Bill Fitzmaurice

Correct. 1+/- and 2+/- refer to amp channel 1 and amp channel 2, for use with a bi-amped system. Since your speaker is mono only1+/1- are used.

Oops. But you know what I meant. 😄

It's acoustical engineering fact. Stereo only exists where the ear can directionally locate the source, which is roughly below 100Hz. This being the case low frequency content on recordings has been summed to mono since the 1970s. Home cinemas can get away with one sub for that reason, but they still work better with at least two, for smoothing of the in-room response. Home theater subs are. Most PA subs are not, as for the most part the size, and expense, is prohibitive. But it doesn't matter There's very little low B string fundamental content, it's mostly harmonics. The same is true of the E. That's why few bass cabs go flat below even 50Hz. It's not needed. But PA subs do go flat, usually to 35Hz or so, and that's the main reason why bass can sound so overblown when the guy in the FOH doesn't know what bass is supposed to sound like. It's also why using an FRFR PA cab won't give the same tone as what a large PA will, unless you also have a 35Hz capable sub.

If it was common with them it would have been reported long ago. An internal fault is always a possibility.

With passives and even some actives you always get noise when you take your hands off the strings. Most of the time it isn't much, but when you have a dodgy power situation it can be a lot. Chances are it's not the amp at fault, it's the dimmer, although some amps have less power line noise rejection than others.

To some extent that's correct. Part and parcel of tube sound is power supply sag. The reason why a tube pre doesn't give the same result as power tubes is that pre tubes don't draw enough current to give the same degree of power supply sag as power tubes. A rectifier tube will help, but still won't give the same result as tube rectification of a power tube voltage rail. The popular consensus is that Fender ruined their amps when they made the change from a rectifier tube to solid state diodes. From a technical standpoint SS diodes work better than tube, but technically better doesn't always sound better. Mesa and others addressed this with dual rectifier amps, allowing the user to choose either tube or SS rectifiers.

What makes a tube amp sound like a tube amp is the natural soft knee compression of the power tubes. Using a compressor, preferably in the effects loop, will get a SS amp close.

In the '60s Fender ruled the US and Canada. If you could afford Fender that's what you had. Traynor was one of the second tier brands, an alternate to Fender for the less well heeled. Traynor was essentially a Fender knock off and sounded just as good, or bad in the case of electric bass. Sunn was the bass rig of choice when it came along.

That depends on the speaker. If it has a tweeter and you use it put the mic close to but not directly on the tweeter axis. If not put it close to but not directly on the axis of one of the woofers.

I don't know. If the cab is always vertical there's no need for it.

The crossover frequency should remain constant. I would think that since it's intended for vertical placement that all three woofers would be full range. BTW, in the 210/410/610 all the drivers receive bass content. Half of them are low passed, so those don't receive upper mids and highs. It's what's known as an x.5 alignment. I mentioned it to Alex nearly 20 years ago as being how all 410s, 610s and 810s should be run. He obviously took my advice.

Acoustic Control Corporation 126 combo. The distortion may be the driver being pushed too hard, causing it to exceed it's mechanical limit. It also could be a sign that the driver is damaged.

It could mean the degree of attenuation, though that would be unconventional to say the least.

I'm hip, but the result on those stages will be the same no matter where the port is placed.

The port location doesn't matter. Dispersion of sound waves from ports, and from the cones as well below roughly 250Hz, is omnidirectional.

If I was Canadian I'd be looking at Traynor/Yorkville.

I would but that's out of my range for a weekend trip, which is as long as I can be away from home. If you haven't hit the Comedy or Jazz festivals in Montreal you need to add those to your list.

It's not just the area, it's the roads. In GB you can hardly drive more than 10 miles between roads. In most of Canada you can drive 100 miles between intersections, if there are roads at all. Nunavit province is mostly islands that can only be reached by boat or airplane. At 800,000 square miles it alone is ten times the size of Great Britain, yet has a population less than 40,000.

It's not bad, certainly no worse than any major American city, better than New York. When I get there the car stays parked, I either walk or take the Metro.

Big to say the least, but 90% of the population of Canada lives within 100 miles of the US border. Montreal is only a five hour drive from me; I visit there pretty much every summer. Another hour north and you're in the middle of nowhere. For the most part it's miles and miles of nothing but miles and miles.

+1. Some 90% of GB can be driven to from any other place in GB within ten hours. Some 95% of Canada cannot be driven to within ten hours from any other place in Canada. The province of Ontario alone is five times the size of Great Britain.

It would, the reason being that with the BGH-25-8 and the crossover I designed it works down to 2kHz, so you avoid the beaming issue with the woofers. The BGH25-8 also rolls off above 10kHz, where there's no useful content for electric bass. A 3.5kHz tweeter crossover makes perfect sense in a hi-fi speaker with a 6.5 or 8 inch woofer, but not in an electric bass cab.

BTW, if I was to go to the trouble of replacing the tweeter it wouldn't be with either the Peavey or Eminence APT-80. Neither go low enough to reach where the tens are beaming. This thread explains:

I found that, but it's next to worthless. You need a real data sheet, like this: https://eminence.com/collections/eminence-tweeters/products/apt_80#specifications

I can't find any real data on the Peavey Triflex to compare it with the APT-80. I found replacement diaphragms for the APT on Amazon and eBay, but that's the US sites.