Mottlefeeder

Coming in a little late, but I have hearing loss, use a 1 x 10 on the floor as my main rig (!), and have gone to IEMs. There are some small mixers out there that have a 3 band EQ. That gives you some scope for taking an ambient mic input and/or a feed from the pa, and a feed from your bass/bass amp, and putting the missing mids back in to be fed to your in-ears. Eg the Alto ZMX862. Some PC audio interfaces can also be used stand-alone and can EQ and limit 2 channels into headphones, eg the Steinberg UR22C MKII (There may still be one of these for sale here) David

Copper is a good enough conductor of heat that you can solder a bridge across a join withiut damaging the wood/plastic underneath. David

If it was a public space, it might have a hearing loop installed, which could be feeding magnetically to your bass's pick-ups. That could give you anything from hum through distortion to feedback. David

With regard to the use of a linear volume pot, the manufacturer may have taken the option recommended by Rod Elliott and others, and used a resistor between the pot wiper and pot ground to convert the linear effect into a logarithmic one with a smoother characteristic than a cheap log pot would give you. David

True - and mine does! I was not really thinking it through. David

Agreed, but with a mixer you can just fade up an additional channel - you don't have to rewire the system to accomodate another music source. David

One advantage of a mixer is that you can connect other sources to it, eg an mp3 player, and eq the sound from them. I use the eq to drop out the bass on tracks that I am working on - I could not do that with an interface without first importing the song onto the PC/Mac. David

It may just be the camera angle and the fact that you can only see half of the pup. This image looks better. David

If it was me... You could start by taking the grill off and checking the cones for splits or tears in the surround. Next, assuming you have three hands, play bass through it while you press gently on each cone in turn, and each centre dome in turn, to see is you can identify the faulty unit. Next, take the speakers out or take the cab back or front off, and measure the resistance of each driver. The actual measurement probably dos not matter if you find one is significantly different to the others. Next- that's where I run out of ideas. David

As an alternative to moving the neck strap-point to the left, you could try moving the bridge strap point to the left. Take the bridge strap end off the bass, thread a shoelace/bootlace through the strap keyhole and tie the 'lace ends to the existing strap buttons. Slide the moveable end of the strap towards the fixed end, and note the point where the bass sits right for you. Take the 'lace off, tie a loop in it to fix the position of the strap end and put it back on the bass. It's cheap, discreet, and removable if it doesn't work for you. David

A couple of things that might help - a) Practice for a few days with a rubber band around your ring finger and pinkie to help you get used to them working together. b) start working on songs, one key at a time, relearning the finger patterns when using the 5th string. David

An 8 ohm recone kit to make it into a standard deltalite 12 II would include a new coil, but the UK price appears to be around £100 from Lean audio. David

One of the most effective ways to get lead into your body is to handle solder, then roll a cigarette and smoke it. Lead contaminated paper, high temperature combustion, perfect. David

The mini Vong may only be 12dB/octave but the HPF/LPF Vong has a 12dB/octave 30Hz filter followed by a 12dB/octave variable filter, bringing you closer to the thumpinator 36dB/octave. There is also the FDeck HPF where the current generation are also 12dB fixed + 12dB variable. There is a tried and tested veroboard layout for this on a DIY pedals site. <http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/F-deck-HPF-Series-3-td44880.html If you have a builder available that would be an option. David

Thanks for asking. I'm still very happy with it from a portability and sound point of view, but the guts hanging off the back is a bit unsightly, so I may rebuild it into a slightly larger case in order to tidy that up - but keeping the same enclosure size and tuning. I took it down to the SW bass bash and it was liked by those who tried it, so I'm also happy that my enthusiasm for it is justified. As far as volume is concerned, I've been asked to turn it down on a couple of occasions outdoors, so it is plenty loud enough to keep up with acoustic guitars, vocals and electronic drums going through the PA at appropriate volumes for a street market. A 7AHr 12v battery lasts about 4 hours, so taking a spare battery means I'm set up for the day. David

A car stereo booster amplifier from a reputable brand will give you about 70w into an 8 ohm speaker and will run off a £17 12 volt battery for a couple of hours. Most are sensitive enough that you can plug an active bass into it and get almost full volume out of it. Unknown brands of far-east models may only give you about 10w, but anything badged as complying with CEA 2006 should give RMS power in the specification regardless of what sales have screen printed on the casing. My last two builds included the speaker enclosures, but you will get the general idea from them. David

Have you got room for a blob of hot melt glue to strengthen the joint or to anchor the cable to the pickup? David

The Omni 10 was a 2 x 10 design that some builders chopped in half to make 1 x 10s (AKA Omni 10.5). Bill commented at the time that the port tuning was retained, but the modified cab was more likely to chuff due to the reduced port size. The Jack 10 was designed to replace it. With only two tweeters, your version was built for bass use. The PA version used several piezo tweeters, either in a single column, or cut and glued as pairs in a double column. David

Replied to Kev's 'MXR81 wanted' post. We agreed the price, and although I made it clear I was out of the area for a few days, and could not pack/post it till I got pack, Kev transferred the full amount to my account almost immediately. Good communications, hassle free transaction. David

The US string adapter has a convex dished end to the screw and a corresponding concave dish at the bottom of the clamp screwhole. As you tighten the screw, it crimps the string and prevents it unraveling (so they say). I have successfully removed cut strings and put them back on, so it does appear to work. Thomann sell a similar string adapter. https://www.thomann.de/gb/steinberger_guitars_stadb05_adapter_5_string_bk.htm I've also found that bending strings through 90 degrees does not work with flatwounds. David

I have two of these, and would happily buy another if I needed one. https://leathergraft.co.uk/shop/ols/products/the-softy-guitar/v/4" Soft Brwn David

#16 Mottlefeeder David

I guessed its main purpose by the unblemished state it was in - a tool used for its purpose and treated with respect. My feeler gauges became redundant as soon as I earned enough to pay someone else to service my car, so I'm thinking of them as thin, sacrificial, toughened steel. David