fingerz

Good to see some local bass players! I've PM'd both of you so feel free to reply or give me a call anytime for a chat. Hopefully we can sort something out.. Cheers for now, Jo

I remember one of my teachers other students lending me one he was thinking of selling years ago. I borrowed it for a week. It was nicely finished but had a problem with the circuit or pickups (I knew sod all about set up back then-still learning!) and had an almost inaudible e-string. It felt great to play and was a good weight. Tone wise I really can't remember, I didn't buy it cos it had issues. You don't see them around ever these days, I'd love to have another go on one. Lets keep our eyes peeled then..

[quote name='birdy' post='522129' date='Jun 23 2009, 10:27 PM']Let's hope it does go to a good home!!! It's a cracker! Steve[/quote] + 1. Best B string in town.

[quote name='Spoonman' post='521737' date='Jun 23 2009, 02:36 PM']Hey all, Does anyone know of any decent jazz basses that have a slightly wider neck? More like on a Pbass. I played a lakland joe osborn skyline the other day and loved the sound, but I never really get on with the necks of jazz basses. Anyone know of any basses of a similar standard with the slightly wider neck? Cheers guys.[/quote] I know the 5 string J Osborn has a pretty massive neck, I would've thought the four would be just right - definitely wider than the fender at least..? There's Sadowsky etc but thats active and will sound pretty different.. Most P/J basses will have a P neck with the bridge pup - Maybe an option..

Re: 75 Re issue Jazz. I was looking for a jazz for a while and found what I was after in a 75 re-issue japanese model from mid 80's. I really rate these basses, and they won't break the bank. To my ears my one sounds as good as any vintage jazzes and didn't cost nearly as much. It has a rosewood board but I know a guy with the same bass with maple board who loves it. I recommend the 75 re issue. Jazzes tend to have loads of dead spots just in how they're designed so try to get something that seams to have minimal probs, ie play a load of them. The other good thing about Fenders of any sort is that they are always well received by people you play for. I think even if you get an MTD later and like it, you'll never tire of some good old single coil tone so you've probably made a sound choice..

Do the outputs vary much? I will have no preamp in the bass obviously... How does different winding (more or less) effect the sound? I would think that less winding is a bassier, growly tone and more is gonna be really high mid heavy but am not sure of the ins and outs...

Wicked thanks, I'll do some homework on all the above. Much appreciated

Hi there, I have just started the process of getting a passive 5 string built. I have the option of any passive pups I like to drop into it... There are a few about and wondered if anyone out there has any experience of how much they vary/is it all hype/different windings etc etc ??? Some I know of are: -Fender noiseless -Lindy Fralin -Nordstrand -DiMarzio -Delano -Stan Hinesley ...there are probably loads more...! Eek- you see my confusion! Sound wise I really just want a warm, pure tone with jazz growl. They would be J/J config... Any light you could shed on the differences (if any) between these pups I would be really grateful. Thanks alot! JP

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='469873' date='Apr 22 2009, 07:00 PM']That IS strange. Here's another one; To raise the "Perceived" tension of a B string, one common approach is to minimise the number of times the string is wrapped around the tuner post. About 1 to 1.5 times is okay. Reasoning being that string stretches along its entire length when plucked- not just between the saddle and nut (albeit not proportionately!) By reducing the overall length of the string (for a given pitch and/or tension), you make it "feel" stiffer... give it a go. Most people on here seem to be in agreement about the effect. If not the cause![/quote] IME it is more important to get the B string wrapped around the tuning post a few times so as it is right at the base/bottom of the post. This will give you a better break angle over the nut making sure the string is anchored down nicely and isolating all vibration to the part of the string you actually play on. (ie between bridge and nut). This goes for the other end too at the bridge. Creating a good break angle here will increase tension-echoing what everyone else is saying really... Check your bass is properly set up. If there is too much relief in the neck you'll find you have to lower the bridge saddles to get lower action-if it's badly set up you could be sacrificing valuable string tension. Basically, try to get the string really anchored down at both ends (Bridge/Nut). Tapered strings could help if your stuck for ideas. Tapered strings are also useful if you feel the string might be finding a sympathetic frequency in the wood (dead spot) as the thinner part of the string that runs over the bridge saddle may not find the same frequency when you play as the thick standard type. I have no experience of this but it makes sense and would be worth a try.. Good luck bro!

Have you checked out Sadowsky P/J basses? You could pick up a second hand metro version (made in Japan). They can be run passive or active and are v versatile. I think they're pretty hard to come by but be worth a look 4 sure..

Cool. Thanks for input. The tone nob capacitor is an interesting one, but I s'pose its easily tuned over time-not like its permanent like the woods would be.. Oh and Harryharold congrats on the DIY.

Anyone? ....

So, after playing just about everything I'm thinking of getting a 5 string passive 35" scale bass built. I want to keep things simple and love the honesty of passive sound... I know Lakland do a passive 5 but the body is a bit small, and seeing as so much stuff is sooo expensive off the shelf, it seems I could get all I want built for me for similar money... I know quite alot about how basses work. I wonder if anyone has any experience on achieving that vintage tone in a newly built instrument. Pickup winding etc(these would be done for me), are there different tonal ranges in tone pots? Body thickness, moisture content. I like Ash/Rosewood sound. It would be great if I could learn anything from your experience, I've never done anything like this and if I do, I need to have all the info to minimize risk of disappointment. So any tone tips? Cosmetic stuff I can do me-self! I understand not many people will have had a passive instrument built, but if you have, or know loads about it, it would be great to learn some more stuff. Thanks alot.

[quote name='niceguyhomer' post='442015' date='Mar 22 2009, 08:56 PM']Beautifully thanks mate - loving it loving it loving it It could be the one....or maybe my next Sadowsky could be the one...who knows[/quote] Good stuff. It certainly was meant to be.

Hi all, I give bass tuition from home as well as at a college in London. I'm a professional bass player and regularly teach bass chatters in my local area and beyond. Any level/style covered. I'm enthusiastic, patient and will tailor lessons to what you need to, or want to learn. As well as bass focused tuition, I teach general musicianship to make you a more rounded musician. Competitive rates too. Do get in touch on here or feel free to call me for a chat about what you are looking for. Rates: £25/hr or £15 half hr. Thanks, Jo Phillpotts BA (hons) 07719154668 www.jophillpotts.com

[quote name='Musicman20' post='441982' date='Mar 22 2009, 08:13 PM']Right, after my problems with PMT, I now have choice and also my deposit back! Im first thinking about colour for a USA 4-string Jazz. I like black, but Ive been told it can shows makrs and scratches easily. I also really like white. Especially with the scratchplates you get with white. Bear in mind i'm definitely going for a maple neck, what colours do people think look good on the new versions of the Jazz's? Also, and more importantly, where is a RELIABLE place that will sell me a new Jazz that isn't a demo/marked etc? With my problems with PMT, im very dubious about every shop now. The prices I've seen are around £829.00 on gak. Thanks[/quote] In my experience the ONLY way to be sure is to play instruments yourself and check you like them. There are variables in woods and finishes that one person can love and another can hate. Its really subjective. I know what you're saying and obviously you're fishing for a good deal but if you can afford to be patient and play loads of basses then you are much more likely to get somethin you're happy with. Hope you're happy with the next order anyway mate. Cheers.

Wow. I didn't know so many co's were owned by other/bigger manufacturers..

Interesting. The old stuff is great, and has stood the test of time. You still see old stuff pumping out the sound it was great.... The new stuff doesn't compare in sound or feel IMO. In fact, its like other manufacturers have put the effort in to really move on and give us something better and Trace have re-released the stuff that they were doing before, but with lower quality bits. What's that about eh? Anyways, to answer your question. Why did they disappear? People talk about reliability issues etc.. I have no exp of this as I never owned any.. just hear say.. I was told by a tech (cud be rubbish, just what I was told..) that management were taking too much out of the company for themselves and, although they had a full book of orders, the company went into the ground as the funds weren't there to buy materials, pay staff etc.. Nice one. Isn't that like Rover? So, sounds like they stuffed the company and lots of jobs were lost. How bad is that (if there is any truth in it that is..).. That's what I was told, I may be corrected which would be nice, cos frankly, that's just depressing! Ta