whizzzy

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Mike bought a bass from me. Had a good old bass related chinwag. Great guy to deal with, highly recommended and I can only echo the comments made in the previous post.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Thanks Mike.[/font][/color]

Paddy's a top Basschatter. Deal with confidence. Sold him an amp head, easy, no messing about, just like it should be. Thanks again Paddy

Another thing to check is the flexible wiring between the chassis of the speaker and the cone. Sometimes they are situated at such an angle where they rattle when the cone is moving. Gently move the two wires where they connect to the terminal post or tag strip by about 3 - 4mm and see if this resolves the problem.

Just bought a Yamaha Bass from Mike,no problems at all, next day delivery, easy deal, recomended BC'er - Thanks Mike

[font=verdana,geneva,sans-serif][size=3]Sold a headphone amp to Julien, paid very quickly, great to deal with, highly recommended. Many thanks.[/size][/font]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Vindi bought a pair of monitor cabs from me. Drove down as promised and had a good old bass related chinwag. Great guy to deal with, highly recommended and I can only echo the comments made in previous posts.[/font][/color]

For anyone who missed this first time around it was re-screened on Friday night on BBC4. It's now on iPlayer [url="http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00wbp64/Arena_Dave_Brubeck_In_His_Own_Sweet_Way/"]http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00wbp64/Arena_Dave_Brubeck_In_His_Own_Sweet_Way/[/url] Just sheer brilliance from Dave Brubeck even in his 90's but also from the other members of the quartet. It's quite a long watch at 1:30 but well worth it. Even if you don't have time / inclination to watch all of it at least check out the snipit on Eugene Wright at 33:55 - so fluid and effortless. Just amazing.

Just done a very smooth deal with Sean.Very quick and hassle free and posted out the next day. Top person to do business with. Thanks Sean.

Just done a very smooth deal with Simon.Very quick and hassle free and posted out the next day. Top person to do business with. Thanks Simon.

I've not used the i-color 3 wash lights personally (I've used NJD Spectres which are quite similar) but I think that you may still be better off perservering with those rather than spending money on low cost LED lighting. From a quick bit of research on Google it looks like the i-colour 3 uses 3 x 500W K1 lamps and if all lamps are full on this means that you will be drawing about 6.5 amps in power. Double that it you have a pair and you are up to 13 amps and so if you are connecting these to one power socket (plus any amps and other kit which may be plugged in) then no wonder the plug / socket is getting warm!! It looks like the i-color 4 however is fitted with 3 x 300W lamps and so this brings the power down to about 4 amps per unit (or 8 amps if you are running a pair) and so this gives you a little more reserve if everything is running full tilt plus other kit which may be connected. From looking around it seems that a K9 lamp is available in 300W form so it could be worth investigating if you can downrate the 500W lamps you have in the units down to 300W. There will be a slight noticable difference if you A - B them but nothing to worry about. There are plenty of suppliers on the web so Google is your friend. Another tip when using any sort of lamp as destinct from LED lights is to give them 10 - 15 mins or so to cool down before moving them, also don't put them on top of speaker cabs as excessive vibration will shorten the lamp life when they are hot. Also when bringing them into a warm / humid room leave them for 20 - 30 mins if possible to come up to room temperature before switching them on. In other words lighting is the last kit to set up and the last kit to pack away. Simple precautions like this can extend the lamp life considerably. When positioning lights on stage they need to be in front of the band, putting them behind the band puts most of you in the shade and so loose the impact of the lighting. Try and get them up on stands as well as the coverage and effect will be greater however this is not always possible if you've tucked away in the corner of the local pub! If the venue has a low ceiling and is white or a light colour then one effective solution is to bounce the light off the ceiling into the stage area. LED lighting has its place but unless you spending serious money on the fittings then you get what you pay for IMHO and low cost fittings become cheesy 'disco-dave' eye candy rather then serving the useful function of lighting up the band. "Why is it always left to the bass player to do the lights?!" - dunno - but I've often tried to work that one out as well

I think you may struggle to find the exact pattern of Tolex / Vynide that Trace used but Blue Aran have something here which may suit - [url="http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=ADH0154&browsemode=category"]http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=ADH0154&browsemode=category[/url]

I've found the best way to repair this is to use some heat and then PVA wood glue. Use something like a hair-dryer to soften the tolex (or better still sit the cab in front of a fan heater for a short while so that the wooden cab retains some heat). Then apply a reasonable amount of PVA under the tear, leave it for 5 mins or so then stick the torn piece back into place smoothing it out from the joined piece to the end of the tear. A lot of the PVA will be squeezed out so use a damp rag to clean it off. Don't worry that you can see some of the white PVA at this stage as when it dries you will hardly see it. Use a dry cloth to clean off any moisture and then use some insulation or gaffa tape to stick over the tear and keep it in place. Leave it overnight before removing the tape to give the PVA plenty of time to dry and harden off. During the whole process try and keep the tolex warm as this will keep it soft and will mould back to the surface of the cab much better.

If you have a B & Q near you you could try there as our local store sometimes has H05 RN-F in stock. H05 is quite similar to H07 but with a lower voltage rating (300/500V as opposed to 450/700V) so well within the scope of any single phase mains voltages here in the UK. Be sure you get the correct power rating for your needs though as it comes in different sizes.

I think it is H07 RN-F you are refering to - [url="http://www.h07rnfcable.co.uk/"]http://www.h07rnfcable.co.uk/[/url] It's used a lot in the professional lighting industry.

If the overall condition of the amp is good then if it were me I would probably go for the repair with Fender / Genz. A quick search on Google is not coming up with either repairer's or stockist of spares so even if you are able to locate a friendly amp technician it is unlikely that he will be able to get spares unless the power module can be repaired down to component level. Working on switched mode power supplies can be quite tricky and unless you have comprehensive circuit diagrams and service information then they can be difficult to diagnose and fault locate. This is probably why Fender / Genz have simply quoted you to replace the complete module. It depends on how friendly the UK service agents are as to releasing circuit diagram and other technical information and if they don't then even someone who repairs amps is going to have a bit of a challenge on his hands. Also if Fender / Genz do carry out the repair then hopefully you will get 6 or even 12 months warranty on the repair work. Doing the maths, if you have your unit repaired by Fender / Genz then it will still be cheaper that buying even a used GB 9.0. It's a bitter pill to swallow but as long as you learn from your mistake then at least something positive has come out of this. A final though, it may just be worth giving Mark at Bass Direct a quick call as he may be able to suggest other alternatives and he is only 1 or 2 junctions up the M40 motorway from you. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

I've had one of these in my amp rack for several years now and it has been totally reliable. There is a forum for dBX products and specifically for the Drive Rack which can be found here [url="http://www.dbxpro.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=70"]http://www.dbxpro.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=70[/url] Mine is now being used as a glorified active crossover however but as there are specific roll off frequencies and soft compression needed for my system then it does exactly what I need it to. The important thing is to ensure that the DriveRack is set up correctly from the outset and is exactly matched to the technical specifications of your amps and speakers. If you're really lucky you may find that the settings for the Mackie cabs that you are running are already pre-programmed in the unit and then it will simplify the task quite a bit. If the settings are not pre-programmed then allow yourself a good few hours to sort this out - certainly it is not the sort of thing that you should be trying to do at a gig. The graphic EQ is probably one of least useful features of the system as it is quite a faff to call up the specific 'sliders' and adjust them. I still use a conventional 31 band graphic for this as I find it much quicker and straight forward to use. The real time analyser is also clever but in practice it is far simpler and quicker to set up your PA with your ears rather than using pink noise to EQ the room (the other fact is that the room eq will change significantly when you get a crowd of people in the room and then it will not be practical to start using the RTA to make further adjustments) The feedback eliminator is reasonably useful, especially if don't have a dedicated sound engineer and have to rely on one of the band members to keep things in check on the fly. Remember though that this is not a substitute for setting up a system correctly in the first place and should only be relied upon as a final line of defense. Another tip is to store two complete set-ups, one with the tops and subs and then a second with tops running full range. This way whey you end up at those venues where you don't need your subs then just run the tops as a full range system. Dial up the setting on the DriveRack and away you go. Not sure how this is going to save you set-up time though as if anything if your speakers are active then you will end up running more cabling however the noticeable gains that hear in sound quality will certainly outweigh the negatives.

Most commerical manufacturers rivet them but I prefer to use M6 bolts through the side of the case. Get some bolts with low profile heads and they look fine - use a spot of black paint on them if you are using hex board. Another useful tip is to invest in a lazy tongs riveter. Loads available on ebay from a tenner upwards. These make much lighter work than using a conventional pop rivet gun - believe me after you have set about 100 x 5mm pop rivets you will consider it money well spent!