peted

Great news. It's always nice when a you can fix your own amp, even better when it's free!

I use a Hartke PRO 2200 cab. 4 Ohms, 300 Watts handling, 2x12". I think it sounds great with plenty of low-end and very responsive (it's quite a large, ported enclosure). I think it has the best of both worlds (10" speakers vs. 15" speakers).

I use a Hartke 3500 head (350 Watts) and a Hartke 2200 cab (2x12"). I don't turn the volume on the head above 3 out of 10, but I don't think I would gig with anything less powerful. It's all about headroom with bass

[quote name='thinman' post='212799' date='Jun 4 2008, 10:15 PM']I used the CPC piezos in my Omni10 and they're fine. However, invest in a tube of silicone (black's best if you can find it - try a builder's merchant) and seal the piezos up. Mine had three quite big gaps near each screw that holds the horn to the back part. Cover the seam and those holes with silicone and use a bit more to seal the piezos onto the baffle when you fit them. It's really important to make them airtight else you'll get all sorts of odd whistles. Also, if you're putting handles on the sides, don't do what I did and put them mid-way between front and back - they're much better mounted at the balance point which is nearer the back - mine's not too comfortable to carry as it is.[/quote] I was already planning on squirting a bit of silicone sealant around the joints of the piezos, and toying with the idea of a silicone seal around the piezo/cab join itself. Thanks for the heads-up. I haven't decided on handles yet. I'm equiping this with Eminence Deltalites so I'll see how heavy it is at the end of the build and have a think then.

The Sei designs are flawless. They also have a great finish, so can't wait to see some pics when it's back from the finishers.

All the hardware turned up today from Blue Aran and CPC (thanks again Sugden for the recommendation). Weather outside is no good for more cutting, so i've just balanced some bits together for a photoshoot. [attachment=9331:OMNI10_03.JPG] [attachment=9332:OMNI10_04.JPG]

That is very impressive indeed. Kudos to you.

I've got a buddy with that exact spec bass (Warwick Corvette $$ in antique tobacco) and it's a great bass. Congratulations.

I'm nuts about Warwick. The 2nd hand market is dominated by people trying to get pre-1990 models when I believe the majority of workmanship was done by hand. I don't consider the modern Warwicks to be in any way 'worse' than pre-1990 models and I'm happy that means my next Warwick will be an absolute bargain modern 2nd hand instrument.

[quote name='Pkomor' post='211666' date='Jun 3 2008, 11:42 AM']Does this apply to a HA2500 too, could i change the valve? if so, what affect has the groove tube had in changing the sound?[/quote] Does the HA2500 have a valve in it? I thought that it used a 'valve simulation' circuit...

I'll 2nd the Roland Bass Cube, but also try the Line6 Studio 110. I A/B'd the Roland and Line6 and feel that the Line6 just pipped the Roland for the sound I was looking for. I have used the Line6 Studio at band practices (with a well behaved drummer) and a couple of gigs with P.A. assistance.

My rule is - leave the Ground Lift 'off'. If the sound engineer says that he is getting a 'hum' or noise from the DI socket in your amp, then switch the Ground Lift 'on' (preferably after the engineer has muted the line from your amp).

Well, I've taken the full plunge and ordered all the hardware and bits for my CAB. Here's the woodwork so far... [attachment=9270:OMNI10_01.JPG] [attachment=9271:OMNI10_02.JPG] I have yet to do the 60 degree cuts on the horn fronts. I'm dredding them

I bought my Groove Tube Mullard direct from the UK Distributor [url="http://www.guitarxs.com/groovetubes/product_list.asp?catID=1"]here[/url], but they seem to be having website issues as I type this. Maybe worth giving them a call on 01227 832558 to see if they've got any stock.

Thanks Peeps! I'll check out Maplins and CPC tonight. I'll also take a quick photo of my woodwork 'attempts' tonight so this thread is more be-fitting its place in the p0rn section. I tell you now... it isn't pretty.

You can't control the voltage to the pre-amp valve in the Hartke HA3500, the dial is just a 'blend' between the solidstate and valve pre-amps. You'd need to put in an valve which overdrives at very low voltages. I swapped the stock valve in my HA3500 for a Groove Tubes Mullard and it doesn't sound in any way overdriven or gritty. I think you would be best served by putting something like a Sansamp or DHA pedal before the input to get an overdriven sound.

I have been known to play metal. I've got nothing current at the moment, I was in the initial lineup of End Soteria (http://www.myspace.com/endsoteria). My favourite bands for basslines have to be Deftones, Taproot, Mudvayne, Sikth, etc. Though I don't confess to being able to play as well as any of them. If I'm playing in a band with one other guitarist then I tend to get a bit experimental to fill out the sound. When I'm playing along with 2 other guitarists I calm down a bit and try not to steal too many frequencies at once

Afternoon Bass Chatters, I'm the the midst of my first BFM Omni 10 build. I haven't bought any of the speaker parts or taken any photos yet as I'm not entirely convinced my 'engineering tolerances' will mean it all fits together properly. I was planning on going with Blue Aran (http://www.bluearan.co.uk) for all my speakers, corners, paint, grill, etc. I can't find the exact piezo tweeters that Bill talks about in the build manual on the site. Can anybody point me in the direction of a stockist, or equivalent on the Blue Aran site? Promise that I'll put pics up if it all fits together properly. Cheers.

The fan in my Hartke 3500 is VERY loud. I would go mad if I used it at low volumes at home. I've got my little Line6 Studio for home practice. Leave the big amp for gigging where the fan makes no difference.

Gamble! How do buddy? Can't believe you're getting tired of the SWR, it's an awesome cab (but I would be biased as I was there helping you choose between that and the horrible Ampeg 6x10 ). If I were you, i'd try and get into the same scenario you had before. Where you've got your amp in the store and you can A/B compare the Ampeg 410HLF with your existing cab. I also wouldn't buy anything until Soundtech.co.uk start to distribute the new range of [url="http://www.samsontech.com/products/productpage.cfm?prodID=1941&brandID=3"]Hartke Hydrive cabs[/url]. If I hear anywhere in Essex that stocks them I'll give you a buzz and we can go shopping together again .

That Omni 10 looks great. I bought the plans from BFM a few months back but haven't summoned the courage to try building yet. I have nil woodwork experience, so I'll be asking my dad for help.

I played one of those Jazz 24s about a year ago and loved it. Congratulations on the purchase.

WOW, Mike. That is a masterpiece.

[quote name='Russ' post='160571' date='Mar 19 2008, 11:46 PM']I'm liking the sound of the LD400 Pro... 2x10", external speaker out... been hoping they would come out with something like this ever since I saw the first LowDowns. The question is, are they going to be putting out cabs as well?[/quote] I can't think of anything that Line6 can bring to the cab market that isn't there already. I think they should just sell Line6 decals to put on existing cabs. Genious!

[quote name='paul, the' post='157964' date='Mar 15 2008, 01:45 PM']how do they perform for warmth and thump?[/quote] They can sound a little fuller and warmer when you use the tube pre-amp, but they certainly are not the traditional definition of 'thump'. You can fake the thumpy sound by dialling in the bass and taking all the treble off, but you're better off getting an Ashdown ABM if it's thump you're after.