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[quote name='bigthumb' post='1123487' date='Feb 11 2011, 03:33 AM']^ What he said. [b]Try and hold out for an older one [/b]as you'll be more used to the slimmer wenge neck. Lots are passive so don't expect the grunt you get with the EMG equipped Thumbs so maybe think about upgrades? Build quality is excellent and there's some really nice bubinga examples out there.[/quote] Or a very recent German one. Get an active, don't bother with the passives. The older ones aren't necessarily better than the newer ones, although plenty of people will tell you otherwise. The original brass nut is a horrid piece of design. The JANIII is the best. I would try to get a 2009/10 German bolt on, personally. I don't really believe in the 'sound of wood' so I'll say the bubinga neckthrough will have only marginal differences to the ash bolt ons.

[quote name='MatthewKeys' post='1124193' date='Feb 11 2011, 06:53 PM']Hey there, I bought a mexican fender jazz with seymour duncan hot stks for 260 the other day, and I just noticed this 'crack' in the neck (on the brown wood line). Is this serious, and is it going to affect playability or affect the bass in the long run? Thanks[/quote] Possibly a sign the truss rod is forcing the skunk strip out, or damaged it in some way. Take it to a decent repairer or luthier and get advice. It could easily be repairable or a symptom of something more serious.

[quote name='charic' post='1123800' date='Feb 11 2011, 01:17 PM']Hmm interesting. I'll have to give that a shot with a pick. I would say this song would be a great chance for economy picking practice (something Dood pointed out to me) and it's something I really want to get my head around. Pick pattern in my mind: Down(Low String), Down (High String), Up (High String). Does that makes sense? In that way you can remove one wrist movement Or that could be complete and utter B@!!@£%$[/quote] I'd alternate cross pick all the way.

That's a superb paint job! Top Work!

[quote name='Sonic_Groove' post='1123430' date='Feb 11 2011, 12:03 AM']Cool I have not seen that picture before -- The beautiful Miquette Giraudy (she is older now but still beautiful check out System 7) playing the very beast (must be from the Motivation Radio sessions). Brendan[/quote] She's lovely, I met her last year. Steve's cool too, had a nice chat about fishing and Steinbergers with him

[quote name='falcodub' post='1123726' date='Feb 11 2011, 12:09 PM']Yeah, i shall leave the truss rod well alone!!! My bass teacher is happy with the shape of the neck and the releif, its just the string height that needs altering so i think i will try this card trick. At least its easily reversed if it makes it worse!!![/quote] Truss rods are nothng to be afraid of. Small adjustments (8th to a 1/4 of a turn) and do not force it if it doesn't want to move. Seems like a shim is the way to go though from what you say.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1123676' date='Feb 11 2011, 11:18 AM']Top fret, surely Nigel? That'd be 20th - 24th, depending on the neck in question. You're looking at the overall curvature of the neck - 8th or 9th position being an approximate mid-point. Although I agree, truss adjustment isn't a good idea unless you know what you're doing & how everything works. Jon.[/quote] Mmm, depends on the neck and the rod/s, most of the relief actually happens between the 1st and 12th frets, maybe up to the 15th, sight your neck from the nut end and you'll see. The neck is much thinner and narrower between those frets so it stand to reason the neck will be more flexible and accomodating of truss rod adjustment. It does depend on the neck to some degree though, and almost all necks are different.

With your left hand, fret the lowest string (the one nearest your chin when playing) at the 1st fret. At the same time, with your right hand thumb, fret the same string at the 12th fret. While doing the above, look at the gap between the top of 8th and 9th frets and the bottom of the string, it should be about the thickness of the credit card. If the gap is more than that the trussrod in the neck may need to be tightened, this will lower you action and you should also then adjust the bridge saddles to suit. You ideally want a low action without any serious rattles or buzzing when you fret a string at any point on the neck. I nice lowish action will be no more than 2mm gap between the top of fret and the bottom of the lowest string at the 12th fret. NOTE: Don't mess with the truss rod unless you are familiar with the process.

[quote name='baboom' post='1122543' date='Feb 10 2011, 01:01 PM']I'm not in any shape or strength condition for DB yet it would seem ... On Tuesday after a 5-10 mins DB practice I got a slight sharp pain and then saw I'd managed to develop a bump on top of my left wrist that (after extensive googling) appears likely to be fluid buildup following tendon strain. I managed EB for 3 hours the next day (regular band practice) and a bit of turn on the mandolin at an acoustic night without much bother at all, but am thinking I should give the DB a rest for a day or two? Has anyone got any tips for getting into condition here? I might have been keeping my elbow out to the side quite a bit (arm horizontal and parallel to floor) - way more than Rufus Reid does (just got his DB DVD and book, his arm is vertical and parallel to neck more or less - i.e. the forearm is a normal vector to the fretboard) - I'm now thinking that keeping the elbow closer to my side and wrist straight like Rufus would mean my arm weight is more naturally pulling down on the strings and I can grip less? I know this sort of thing is best dealt with in person by teachers but I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts before my next visit.... Cheers T[/quote] I think I had the same thing last month. Much rehearsal and gigging, got pain in my plucking fingers and a lump on the top of my hand. I rested it for a few days and it went, hasn't reoccured.

[quote name='Sonic_Groove' post='1122559' date='Feb 10 2011, 01:15 PM']Wow That's like TONTO in ultra modular form!!! [attachment=71750:tontos_e...ead_band.jpg] I am going to call round and see if your Mum will let you play... B[/quote] Good one!

Interesting opinions. I love my X3 LIVE. But you need to play with it a lot to get the good stuff out. But I use mine in pro studios, in my own studio and onstage with all my bands. I wouldn't be without it. Has your Bass Academy got some sort of sponsorship deal with Line 6 or something ?

Fantastic sounds! Wonderful! But it's like a science lab your room mate It's given me some inspiration to mess with my POD X3 some more. I can certainly use some crazy noises in one of my bands, so I'll mess around a bit more. I have been far too subtle until now Funny though, after all the madness in the vid, the hollow woody sound of that Hofner Violin was beautiful, that's a lovely tone. Great stuff! Cheers.

[quote name='Clarky' post='1122426' date='Feb 10 2011, 10:44 AM']Check out 4 Candles's seafoam green MIJ Jazz that he has up for sale on BC. Phwoar![/quote] Possibly not to Gareth's specs but it is very nice! I would guess it would be an MIJ export, basswood body and Jap pups, but it depends. A good clue is the size of the tuner plates, small = probably basswood / large = probably alder. It's tricky to be sure though.

I reckon this could be a goer [url="http://www.fareastguitars.co.uk/usedjb5.htm"]http://www.fareastguitars.co.uk/usedjb5.htm[/url]

[quote name='gareth' post='1121998' date='Feb 9 2011, 10:20 PM']Your search is over and your perfect jazz bass is here:- [url="http://musical-instruments.shop.ebay.co.uk/Musical-Instruments-/619/i.html?LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0&LH_LocatedIn=1&_nkw=bass&LH_SiteWideCondition=Used285fdd&_armrs=1&_dmd=1&_from=R10&_ipg=50&_mPrRngCbx=1&_salic=3&_sop=10&_udhi=10000&_udlo=50"]http://musical-instruments.shop.ebay.co.uk...00&_udlo=50[/url] I have a 69 and it is easily the lightest, sweetest sounding jazz bass I have played.[/quote] It could be a dog or it could be amazing, or just mediocre. who knows without trying it. At least the strings are in line with the neck. But what pups are in it? There's very little information given by the seller, who I think may be an estate agent I presume it's the cream, block inlay one you mean ?

This geezer does a decent job of this bass part. Not difficult but not easy either. Easier with fingers that's for sure. Like SteveK said, thumb and fingers for the dum diddy dum diddy parts is the way to go. Don't know how it was done originally though.

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='1122178' date='Feb 10 2011, 12:22 AM']Pearl[/quote] Last one I had snapped I should go for Pearl, it's my mum's name.

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='1122138' date='Feb 9 2011, 11:49 PM']Snap[/quote] Spooky! What's going on tonight man?!

[quote name='Jam' post='1122158' date='Feb 9 2011, 11:59 PM']Ah man it's so good to hear this. This is how I felt with the $$ after playing for about 3 hours today! Hope you have years of happiness with it and don't get tempted by something else! [/quote] Hey mate, I am also delighted for you! Great news! We both took a risk buying basses unplayed, and it worked fantastically I did panic a bit actually in between you picking up the $$ and me getting the Jazz! Take care bud.

I just found a picture in a recent Bass Player mag of a '78 Jazz, the headstock decals are exactly the same as yours, except it says Jazz Bass of course.