Subthumper

No specs other than its a 4x10 and has a power rating like a car stereo. Be nice to see some sort of frequency response, RMS power handling etc.

Join a louder band and then see which amp cuts it best.

Btw the switch button will need some carefully drilling to get the shaft to fit the back properly.

I just repaired an old gp7 with the same problem. Maplins do a range of Flat push to make switches that are a pretty good match for the originals. Needs the whole front dismantling to get to them and a bit of creative soldering to m make them fit. If you can't solder get it done by a tech.

As the title suggests I'm on a mission to find a neo driver suitable for sealed cab. Don't want to get too into the sealed vs ported debate but it's for using with a valve head. Ideally it's fora 2x15 plus some sort of midrange/ tweeter. I've been using my old diy ported cabs pretty successfully but notice the amp starts to unhinge a bit at high volume a nd low tuning and I'm sure it's the speaker unloading at below cab/port tuning frequency which is upsetting the valve amp. The idea is also.to make the cab lightweight too as I've been hauling my heavy old cabs for too long. Any thoughts folks? Any advice gratefully received. Cheers Just

That looks like a very old amp. As a tech I would say it's probably cheaper to buy a second hand amp that does what you want than to.mess about trying to modify this to do what you want. There is so much good cheap gear out there that no one wants I'm almost surprised anyone buys anything new at the moment.

Ha. I've got to teach this tablet swearing and slang or it just assumes the next best thing. Doddle!!!! There done. Really clever things are no good to me. Probably why I use valve stuff. Mind you I found some interesting class d modules on the Hypex electronics website. Not too pricey if you want to put together a mono amp unit or even an active cab. With neo diversions cab design you could easily realise a 400w beast in a high l y portable l e unit that would seriously rock.

Or even a doodle.

Wouldn't a lightweight active cab be the answer? Something like a barefaced with a class d module in. Just hook up the mains and your signal input. Would be a doodle.

It's amazing how many singers don't seem to have a clue how to use the tools of their trade...mics, mixing desks /pa systems, monitor , fx etc and it always left to one of the band. If you turned up to play as a bassist or guitarist with as little idea of how your instrument and amp worked you'd be sacked from the band yet singers often seem to have the approach that it's someone else's job. Get your singer to watch some pro's at work and the Mic technique will be glaringly obvious. There's all ways going to be rooms you play that are a pain soundwise but knowing how the pa works and listening goes a long way. The other question is how loud is your band. If your too loud for the room then nothing is going to stop feedback whilst trying to get vocals louder than the band...not even the biggest and best pa. Another cause of feedback is too much reverb, which is another bone of contention with singers...they always want everything swimming in it and absolutely no reverb in the monitors. But most important get her to sing INTO the Mic.

Hi, I've been attempting to get my band out of the grind and low pay of pub gigs and attempting to get to play clubs, events and parties but NOT WEDDINGS. I've been trawling the net for agents and the same scenario seems to be commonplace, ie you call them and they tell you to fill in the email contact form on their website which is followed by ....nothing. Even when you do speak to someone they won't commit to any kind of answer, even to say that your not what they want, which would be fine. Venues are equally useless even when you tell them you've been asked back to every venue you've played. We have a good website and good feedback from happy venues. Is it my approach that's wrong or does every band get the same treatment? I would be interested to hear opinions and other people's experiences. Cheers Just

Don't know about the cab but that looks like H/H drivers in there. Worth researching the cab, some of . The park stuff is worth bucks.

Hi, welcome to the world of valves. The main cause of valve failure is moving them about and thrashing them before they warm up properly. Obviously you have to move it but try and avoid knocks and drops and Make sure it's got decent rubber feet to isolate it from vibration when the car and from the speaker cab. Always let the amp warm up for at least three minutes, five or more is better as it gets the temperature evenly distributed throughout the valves glass envelope. It also allows the bias voltages to fully stabilize. I've worked on lots of different amps and built three, and all of them take at least three minutes to stabilize. Operating the amp before this has happened results in the power valves running too hot u.til the bias voltage comes up. The other thing to do is to let the amp cool down before you move it. And don't forget to make sure the impedance is correctly matched to the speaker. I use a valve amp all the time but I don't carry spare valves, it's easier, quicker and less stressful to have a spare head, in my case a Hartke 3500. I've only needed it once in the last four years. Follow this and you should have many years of valve fun. Cheers Just

Sounds like it's either the Jack socket shorting the battery negative to ground, possibly to the cavity screening, or it has ben wired wrong effectively leaving the pre amp switched on all the time. I made exactly this mistake myself when wiring up one of my basses.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1391413891' post='2356729'] It probably uses some sort of Auxetophone [url="http://www.douglas-self.com/MUSEUM/COMMS/auxetophone/auxetoph.htm#aux"]http://www.douglas-s...uxetoph.htm#aux[/url] invented by Charles Parsons who invented the steam turbine. [/quote] There was a similar system made for amplifying double basses. The valve was operated by a solid rod attached to the bridge of the bass. The horn looked like a foghorn and was about five or six feet across. Made moving an 8x10 Look easy.

Get it serviced, sounds like a bad joint/fx loop problem, loose component or dirt in the pots. A good tech should be able to sort this.

Good article. It's difficult to write something that appeals to both ends of the spectrum of understanding without seeming dumbed down or condescending. I have to explain this stuff to muso's on an almost daily basis. Some want to know, some want you to say what they want to hear, some don't want know and some simply can't understand no matter how it's explained. It's hard work and you've done a good job.

At that price it sort becomes an executive toy.

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1390938498' post='2351582'] That's true, but it's the same high levels of integration and production techniques that have brought us affordable computers, smartphones and the like. [/quote] All of which has a lifespan of about five years, either because it breaks down and can't be repaired or becomes obsolete. I'm sticking with my valve head, best sound I ever had. And I can repair and modify it at will.

The other downside no one has mentioned about class D is that they are very difficult to repair, especially when combined with modern production techniques, lead free solder and surface mount components. It's certainly the kind of thing I would turn away from my worshop. I don't think you'll be seeing vintage ones in years to come.

As the tittle suggests is anyone using these? Was wondering what they were like and what drivers people are using. Was also wondering what if anyone's using or has used them with a valve head. And one last question, does anyone know if they'll work with a JBL 2226h? If the opinions are good I'm considering using two with my 200w valve head. Cheers Just.

What part does it need? Might be something you can get through cpc or RS. I'm assuming your fixing it yourself and you know what's,wrong with it. I believe the spares dealer and authorised repairer in the UK for GK is Real Electronics, though they are exepensive. You might be able to find a local tech who has split one for spares. Good luck.

Yeah pretty much as most people have said, adding a jazz pup doesn't make it sound like a jazz bass. Mine doesn't. So you have the right to get another bass...how awfull.

I kinda knew this would be opening a can of contradictory worms.

That saved a lot of time, hard work and disappointment. Will have to look elsewhere for inspiration in search for something different. Thanks again Bill.