Bill Fitzmaurice

Only with valve power stage. SS outputs have a minimum load, but no maximum. Valves have a maximum load, but no minimum. Many valve amps incorporate a switched output jack that will short circuit the output when nothing is plugged in, to prevent damage in that event.

Make the internal volume and port area and length the same as the original box. Wire the drivers series/parallel, use whatever type jack is on your other cab.

SS amps don't need a load, valves do.

Behringer has good designs, if not original, so for the most part they work well. But they keep the cost down by using cheap hardware.

BTW, all the pots on your amp and bass should be cleaned once in a while. Otherwise dust inside can scratch the resistive track and once you do that replacement is the only option.

It needs cleaning, with this or the equivalent. https://www.crcindustries.com/qd-electronic-cleaner/

+1. The original SVT had drivers with 1mm xmax. That's why it took sixteen of them to handle the SVT head. You can find ads from 1969 showing the SVT head with two SVT 810 cabs. As driver technology improved the need for that many drivers lessened. Today you can find tens that are the equal of eight of the original SVT drivers.

Without specs you can't model the result to compare them. However, at 1.8mm xmax the Delta 10B (B stands for 16 ohm) was not a bass driver. It was intended for PA tops that weren't run much below 100 Hz.

Being closer to the floor doesn't attenuate highs, it just makes them harder to hear, being more directional than low frequencies. You get the best results with the cab aimed at your head.

By and large 50Hz tuning will give the best results with the average driver. Premium drivers may work better with 40-45 Hz tuning, but these aren't premium.

The main issue with the Beta 10 isn't tone, it's the paltry 3mm xmax. That limits it mechanically to 30 watts or so. That wasn't so bad when it came out some 30 years ago, but it's not up to today's standards. This also could have been built on the BP102 motor, where xmax is a far better 6.2mm. No way of knowing, really, unless you have a friend with a Klippel analyzer.

Eminence generally will not give out specs on OEM drivers. Chances are that's a 16 ohm version of the Beta 10. Measuring them yourself isn't difficult, but you need the necessary gear.

-3 to -6dB is a reasonable target, but the only way to know if you're hitting that target is if your console has individual channel level meters.

That G-K seems a reasonable option, especially as the enclosure isn't ridiculously small. One can't get decent lows from a tiny box for the same reason that basses don't have a 45cm scale length.

I wouldn't consider anything with smaller than an eight inch driver. Sure, you could use fives...if there are at least four of them, which pushes the price up, as four fives cost a lot more than one eight. Even an eight is questionable, as manufacturers don't load premium eight inch drivers into inexpensive combos. For what you'd pay for a combo with a premium eight, like a Trace ELF 1x8, you could get a better result with a much less expensive combo loaded with a middle of the road ten.

Where driving is concerned the Quebecois are only slightly better in following the rules of the road than the Italians. But in the great Commonwealth of Massachusetts one has to fail an IQ test to get a drivers license. 🤪

I've done that since my first desk with that capability, a Yamaha 01v, in 1998.

Old Peaveys had no trouble with 2 ohms. Back in the days of discreet transistor output stages it was easy to go to 2 ohms, you just used more transistors to increase the current capacity. It's not quite that simple with Class D modules. Sure, they can do it, but it's going to up the cost. However, note that the minimum impedance load tends to be rated at full power. You can run at 2 ohms at 1/4 power and keep the current demand within spec. But who's going to advertise a 2 ohm capable amp at 250 watts compared to 4 ohm capable at 1,000 watts? 😲

Not all all. The limit on the Interstate north of Concord is 70/112, so they don't bat an eye if you're doing 80/129. If you want to see nuts try the New Jersey Turnpike. 90/145 is common, and most of the cars you see doing that are junkers that probably aren't safe at half that speed. And if you've ever driven in Quebec you know that the speed limits there are just suggestions that are usually ignored.

My speedometer goes to 260 KPH, and as it's a BMW it can reach that. That doesn't mean I have to drive that fast. 130 KPH is quite sufficient. Just because you have a 500w amp doesn't mean you'll ever use that much power. If you were to measure it you'd find that you seldom go over 50w. That's a good thing, as the majority of speakers will only handle at best half their thermal rating before exceeding their mechanical limit. As for peak ratings those are marketing piffle only worthy of being ignored.

That brings up a good story. There's no bigger lie in audio than that about high end cables making any difference. That doesn't stop audiophools from believing anything and everything. Going back a while Peter Walker was introducing his latest Quad speaker model at a show for the audio press at a hotel in London. When he got ready to set it up he realized that he'd forgotten to bring speaker cables. The drive back to Huntingdon would have taken too long, so he found a local hardware store and bought what he needed. The speakers got rave reviews, of course, but more than a few of the reporters noticed that the cables were orange, and assumed there must have been something special about them. At the press conference after the demonstration one reporter asked Peter what the brand of these cables was that surely had an influence on the purity of the sound. To which Peter replied "Why, Black and Decker!"

I'd only take a second cab to put it on the ground aimed toward the drummer so he can hear the mids and highs, with the other atop it for myself and the audience.

They use 6 ohm drivers in the 6x cab, a pair of them in series would explain the 12 ohm option. But you can't wire them to get 4 ohms from a 2x, only from the 6x.

The shipping should be moot as I'd want to make sure the buggering wasn't just cosmetic.

Give them a low ball offer then redo the Tolex yourself. I try before buying.