Mottlefeeder
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Everything posted by Mottlefeeder
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I think that the concept of a double flat comes from the need to use each note name once and once only in a scale in that key. So if you have already used the E (as an Eb), the next note up has to be an F something. David
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x2 Taurus TF112 cabs x2 £150 each or £195 for both - *SOLD*
Mottlefeeder replied to la bam's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
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x2 Taurus TF112 cabs x2 £150 each or £195 for both - *SOLD*
Mottlefeeder replied to la bam's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
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- 3 replies
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- mackie mixer
- headphone monitor
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(and 2 more)
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The IEM (in ear monitors) Bible thread
Mottlefeeder replied to EBS_freak's topic in Accessories and Misc
A set of high quality hearing aids will set you back £2500 - £3500, so these being in that ball park does not surprise me. I'm currently on my third or fourth monitoring setup intended to mimic the eq curve of my hearing aids, so there is a market there. David -
Bought a Zoom pedal from Ben. The process was disrupted by a family issue Ben had to deal with, but the pedal was dispatched promptly when he returned home. David
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I was looking for a multiscale 5-string headless, and ended up with a short list of two, in two separate shops. Drove to the first one, but didn't like the bass. The second one was in GG in Birmingham, who had shipped the bass in from another branch for me to try. Apart from missing the entrance to the car park, and having to go round the block again, it was a smooth and enjoyable visit - as others have said, friendly staff, basic questions about the type of rig I wanted to play through, then as long as I needed to try out the bass. No hard sell, and best of all, Mrs Mottlefeeder paid for it. David
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RedSub BT5110 - gone wonky, call it a day?
Mottlefeeder replied to neepheid's topic in Repairs and Technical
When you talk about logic to mute the amp when the headphones are plugged in, are you sure it is logic controlled, and not just power amp to switched headphone socket with a couple of resistors to cut down on the signal. If the latter, it is a weak point and it might be worth squirting switch cleaner into the socket assembly (not water dispersant WD40) and inserting/removing the headphone plug several times to see if that clears the problem. David -
Tom bought a speaker tilt-back stand from me. Pm'd within 15 minutes of my post! Money transferred quickly. Smooth transaction, just like all the ones above. David
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If the ports are on top, you can't have an amp on top, but you will have a nice flat surface just waiting for someone to put their pint on... As far as the sound is concerned, I think that the ports only operate around the resonant frequency of the cab, so I'm not sure that you would hear much note definition from them. David
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- 2 replies
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- speaker stand
- tilt back
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Most reputable car amp manufacturers specify Watts RMS into 4 ohms @ 1% distortion with a 14.4v in accordance with the 'Amplifier power standard CTA 2006' (I've also seen it written as CEA 2006). If in doubt, check the paperwork, not the silkscreen printing. David
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As an alternative to the 'wedge in front' speaker tilt gadget, this one is a 'lean back and relax' design. It clips together like a warning triangle, and the straps from each corner are trapped under the speaker, which can then lean back against the triangle. Each of the straps has two button holes, giving four tilt options. The manufacturer's website is here http://standback.net The original design included a nut and bolt in the soft bit that went under the speaker cab, which sounded like bad news for tolex, so I substituted a squash ball on a string. However, I'm now using IEMs, so I have no need to tilt my cabs. It's yours, posted within UK Mainland, for £15
- 2 replies
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- speaker stand
- tilt back
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I tried an experiment using the speaker box calculator WinISD - checking the responses of a 4-pole filter and 2 * 2-pole filters, all supposedly Butterworth. The 2 * 2-pole filter had a much gentler knee than the other, so that may have been part of what you heard. David
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The attached PDF is a 2018 copy of FDeck's 12dB +12dB HPF design notes, and a tested and proven guitar-fx stripboard layout. Note, the user opted for a TL074 with a 9v supply, but it is not recommended for use at less than 10v David downloadfile.PDF
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Often a crackle can be traced to something as simple as dirty contacts on a socket, to my first action would be a plug into each signal socket in turn and see if the noise persists or disappears. For the effects loop, take a guitar lead and link the Fx send to the Fx return. Next, you could try splitting the circuit into blocks and checking each block. Try feeding the signal from the Fx send to a mixer or another amplifier and see if that crackles. Next, take a signal from another source into the Fx return, and see if that crackles. That's probably as far as I would advise you to go unless you are knowledgeable enough to take the amp out of the combo and work on it without electrocuting yourself. David
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Pretty much what I thought - for the same money or less, you can have a well known brand with no resale problems, or an unknown with the problems that might bring. David
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Why would anyone bring an expensive, unknown brand into the UK and hope to make a profit from it? David
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Through neck build 10+ years in the making!
Mottlefeeder replied to MichaelDean's topic in Build Diaries
You said it weighs like a boat anchor - that isn't going to change much by taking some material off the back, and you then run the risk of it being neck heavy. Before you put more effort into it, ask yourself, are you going to play this regularly, because you like it, or occasionally, out of guilt, because you put lots of money/effort into it? If your only motivation is 'I've started so I must finish' then you are basically making an ornament. Advertise it and let it go. David -
Through neck build 10+ years in the making!
Mottlefeeder replied to MichaelDean's topic in Build Diaries
That is my take too. I build electronic gadgets, park the ones that didn't work, and use the ones that work until making a Mk 2 is required. Park your project for several months. If you still don't feel inclined to fix it, or don't feel you have the skills to fix it, or don't feel inclined to pay to have it fixed, strip it for parts and reuse/dispose of them. David