Subthumper

Check that the amp is compatible to take el34s. It could require modification to do so and also el34's require more current to drive the heaters (extra 0.6amp each, which is a total of 7.2amps!) Also the bias would need to be adjusted too. Check first or you could seriously damage the amp. Personally I'd go for kt77's-bigger bottom end and cleaner highs. Good luck cheers Just

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1329152978' post='1537975'] Keep being tempted by those in Maplins, for the standby. [/quote] Allready done it on mine Ollie.

Lots!

Hi all, as the tittle suggests I'm keen to know what these amps are like, both in sound and flexibility. Do they sound like anything else and how much of a range of tones is available? Does anyone have either the 4xKT88 or the 6X EL34 or even both and is there much difference? A lot of questions I know but have to be sure of these things before making a decision. Thanks for reading Cheers Just

Hi, have you recently put it in a different rack case or put other rack gear on top of the amp? I'm wondering if the amp is getting sufficient air to all of the internals. From the pics I've seen it draws air in from the top of the case and out the back of the amp. Its a small size amp putting out a lot of power so needs plenty of air to all the different parts. If this is the case then your tech might not be creating the conditions in the workshop that you have on stage so its not getting too hot. At a guess I'd say there's a component in the pre amp that's overheating and giving a dc output ( ic or a cap methinks ) causing your low frequency speaker movements and eq overload led's to light up. As techie myself thats just not the kind of thing you want to try to find, however it could be worth trying to isolate it to pre or power amp by using it at a gig or rehearsal with a separate pre amp driving into the power amp in and seeing if the problem occurs. This will least give the tech guy a nod in the right direction. Might be worth trawling the net for any threads relating to the problem as it could be a common fault with that early model and you might also find the solution. Good luck Cheers Just

Can anyone tell me where I can get replacement power sockets for boss pedals? I've looked all over but never found quite the right one. Cheers Just

GK mb150....Horrible amp to work on, vile , evil, nasty. I think I gave up on it.

I would suspect its either the bridge rectifier, or the power transistors. You will need to take it to a techie to find out for sure. If it was blowing the mains fuse then I'd suspect the transformer. Either way its gonna be more than you paid for it unless you have a techie friend who will fix it for beers plus the cost of components. Good luck Cheers Just

[quote name='Johnston' post='1367932' date='Sep 9 2011, 06:15 PM'][url="http://www.cripeguitars.com/kimockoncripe.html"]http://www.cripeguitars.com/kimockoncripe.html[/url][/quote] Oooh very interesting, maybe I'll get something made out of this yet. Different is good.

AAAAArrrrrggggghhhhh I took it to a luthier who has confirmed its not mahogany but in fact teak, which is apparently no good for making guitars. So its either gonna be a chair or a part of a boat. Thanks to everyone for their contributions and double entandres. Cheers Just

[quote name='JPJ' post='1363168' date='Sep 5 2011, 06:02 PM']I have no idea of value but would be interested in acquiring this. Are there any shakes or cracks in the wood? Also, do you have any pictures to further tempt me with?[/quote] It has no cracks or shakes. On further inspection its actually two pieces glued (very well) together approximately 50/50 lengthways. I'll get to work on some pics.

Hi all, I was'nt sure where to put this but as the title suggests I want to know what the value of a piece of timber is. I have been given a piece of mahogany that has been rested for about 25 years and measures approx 2'6" x 6' x 2". It is quite dark and nicely figured.(oh and bloody heavy) I'll probably never get time to make anything out of it so I was angling on either selling it or exchanging it for something I need or can use. So if any of you luthier types could give me an approximate ballpark value I would be most appreciative. Cheers Just

[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' post='1358232' date='Aug 31 2011, 10:57 PM']I have a '59 Tweed Bassman, that i am looking to replace the plastic dogbone handle with a leather handle. I've bought two of these now, after checking the details, and they hav eboth been wrong when they arrived. The issue is the fixing screw hole centres on the holding bracket (See pic below), I cant seem to find brackets with correct, wider, spacing. They must exist surely??? Anybody seen this before, or know where to get wider holding brackets? I obviously dont want to add extra holes to the top of the tweed casing. Thanks [attachment=88426:bassman_handle.JPG][/quote] Hi.have a look on www.hotroxuk.com they've got quite a good selection of amp parts for fenders. They got lots of other goodie too so watch for gas. Cheers Just

If it keeps blowing the valves then I'd recomend getting the reverb transformer checked out along with the reverb tank. There could be a breakdown in the windings causing a short that is too much of a load on the driver valve. The circuit is basically a single ended amp that drives the reverb springline and will have the same effect on the valve as a bad speaker load on an amp. Best get these checked by a tech than keep throwing valves at it. Good luck Cheers Just

[quote name='4 Strings' post='1299030' date='Jul 10 2011, 03:34 PM']Hi, hope someone can help my lad. Hartke HA3500, when plugged into a speaker gives out a whistling noise from the speaker, but no sound from a bass if plugged in, just the whistle. Tried different leads, speakers etc, just happens when plugged into a cabinet regardless of anything in the input. (Fortunately there was another amp at his gig but this was a sudden thing, ok in the afternoon, whistling in the evening). I wondered if this was a typical symptom for something? Not the valve as it still whistles without it. It starts after the relay(?) has clicked inside releasing the output. Any ideas anyone? All gratefully received as he hasn't the money to leave it at our local amp man. Cheers[/quote] Hi, it sounds like you definitely have a problem in the amp or the pre amp. You can isolate the two by putting a jack into the fx send. If the noise stops its somewhere in the pre amp. If it doesent its the power amp. Either way it needs looking at by someone who knows how to trace through a circuit and find the individual components or connections that are responsible. I have a copy of the schematic if you know someone who can look it over so PM me and I'll email it. Dont let someone "have a go at it" or the amp tech who finally gets to fix it could end up with a real headache. I've had one of these amps for 13 years and no such problem but worth getting them serviced because the fan sucks in a lot of dust which attracts moisture and causes bad contacts, corrosion, bad sound and crackly pots and sockets. (any amp with a fan). Good luck Cheers Just

[quote name='Mikeg' post='1292733' date='Jul 4 2011, 09:24 PM']Candy aple red with matching headstock, MM humbucker at bridge. Job done [/quote] +1 defo the mm pickup...to have the P bass and mm in one bass would be uber cool.

[quote name='maddude16' post='678317' date='Dec 8 2009, 08:06 PM']my gp7 (with the luminating front panel) has just started to hum realllllly loud when turned on. transformer?[/quote] Assuming yours isnt one of the peavey era trace's and was made before that. Quite often the solder joints that connect the smoothing caps to the pcb (poweramp board) give out due to the amount of mechanical stress put on them as its usually the only thing holding it to the board as the glue they use gives out after years of use and heat. Open the amp up and see if the capacitors ( about the size of a c cell battery) are wobbly on the board at the back of the amp. If they are its a sure bet that this is the problem.If it is not this then it could be a failed smoothing capacitor, in which case have them all replaced. The board is only held in by four bolts /screws and the resoldering would only take a few minutes. If your not sure about doing this find a good tech and he should have it sorted in no time. Otherwise it sounds like there's an earth gone astray somewhere. If your near bristol give me a shout, I can sort this. Good luck Cheers Just

Dont forget to make sure the old ones are discharged. I promise you it really really hurts. Never trust a capicitor..even a small one.

[quote name='dood' post='1272251' date='Jun 16 2011, 11:26 PM']Hi, welcome to the forum! Well the quick answer for you to get a more powerful amp with the same sound would be to upgrade to the Hartke HA3500. (350w) or the Hartke HA5500C (500w). Both fantastic amps from the same model series and sharing the same preamplifier.[/quote] +1 Had a HA3500 for about last 13 years from new. Used with a decent set of speakers they're a great amp for just about any situation. Dont think I've ever run out of steam. Worth putting a decent valve in the pre amp as the standard ones are only cheap chinese made ones. Cheers Just

[quote name='Pentode' post='1269576' date='Jun 15 2011, 06:30 AM']Ooooo.... Is this Deoxit stuff as good as it's made out to be? Might get some if it is. [/quote] Yeah, I thought maybe it was snake oil but tried it and have been dead impressed. Seems to be more of a detergent than a solvent. First used it on an amp that was absolutely un usable and have not seen it since I gave it back to the customer. Follow the instruction and you cant go wrong. Main drawback is the price but if its just for the ocational use it should last you years as long as you dont let your guitarist get hold of it. Cheers Just

Hi, good work. I use the mini tooth cleaning brushes for cleaning valve sockets. Also well worth getting is some deoxit or peavey funkout spray. Servisol on pots tends to wash out and dissolve the grease inside and makes the pot feel loose, and can also dissolve some plastics and the crackle will come back after some use. Gimme a shout if you get stuck for any parts, we're in the same town. Cheers Just

Not to mention the feeble wire often found lurking inside amps going from the pcb to the o/p jacks/speakons.

Wish I'd had this beastie about 15 years ago when I was in a Stone Roses tribute band. Would have shut up the purist fans who always wanted that bit more. Very cool. Cheers Just Ps. Anyone know what amp Mani used back then? I'm guessing an ampeg.

Excellent-time to get the tools out. Great excuse for a big cab.

Hi all, I just got a JBL 2226h 15" driver donated to me. As the topic title suggests I want to know if its any good for bass guitar and if so whats the best cab? Also looking at the Jbl specs its rated at 600w AES continuous. How does this relate to RMS? Lots of questions I know but just want to know if this speaker is any use in instrument amplification or more for PA/reproduction. Was wondering if it would be any good in the BFM omni 15 cab. Cheers Just