issue with getting purchase, but you need to be patient and make sure the key is in before turning. Here is a link to a bit of Peavey Forum history: https://www.vintageguitar.com/14373/peavey-forum-basses/
  11. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
  12. I think G&L are getting more well known the UK - a couple of years ago they didn't seem to have a lot of distribution here. It was like "George and who?"
  13. I think the Ampeg ultra lo and hi buttons do a thing, slight boost at 40, and dips the mids at 500. I remember trying it the first time and getting an instant "oh, thats how a recorded bass sounds" feel from it. I think there is a lot to be said from restrained use of shelving EQ. Though I'm more of a cut than boost guy.
  14. For reference - this is how to restore: https://blog.simmonsmuseum.com/?p=1210
  15. Done deal! I'm glad they'll be going to a home where they'll be able to finally meet up with some more simmons! I'll box them up with the piezos and connectors for you.
  16. Preamp PCB arrived courtesy of a bass chat member! I read through the complete 38 page thread on talk bass and I think I’m ready to start sourcing the parts. Now committed to having a six pot monster. Vol, vol, mid, bass, cutoff and resonance. I guess monsters are what it’s all about on the island of doctor Moreau! Though I’m wondering about a switch for resonance. https://www.talkbass.com/threads/the-passinwind-open-source-preamp.1259692/
  17. Oh and here is a squier short scale I found looking for that link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Squire-Short-Scale-Bass-Neck/224195435789?hash=item343316dd0d:g:qL0AAOSwqvRffy-R 55mm neckpocket as opposed to the Warmoth which is 60mm
  18. I've just been through the same dilema but with medium and did exactly what you are thinking of doing - buy a warmoth and scalp the neck. It doesn't feel right! Just note that if you do find a bronco neck they will be a different set of pocket dimensions from Warmoth who are very specific. Unless you're going for Warmoth it might be worth waiting on that side for the actual neck and measuring it up from there. I thought about shimming a bronco neck into a warmoth neck pocket but that felt even wronger! Retrovibe are selling medium scale necks on ebay if that is any help! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Retrovibe-bass-neck-32-medium-scale-20-fret-Maple-Blackwood/274205157501?hash=item3fd7e6a87d:g:pNwAAOSwQOpeHwt3
  19. Don't forget shelving eq - Ampeg for example use james or baxendal looks like this: Much nicer sounding to my ears - though I agree putting it at 40hz is limited!
  20. Sending back starting to reveal the grain. I’m thinking it looks good! Thinking about filling the pick guard screw holes and maybe a white stain. Though I’m worried that could be a bit “Habitat”
  21. If I don’t get any bites I can pack them up for you. Maybe we can work out postage costs?
  22. Nice - I like the offset pickguard! I'm hoping I might get away without a pickguard, but I like the way it reveals the burl
  23. The pads are super simple. A piezo glued to a piece of wood - not much to fail! Versions of the brain were flakey. The early versions were just analogue voices and pretty robust to this day, some are quite sought after!
  24. I think it might be! and I've seen some really nice natural mustangs recently that made me think a more natural stain could work. Though I can't see a jaguar any other colour than black in my head. I'll see what speaks!
×
×
  • Create New...