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mrbacco

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Everything posted by mrbacco

  1. It's still a great beauty this one! Good luck !!!
  2. This is another bass that has been in my dreams for a looong time (together with the Scheter Model T) .... If only I had the money for it (and I was in Great Britain) I would take it away in a blink of an eye!! Good luck with the sale !
  3. I really like the one, it is a very clean simple and accurate, especially the back control cover which has the same veneer of the body ... it is something I am planning to do with my next build ... not at your level thou! 🙂
  4. gorgeous machine there!
  5. ok then I apologize for the "fake news" I gave ... sorry
  6. folks, as promised I am attaching here the picture of the finished work. A few words for your perusal: I tried the solution suggested by @PaulThePlug, which was to cut around the P bass shape of a pickguard: I did that, and, OMG, I am not posting the picture of the failure and the millions of bits of plastic ( @Richard R you were 110% right 🙂!!! ) following the smashed of it due to my heavy cutting I used a small hand rotor, but unfortunately it slipped away in the last bit causing the break of the part). I then moved to plan B. I bought these rings, on amazon, for a 10eur pack of 2. Steel and chromed. Same as the control and the bridge. Then I measured and measured, and measured and then cut the extra parts lined up with the bottom of the upper pickup and the top of the bottom pickup, and then I screw the 2 things around the pickups. As I said before, it is a cheap bass this one, because I am experimenting, but at least it does what I wanted and also it covers a bit the different wood that I used to fill the cable cavity. Sounds also quite well (even if I play it 🙂 ). I had to increase a bit the action for the G strings as the strings buzz was persistent and now it's a lot better and close to 0%. Thanks everyone for the support and all the suggestions!
  7. I thought about the thin headstock reason, but I was not sure, I did not think about neck dive, thanks for the answer!
  8. Why not 3R+3L pegs+tuners on the head? Any tech reason behind your choice?
  9. I like the idea of combining the different "brands" under the same umbrella 🙂 !
  10. Agree! Everytime I look at something on this forum, it is an explosion of creativity, knowledge and skills! Thanks for sharing!
  11. this is a thing of beauty !! congratulations to the builder/luthier!
  12. Yes, 100% right you were, thanks. Fixing it now! Thank you! 🙂
  13. Thanks for the reply here, yeah I tried to replicate the similar setup I have on my Squier active jazz deluxe which has a perfectly straight neck and low action, but no success ... Thanks! The practice would be very welcome, the invest in tools I am not allowed for October .. hahaha 🙂
  14. Also ... I noticed that, despite having tuned the truss rod, I still get some fret buzz at the 11th frets for A, D and G strings. Cannot find the right setup. What am I doing wrong here? Am I adjusting the truss rod too much? Thanks! Action seems not as low as I like it also.
  15. Thanks, I will be looking at that issue tomorrow and let you know. 🙂
  16. I just have to check the volume again, as for some reasons it does not work, it stays at the max the whole time! Those pickups are not the best, I maybe will try to swap them in the future for some good ones (feel free to send any offer if you have any on sale). Also, I had a bit of a fight with the action adjustment and the truss rod, so I will have to get back to that now too!
  17. So, I put the strings on, they seem to be spot on, I also checked with my lovely carpenter level tool that I use for all the wood work, and it was right above the saddles, sorry I did not take the picture, but the final is below with a lovely Irish Blue Sky in the background!
  18. And, for a change, a different background .. it's coming alive, I finished the mounting of the second hand neck and bridge and oiled the body and the head . It looks like a bass guitar, does it? One other question, sorry: what is the best way to check if the neck is mounted properly and is 90 degrees to the body pocket and in the right position? Take into consideration I don't had many bass making specific tools, just a few carpenters focussed .
  19. thanks, I was asking also because in the red tele I made before I put the bridge a few mm too far down, so the saddles are almost all moved up for the intonation, but it is not a big issue ... Thanks!!! 🙂
  20. folks one quick question, hope you don't mind: might be a rookie question still, so I apologize in advance if it's redundant or useless: I am in the process of mounting the bridge: in the first P bass I made I calculated 864mm from nut to the middle of the bridge to give space for intonation: I am planning to the same here. Is this the correct way to mount the bridge or should I look for more or others things that I am ignoring now? Thanks, please see image on the right
  21. Hey there! Between all my woodwork and a bit of playing, I was looking, recently, at one of my first loves: the Schecter Model T bass. I never played it, and I am not looking at buying it ( ... just yet ...). I read a few different reviews online: some say it's bad others it's good ... not sure why such a big difference in opinions? I like the look, the old style feature wood combined with P+J pickups. But, as I said, never tried. Is it worth? What do you guys think of the overall bass and sound? Cheers https://www.thomann.de/ie/schecter_model_t_session_4_ans.htm
  22. I am also exploring this solution now, following @PaulThePlug suggestion (thanks @PaulThePlug!!!): I found this low cost plastic based mirror effect pickguard on amazon (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KNYU296/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), that could resemble the same effect of the chrome control plate. I will just need to carefully cut it and screw it on the body. Let me think on it!!
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