bass_ferret

I have always taken the output limit light as a warning rather than a target One of the reasons for the popularity of modern basses with a bright sound is they dont suck up all your watts with bottom end so you dont need to be so loud to hear what you are playing. I dont get moaned at for being too loud half as much as I used to since I went for more hi-fi amps and basses

Is it the input or output clip light that is coming on? The input light will just drive the valve and the output light means the limiter is kicking in. It wont actually damage the amp but it may affect the sound. I do think you maybe need another cab. Thats why I got the NeoX rather than the shuttle cabs. As for the ungrateful c**ts, tell them they can supply the rig next time

Yes I use a Shuttle 6.0 and 2 NeoX112T cabs. Sometimes I only plug the top cab in. I like it a lot. Given the cabs you are considering then a trip to Bass Direct may be in order. The NeoX and Berg HT do sound very different and I cant say which you would prefer. The NeoX is much lighter despite what the specs say. I have not tried the Berg AE cabs.

I made a list of all the lightweight cabs over on finnbass while I was punished for being a naughty boy. IIRC the lightest 1x15 is the Tecamp. Lightweight 2x15 is about as likely as a lightweight 8x10

Not done it myself but no reason why not.

There is usually one in surrey september time.

I did have bad GAS when I first saw one but I convinced myself the cabs were too small for the drivers crammed in them.

POS - Piece Of sh*t

[quote name='dood' post='411927' date='Feb 17 2009, 12:53 PM']I like the idea of having a tri-amped box that essentially has a powered sub in.. something like these babies that have been talked about before.. [url="http://forgebass.com/products_4108enclosure.html"]http://forgebass.com/products_4108enclosure.html[/url] In my case, I would take my Line 6 pre and run it straight into the active cabinet.. no head required.[/quote] 125lbs! Your back getting better?

[quote name='johnnylager' post='411733' date='Feb 17 2009, 09:46 AM']Indeed, I think yer Genz is class D, but yer Markie is AB with SMPS. What I can say without hesitation is that a million of them weigh less than a Boogie Bass 400+. Is that use Wiki, rather than [i][b]the[/b][/i] Wiki? [/quote] There is the wiki, and then there is the basschat wiki. Its amazing what you can find with google But then I did lnow what to look for

[url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply"]Switch Mode Power Supply[/url] [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switching_amplifier"]Class D Amplifier[/url] Both very similar but some Class AB amps still have SMPS.

Still waiting for you to tell us what the 8x10 is. ABM? MAG? SVT? POS?

Whether 2 4x10's would be better is entirely dependant on the cabs. Unfortunately the OP does not say what the 8x10 is. 2 4ohm 4x10's will take full beans from the amp and the MAG115 is £199 from the Gallery. I call that cheap.

[quote name='Jamesk86' post='411152' date='Feb 16 2009, 02:47 PM']If you get a CAB with a built in corss-over then you can hook that upto the 8x10 and push more power through that rig. For ideas you can look at the ashdown MAG 1x15 great for low end and should work nicely with the ABM900, or you can look at picking up a 2x10 to slide in under neath and give you that extra clarity! but thats just my two pence worth!![/quote] What a great idea. Adding a cheap and nasty cab to what is probably a top of the range rig. Sell the 8x10 and run 2 4x10 cabs.

[url="http://www.bassguitarmagazine.com/basslife/forums/"]New BGM forum[/url]

I have been using their grounds for years. Me like.

Like Nik says I have strung my KSD BEAD and nobody died! I must admit I have not played it enough to know whether its a good idea. We play a lot of songs tuned down a tone so I have one bass in regular and my fretless tuned DGCF but the fretless does not sound right on some of the songs (the ones where I sing and drift out of tune ) We dont practice enough for me to try the BEAD bass on lots of songs and the detuned songs change every gig - singers eh! Last gig he played the detuned guitar all night!

Funny thing GK have changed their website and you cant get the specs of the cabs any more. Anyway, rather than just asking what you should buy and trying to pick out the answer from the loads of conflicting recommendations you will get, you would be better off trying stuff to decide what you like and learning about stuff, like loudness is not actually measured in watts. Lots of info on the basschat wiki. Anyway - looking at the manual for the RBH series of cabs not only is the 410 3dB louder than the 115 but also goes deeper (31Hz vs 40Hz). So why would you want to add a 115??? There does not appear to be a manual for the RBX cabs.

What is the sensitivity of the cabs? Why do you think you need a 4x10 and 1x15?

I would say they are OK for anything as the valve is just so controllable but they do tend to the modern hi-fi sound. Made in China though.

Nobody said it would sound bad. What we have said (ad nauseum) is the results are un-predictable. Whereas the result of adding an identical cab to your rig is predicatable. So if you are buying blind, or even if you have a low volume demo in a shop, dont be surprised if the results are not what you expected. And that is assuming you can get far enough away from the rig to know what it really sounds like, as a lot of venues make you stand right in front of your rig so you can only hear the top cab anyway.

Robbie at RM Basses is the UK distributor for Dr Bass cabs, but this is something completely different

There are lots of threads on this - some of them quite hot. If you have 2 cabs the same you will always get the sum of the parts and probably then some because the cabs will couple acoustically. If you have different cabs then you may not get the sum of the parts because the cabs may be out of phase at some frequencies.

If you can afford it try the EBS Microbass II

Heavy Weather yes, the Jaco Pastorius CD no. I have tried but it does nothing for me.