Al Krow

I'm guessing you gents both had the Mesa D800, rather than the D800+?

If you're going to crash out, then you may as well do it in style, which you've clearly done - congrats!

That's seriously "unhelpful" from a GAS perspective 😁 What's the rest of your rig / signal chain with the Terror Mk2 and does it leave you with plenty of headroom with your band or are you finding you are needing to crank it up? Any clips of you using it live would be a bonus!

Interesting. Does sound like they've upped their game with the Gen 2 OTBs and these could definitely be worth a look. I guess that rules out the 1000W OTB Gen 1 for me then. But 500W at 4 ohm = around 300W at 8 ohm [(?) given that it's not precisely linear] should hopefully be just enough head room - I do value the headroom I currently have on tap with my DG M900 A&O, not least in not having to push the amp too hard whilst keeping pace with a 5 piece rock band.

What a fantastic little collection! Wall of shame on the OP updated At this rate, it's gonna be a brave man betting against you or @marleaux62 being the next of our happy crew to have a BB2000 or BB2000A in their collection! Not currently aware of any of us having one, although I suspect a few may have passed through our hands over the decades?

That's very helpful thanks Woody, but is that only in passive mode? Info from BD's website (which may or may not be entirely correct): The GLOCKENKLANG 3-band onboard preamp is active/passive switchable (at the volume push/pull), has a balance-pot with no volume dip in centre-position, a treble-pot with +/- 18 dB@18 KHz in active mode, acting as classical high cut in passive mode, mid-pot +/- 9 dB@550 Hz and a bass-pot with +/- 14 dB@40 Hz. Battery-connection is 9 volts. If it's also the case in active mode then, agreed that's a game changing proposition. Otherwise it would suggest that it's centred at 18kHz in active mode? PS I presume you also meant +/- 12dB etc (i.e. not just +)?

Excellent! Really interested to know how this all turns out and it would be marvellous if we have managed to find a successful work around that allows you to keep your P34, given what a good bass it is.

Cheers Luke - nope not yet, was thinking about it the context of the souping-up the electronics on a HB which we've been discussing on a separate thread. What are you hearing when you dial the treble up / down and which bass do you / did you have it on? I have to agree that 40 Hz is lower than ideal for the bass for me also; 55Hz to 70Hz on the TonePump seems to hit the mark really well. I've not managed to find details of the Yammy EQ frequencies anywhere on their passive and active preamps - would love to know. But the tone control on the passive BB 1025 in dialling off the treble to give you that "Motown" sound is excellent.

That's an interesting point about the Glock. But 6.5kHz seems much more "sensible" to me and is what is also in the Aguilar OBP-3 and Spector TonePump - and if you're having to choose between rounding off the highs at 18 kHz and and a "usable treble" at 6.5kHz personally I would go for the 6.5 kHz every time.

Is the Delano you're getting a 3 band EQ and what are the EQ centre points? I was a bit shocked to find that the Glock 3 band has a treble EQ centred at 18kHz, which is outside most adults hearing range so pretty much pointless!

Lol - I've got better things to do than to pick a fight with you about a DG amp you're not ever likely to own. Maybe someone else will humour you with a "proper response" (whilst hopefully not derailing the OP's thread too much). Enjoy your evening.

I've gone in the opposite direction Pete - started with Warwick and ended up with Spector Euro. Were the ones you played pre-2008 Euros by any chance? If so, I think the ability to dial back the TonePump preamp post 2008 could be significant factor in why they are now so very good (IMO). Mine is a 2015 vintage.

Can you unpack that for us a bit? I'm really interested to know in what way you're finding the NS2 to be significantly better, not least given that I really rate the Euro 5LX. That is a super helpful steer and cuts to the chase brilliantly, thank you.

@lancer - actually I wasn't on here to defend DG amps (even if I'm on my second one now and have never used it for metal!) but, like you, I'm quite interested in finding out a bit more about OTBs. There's a TB1000 in the FS that I've had my eye on and they don't seem to come up that often, but I've yet to try one out "in the flesh". Having said that I'm a bit of a sucker for hybrid tube pre & SS power amps for their combination of warmth and portability, which the OTB provides. I came across this review recently which immediately got my attention with the opening P bass + TB tone, which sounded pretty good to me!

I'd leave it at that and move on 😉

Interested if you are saying that as someone who has or previously had one? The DG amps do offer a classic DG drive at the front end which you can engage full on "for metal", as it were, or just a bit of dirt to add a bit grit to your tone, or not have any dirt at all! It does an excellent clean with a quality 6 band EQ and all the headroom you are likely to need in the 900 series 2. And several of us are using DG amps across a variety of genres.

Just seen your post on your FS thread: It's under 10lbs!! That's my magic number, these days, or tiny bit more at a stretch - and I'm not a particularly sturdy youth by any measure of that phrase! In which case, can I make one further suggestion: leave the existing tuners on, but before selling get one of these: Minotaur Bass Strap Black – Thomann UK If I had discovered these sooner, I wouldn't have sold my P35! It's given a complete new lease of life to a couple of my heavier basses and an opportunity for me to appreciate just how really good they are!

Agreed, and please add a 5000 and 5000A into that list for us 5 string players (plus a PH 5er whilst they're at it). I've been really very happy with the quality of my Indonesian made 1025. I get that 50 years ago Japan vs Indonesia would have been a big gulf in terms of economics and local skills. But my sense is that Indonesia is a pretty good location for decent quality bass manufacture these days. I'm guessing a similar debate to a Czech made Spector vs USA made Spector, or MIM vs USA made Fender. With Spector, I think the Czech version is superb and as much as I would love a US NS5, paying literally double is a jump only likely to be matched by a 10% (max?) improvement in parts and quality.

We seem to be travelling down an identical path! I kept my 1025 in preference to the P35 purely on weight grounds. I think the P35 edges it otherwise, in particular it has a tonally sweeter bridge pup. My 1025 doesn't have Ultralites and it will likely be a fraction heavier than yours with a 5 string neck, although I suspect not much in it as I think the 5ers have flatter necks, but it still comes in at a comfortable 4.4kg = 9.7 lbs. My guess is the Ultralites will shave a bit more than 0.1kg, I reckon more like 1lb = 0.45kg off the weight (well for 5 tuners maybe a bit less for 4 tuners). But I suspect the manufacturer will provide the precise weights online and then it would be a case of just removing one of your existing tuners and accurately weighing it (and then obviously x4) to find out what the weight saving would be.

I saw your FS ad and was interested that you had exactly the same experience with your BB P34 as I did with my P35 i.e. fantastic bass, but a touch too heavy. What's yours weighing in at? Completely understand where you're coming from about drilling holes in a high end bass - and with Ultralites as they have a smaller footprint the holes are very much exposed. (Although cosmetically the old tuners would liklely cover the new holes should you decide to move it on and provided you've disclosed the holes a purchaser shouldn't mind too much or, at most, you would knock a bit of the sales price). But they would shave I'm guessing 1lb off the weight and potentially transform it to being "just perfect". But I'm still with you in hesitating!

Yeah interesting one - I remember you complimenting on my (as it turns out wrong!) take on the bassline to this one 'cos it wasn't simply completely aping the guitar part, although it's pretty close to it. Key for me was getting it locked in with the drums and I agree it sounds more natural / less awkward than the original / correct bassline and we certainly don't have any gaps where the bass drops off entirely. Seems to always go down well with the audiences. I think I'll try them both and see which the band prefers when we next rehearse in 2025...😁

The slow it down function on YT is a game changer for learning new basslines / tabs! 3/4 speed or even 1/2 speed if necessary. That's a little trick @chris_b shared on a post a while back. Gotta be me in my top 3 most useful BC tips ever!

Hah, me too. Tabs on this clip which ties in with the OP's post if anyone's interested in re-working their cover (which I clearly need to!).