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Bassassin

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Everything posted by Bassassin

  1. Even if Leo Quan was going out of business, I doubt that would be the end of the Badass - as well as being a massively popular retrofit bridge, it's now a standard part on numerous production basses, including several Fenders. The design would be licensed out & produced elsewhere. Jon.
  2. [quote name='finnbass' post='105651' date='Dec 17 2007, 11:26 PM']You're just one of those conventional, 'stick-in-the muds' who cling-on to outmoded conventions like having strings above the fretboard... [/quote] I had a traumatising experience with some misaligned strings at a very vulnerable age. I still suffer nightmares accompanied with uncontrollable flatulence to this very day. J.
  3. I think it's quite spectacular - I don't usually like singlecuts much but that's really very striking & original. Shame the pics aren't a bit more detailed. Jon.
  4. Bit of an off-day in the factory to get the bridge quite as misaligned as that - the g-string's nearly hanging off the top of the fingerboard. Also looks like a replacement, home-chewed "custum" brass nut. Maybe the owner liked the strings to be in unconventional places. Jon.
  5. [quote name='nick' post='105314' date='Dec 17 2007, 01:23 PM']It looks very similar to Univox basses of the same type, from 70's. So I'm guessing it counts as Japcrap firewood(?) Any ideas, familiar to you Jon?[/quote] Can't give you a 100% ID but... [url="http://www.matsumoku.org/models/aria/hollow/sem/semi.html"]http://www.matsumoku.org/models/aria/hollow/sem/semi.html[/url] Check out the 5120 bass - particularly the neck - offset dots, Gibbo headstock, same tuners & TRC, they're related alright. Bear in mind it doesn't necessarily mean it's a Matsumoku - all the contributors to the Mat board agree there's no confirmed Aria/ Mat link prior to 1975 - indeed it's not confirmed that Matsumoku built guitars at all before then, and yours looks older than that. However, it's widely accepted that Univox was sourced from the same builder as Aria - and this looks like pretty good evidence: And the neckplate will have "Steel Reinforced Neck" and a random serial number, as well as Made in Japan. I know these things.... According to the old [i]Guru's Guitar Guide[/i], Commodore was: [quote]"Japan, late 60s - 70s, UK importer brand name, at first on various cheapo originals, and then some copies, eg Dan Armstrong see through solid repro."[/quote] Anyway Nick, do post some piccies when it drops through your letterbox! J.
  6. Stand-out must be our first gig in Prague, last September. We were over there as guests of a big-in-the-Czech Republic local band, and were meant to be playing an out-of-town festival, which ended up being pulled at the eleventh hour because of a Biblical scale deluge. The other band pulled some strings & blagged us a last-minute gig in a sweaty little rock pub called the Vagon - we found ourselves, just hours after getting off the plane (and me & guitarist Nick whacking it at the idea of our instruments in the hold) looking at each other in bemused disbelief, playing like bastards to a packed audience - who'd been expecting a DJ, not a live band from the UK! Followed by drinking ridiculously cheap, hangover-free lager into the small hours with the other band & a gaggle of ex-pat Brits, all pissing ourselves at Nick's increasingly desperate attempts to pull. Good times... Jon.
  7. + 18 - which includes my daughter's, which used to be mine, but doesn't include the boxes of bits sufficient to build another 3... [size=6][b]313[/b][/size] Jon.
  8. Blimey - that were right rapid - well done! I couldn't have afforded it any way - [i]bad[/i] time of year! J.
  9. All the more reason to try not to mod it, through necessity or otherwise, if he wants to keep it, it will appreciate in value. I'd recommend getting on the www.rickresource.com basses board, & letting them know the problems. They're a very knowledgeable & friendly bunch, and they'll likely be able to recommend replacement tuners, or maybe even help source a set of old Grovers. J.
  10. [quote name='bigd1' post='104555' date='Dec 15 2007, 12:14 AM']That is an option I suggested, but he wants to much for it. He would be looking for £1100 inc original case. I don't think he would get that much for it.[/quote] I think £1100 for a 1974 4001 is a quite realistic expectation, unless it's utterly trashed & unplayable. J.
  11. Sold for £2822. I'd've had to flog a lot of JapCrap to run to that. J.
  12. For me it's because I've always said that if RIC did a reissue of the old late 60s/early 70s 4001 - checked binding, full-width inlays, toaster, skunk stripe, the works - then I'd buy one. This is the closest thing, in terms of the overall look, to have come out of the factory since 1973. That & the fact it's a one-off & completely unique, they have no plans to introduce this as a colour/trim option. That means that whatever someone ends up paying for it, it'll be massively collectable & probably appreciate in value. Funny things, Ricks. J.
  13. [quote name='bigd1' post='104455' date='Dec 14 2007, 06:57 PM']I forgot to say these tunners have been repaired a couple of times, I think they are now knackered and beyond repair.[/quote] If he doesn't want them, I'll take them off his hands... I think the standard part on a modern 4003 is a Schaller - as far as I know, the model they use has the same post diameter as the old Grovers, so it shopuld be possible to fit them without drilling for anything other than the screws. With a vintage instrument like that, he really, really should try & keep it as stock as possible - definitely don't make [b]any[/b] irreversible modifications. Jon.
  14. [quote name='paul h' post='103811' date='Dec 13 2007, 12:32 PM']I am sure Bassassin will be along shortly with his encyclopedic knowledge of all things jap and Crap! paul.[/quote] - Predictable, ain't it? I have to admit to not knowing a huge amount about Tokais - however, go over to [url="http://www.tokaiforum.com/"]http://www.tokaiforum.com/[/url] and you'll likely find the answers you want about your Jazz Sound. The Tokai Registry site (which the forum is attached to) has a good archive of vintage catalogues so you might be able to identify your bass from there. As far as good Japanese P copies - well I can definitely recommend an Ibanez 2366b, cos I've got one & it's lovely - satisfies most of my P-related GAS. The problem is, I've never seen another one for sale since I got mine (from a member of the old BassWorld board), and being an Ibanez, they're likely to be pricey. However - Japcrap P copies are pretty common, and ordinarily don't tend to go for much - they seldom get into 3 figures, and quite often seem to go for around the £50 - £60 mark. This means you can take your pick, and if it's not what you want you'll get your money back easily enough, & try another. The low prices aren't necessarily a reflection of quality, either - what's interesting about the 70s Jap stuff in the UK is that much of it carries importers' brands, rather than the "known" names like Ibanez & Aria. The basses branded as Columbus, Avon, Satellite etc were often as not from the same factories as the "big" names. Obviously there's a fair amount of dross, but many of these old basses have survived 30-odd years simply because they are good instruments. Jon.
  15. This is apparently a one-off, brand - new 4003 with an "experimental" factory finish, being sold through RIC's Ebay outlet: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250195938031"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=250195938031[/url] If that was a production bass, I'd sell my JapCrap & buy one. No question. Jon.
  16. [quote name='silverfoxnik' post='103878' date='Dec 13 2007, 02:06 PM']Jon, you are spot on sir! The tuners on my Hondo are unbranded Grover copies that came from another Ric clone. I bought them here on BC earlier this year (along with some other bits & bobs) in order to repair the much inferior original stock Hondo ones that were in a complete mess! The body of the Hondo is ply wood sadly and as for the neck plate, I'll have to check it when I get home later.[/quote] That answers the question, Nik - and the neckplate will be plain, with nothing stamped on it - there might possibly be a sticker with the model number... The reason I was interested is that Hondos are a bit of a mystery - most of them (probably including yours) were made by Samick in Korea, but in the late 70s / early 80s Hondo tried to up their game by sourcing some from Japan. A few are known to have come from Matsumoku - who were one of the builders who used the Grover copy tuners on their Rick copies. J.
  17. Your Hondobacker's interesting - are the tuners real "wavy" Grovers or unbranded copies? I only ask because some of the better quality Rick clones had fake Grovers, but I've never seen them on a Hondo. Can I also ask if there's anything stamped on the neckplate, and is the body made from ply or real wood? Sorry for the inquisition - but I have a rather unhealthy obsession with these things - probably comes from not being able to afford a real Rick! Jon.
  18. [quote name='Freuds_Cat' post='103038' date='Dec 12 2007, 04:22 AM']I used Rotosound (RS66 Rounds) for about 20 years and slowly but surely watched the price go through the roof and the quality decline greatly in about 2002/3.[/quote] Exactly my experience - I used RS66 for years and finally got the message after my third set with a dead A. These days, I'm very impressed with Elixirs - I love the brightness & slipperyness, and they pretty much last for ever, even with my hamfisted & heavyhanded technique. On the original topic, I bought a few packs of Rosetti strings at £3 a set from Music Live a few years back, I actually thought they were fine, sounded good new, and didn't go dead as quickly as some cheap strings I've experimented with. I have a set on my Ibanez Roadster, and they still sound pretty good now. But I would imagine quality control - or lack of - is one of the reasons they're so cheap, and maybe I simply got lucky. Jon.
  19. [quote name='Happy Jack' post='101553' date='Dec 9 2007, 12:29 AM']What do we know about Freshers, Jon? Can't say as I've ever heard of them. Are they any good? Jack[/quote] We can now add "bolt-neck Rick copy" to the Fresher KnowledgeBase: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280183149355"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=280183149355[/url] Wonder who made that? The pics aren't giving anything away. J.
  20. [quote name='steve-soar' post='102580' date='Dec 11 2007, 10:24 AM']Hi Bassassin, you need to get yourself some Marine Epoxy, carefully measure out the resin and hardener in a glass beaker using a glass rod to mix the two together. By using glass it's easier to clean with solvents to remove any waste so you can then repeat with a second coat. To apply the first coat first mask the entier neck so as to only leave the fingerboard exposed, making sure that you have prepared the board to remove any dirt and grease by sanding, a 240 grade garnet paper should work but be carefull not to alter the profile of the fingerboard. Make sure that you know the radius of the fingerboard before you start sanding. you will need a radius gague to keep cheking that you don't sand the fingerboard into a different shape. Apply the carefully mixed resin to the board, making sure there are no air bubbles in the resin, by smearing it along the length of the fingerboard with the glass rod. You need to work quickly and carefully as the resin cures in no time, then after your first coat clean the rod and beaker with solvent so you can do a second mix for your second application. Leave the first coat to dry for at least 24 hours then sand rough so as to key the fingerboard for the next coat. When you have repeated this you need to check the fingerboard has its correct profile then buff and polish the resin to a shine. Hope this helps, any problems get in touch Cheers Steve.[/quote] Very much obliged to you for that, Steve - actually sounds pretty straightforward. What sort of quantity of marine epoxy would I need & do you recommend any particular brand or supplier? J.
  21. [quote name='Happy Jack' post='102404' date='Dec 10 2007, 09:35 PM']Ouch! £155 with 24 hours to go ... maybe I won't bother then. [/quote] That price is a bit brutal for that. Also, looking at that auction & its sudden leap top such an inflated price in the last 24 hours - does anyone else get the feeling that Ebay's new "anonymous bidder" option is just a Licence To Shill?
  22. [quote name='steve-soar' post='102483' date='Dec 10 2007, 11:28 PM']KGB Music in Birkenhead. I know because I used to work there and did these very jobs. They made the fingerboard sing at the same time as being indestructible.[/quote] Any tips on how to do this & what to use? I'm going to be defretting my Peavey 5 and fancy having a shot at epoxying the board myself. Jon.
  23. Arguably the more recent Ricks are better-made, or at least more reliable. Original 4001s have a really weird truss rod system - many old necks & sets of rods got ruined through being wrongly adjusted - the neck has to be literally bent to the required position & the rods tightened to hold it in place. The current 4003 has a more conventional, stronger neck & truss setup, and is more suited to roundwound strings than its predecessor. For me, I just think it's an amazing looking, and such an evocative, distinctive-sounding bass. The 60s/early 70s 4001, with full-width crushed pearl inlays, toaster pickup & checked binding is utterly gorgeous, particularly in mapleglo or age-darkened fireglo. :wub: Jon.
  24. These are probably more general music plans than specifically bassy: Start/finish my Project Jazz - I've had all the parts for over a year. De-fret my Peavey 5 - I don't play it, don't want to sell it so making it a lined (& therefore playable by me) fretless should help justify its existence. Build headless twin-neck fretted 4/fretless 5 prog nightmare bass. Set up workshop in basement in order to do all of the above. Flog my owned-since-new (1992) , as-new, never-gigged & never-going-to-be-gigged-by-me Ibanez SR800 fretless (unlined!) - it deserves better! Use fewer hyphens. Set up recording studio/permanent rehearsal space in other half of basement. Demo two songs which are written but not recorded - one of which is already over 2 years old. Record two albums with band - the "back catalogue" material & the as-yet only half-written Concept Album. And try & find a label gullible enough to release them. Start to collate mass of useless info about JapCrap basses & guitars for future website (Rickenbugger.com ) or book which no-one will ever, ever publish. Play more gigs outside the UK. Jon.
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