rmorris

Of course, the real answer is to go headless 🙂

That looks so wrong 😳 I honestly can't work out how the B, E and A strings are supposed to work with that headstock. Those breakout angles ain't right 🤣

Yes. It's all Physics. Everything is. It's a matter of how we understand and interporate it.

There seems to be a lack of people mentioning string guages and string types here. It's a critical part of the equation defining the string tension required. It's related to, but not the same as string flexibility. Flexibility is affected by string make up eg hex or round core. Ratio of core to winding. As with short scale in general, harmonic response may be impaired by a thicker string but the tension decreased. Many feel that the extra "snap" of the thicker string and the lower action possible compensates.

So it wasn't actually silent ? Or....

Note to my own post - don't do this if you have a bound neck 😳

There are YouTube etc videos showing doing this with flexible sanding blocks. Smoothing and rounding the fret edges and "rolling" the fretboard edge to give a "deluxe" feel to eg an inexpensive Affinity Strat. And using progressively finer grit to achieve a polished finish. Tip: if in UK - Superdrug sell a nail filing block with different grits on the four faces. Obvs this would be more difficult with Stainless Steel frets but guessing that's not the case here or with less expensive instruments.

Shouldn't be a problem. Permanent magnets I assume. Think about it - they get attached to phones !

Okay. So it seems that it's a 'DC Click' rather than a switch bounce issue. Sounds like you might need to lower those pull down resistors to give a faster time constant. Yeah - I know it affects the impedances. fwiw the 'proper' way to switch without clicking is to ramp the switching so that the dc level doesn't change abruptly. SSM used to make switching ics that did this very nicely from a low voltage supply (5V IIRC) by using internal charge pumps to drive switching FET devices. Sadly no longer manufactured. You can do it with discrete parts but it's a bit of a fuss with having to generate a suitable voltage rail to turn a jfet switch off. Although it depends on the audio level and how fussy you are about offness and crosstalk.

What's the nature of your click problem ? How did you improve it to some extent ? What pedals etc are at the start/end of fx chain ?

To a large extent the viability of a short scale depends on how hard you play and the degree of string slap/buzz you are willing to tolerate. Common wisdom actually dictates lower guages at shorter scales to give better harmonics but I've always found the greater tension of eg 45-105 strings to more than compensate for that. Maybe a comprise @ eg 32 inch ,?

fwiw it's now priced @ £22.95 ex shipping.

Be aware that style of moulded plug usually has poor screening at the plug ends. Youi might not be bothered about it of course.

Ahh! I didn't see the date on that ! I think the non-acetone stuff would be safe but maybe not as effective.

I know the question isn't directed at myself but I do know about this stuff so so fwiw... The conductive (carbon loaded) paint is technically not as effective as RFI shielding as properly applied copper. But it can be very effective to the point where it is not the weak link in the scheme of things. And, yes, as someone commented the problem is often with it not being properly applied. I've seen it where the coverage is patchy etc.

Shiny Shiny Shiny Boots of...Copper 🤣

Ha. I don't really know what that is but I'll pop into a local outlet and try and take a look 🙂

Do you mean Acetone based nail polish remover ? Asking because lots of npr is now acetone free.

Interesting

Yes. I was looking at that one. I thought it might be a bit lightweight for fretwork but maybe I'm wrong about that 🤔

Thanks for the input. Just wanting to keep it rock solid stable. For general woodwork etc I'd just say just clamp it in a vice. But, you know, these are my babies (along with catboy 😊).

Asking the collective here...what do you recommend for a neck cradle. In specifics I want to stabilise basses to file nut slots. I see people using / recommending all types of things from a bag of rice, those "rocking" supports that you can also turn over for greater lateral support, to the Dunlop black one that looks good to me but a bit £££ if it doesn't hit the spot for this. Advice appreciated.

All things being equal you'll need a higher action compared to a standard six string electric.

Oops typo in title 🙄

And the body I guess as same seller https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155759766067?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2EH74ExdTmm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=QgO-3FFfTR-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY