Marc S

[quote name='scrumpymike' timestamp='1498036461' post='3322075'] You were lucky - we ended up livin' in a cardboard Ricky box in't middle o't road! [/quote] Cardboard box? luxury... sheer luxury!

Bought one of P-T-P's Markbass NY 112 cabs the other day He was selling two, "preferably together" - but I managed to convince him to split them for me So I hope he manages to sell the other one now! lol Great guy to deal with, and top bloke with it! Trade, buy, sell in complete confidence BC'ers

Re your odd distorted sound - eliminate one thing at a time... Plug it into your amp only - i.e. with nothing else in the chain - remove the mixer, your Sansamp etc Then try different leads, if the problem still persists. Failing that, it might still be your amp - have you got a bass playing pal with an amp you could test your bass with? Or another bass you can test your amp with? Maybe you could pop back to the shop and try your bass with another amp or 2?.... but first, isolate each thing in the chain, from leads, batteries (in Sansamp or any other pedal) Glad you got one you're comfortable playing, and that you like PS. Love the look of gsgbass'es White Jazz with maple board too - nice!

[quote name='bazztard' timestamp='1497758323' post='3320387'] the obvious answer is buy another P, put flats on one, rounds on the other . It's the only way I could resolve the issue hehe [/quote] This was my first thought too lol I recently put some LaBella Low Tension flats on a new fretless bass I have to say, I've grown to like them quite a lot. I don't like the higher tension you get with Flats Previously, I had a fretless with TI flats - they were a lovely low tension string, but sometimes felt a bit too low tension

Well, first of all - good on you for just going ahead and asking Scott what odds & ends he had lying around If you hadn't, anything could have happened to this body & neck... who knows You don't see many SD Curlee's around for sale, so part of me just thinks, go ahead & do as complete an original "restoration" as you can... I think I'd be tempted to do it as a custom build that looks "quite a bit like an SD Curlee" - or maybe an SD Curlee which was a custom build one-off - perhaps an unusual colour or finish? Or even an SD Curlee that's been re-finished? Will you be sourcing as close to the orig pickups as possible? Will you be able to do that, or would it be better to fit more modern pickups, or upgraded pickups and electrics? It's a tricky question, and I think you might get several different (and opposing) answers - which might not help you in your dilemma Once completed, will you badge this bass as anything? Will you leave it un-badged / un-branded? Is it an SD Curlee? - probably not, but it's sort of also "the last one" - or is it? Sorry, I've given you more questions than you already had lol

[quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1497428974' post='3317987'] ..... when I picked it up - it did feel like a slightly chunkier neck than either my Sandberg or Warwick. Kinda hoping that my reasonably large hand reach will mean that I could get used to this, but wondering whether this has been an off-putting factor for others, too? Please do keep your thoughts / views coming - they're always interesting and informative to hear! [/quote] I think for me, Ricks have slightly chunky necks, but I don't find them overly chunky What I think I disliked (a bit) about the 4003 I used to own, was not so much the chunkiness - but the neck didn't seem to taper as much as it does on say, a Fender Jazz. I've not played a Rick with as chunky a neck as an old 70's Fender P I once owned - but again, a chunky neck that doesn't taper noticeably toward the nut is what I think I don't like - again, that's just personal preference. One of the nicest basses I've ever played, and perhaps the best, most comfortable Rick I ever played, belongs to Gelfin of this forum. I've mentioned it before, but he challenges anyone not to like it, and pretty much everyone who has played it (even Rick haters) seem to be won over.... You'd think that such things would be far more universal and without so much variation - but some basses just seem to be better players, or have more "mojo" or just seem easier to bond with..... EDIT: So there are great Ricks out there lol Good luck in your search - maybe just go for the one you really liked - again, it's your money and your choice. Listen to peoples opinions, but bear in mind that they may have just taken a dislike (or stronger) towards a particular brand, and Rick seems to be one of those brands.... BTW. You mention Sandbergs - I've nothing against them, but I tried to bond with a couple, and just couldn't. I tried a couple that one guy was selling, one of the cheaper models and a rather expensive one, and oddly enough the cheaper one felt and sounded the better bass - still not a patch on my RW Precision mind.. but again, it's all about personal taste & preference....

You shouldn't avoid getting one.... If you love the look, feel and sound of a Rick - then get one. I know there are a lot of Rick haters on here, but if it's the bass that does it for you, and you are GASsing after one - then there's only one course of action Like others, I don't care for the CEO very much, but I once bought a car from a salesman I didn't particularly like either - though the car was fine.. I've always liked Ricks, they're just very "different" in appearance and I love the sounds and variety of tone you can get. One of my fave bass players, Paul Grey (ex Damned, Hot Rods, UFO) plays them, and I've always really liked his sound. But as others have noted, they've been used in many genres of music, and always look & sound good. Just wear a sweat band on your right forearm to stop the body edge from digging in.... Also, try thoroughly before you buy - you may find they vary, well, at least in terms of set up, but I had a 4003 and it was pretty damn good, but wasn't the easiest to play - given that I'd played a few. These days, I don't own a Rick, but I've got an old 70's Shaftesbury that I love, and though I rarely play it, for me it's the best "Rick" I've ever played.... Good luck curing your GAS - let us know what you decide to do

[quote name='ikay' timestamp='1497007148' post='3315242'] Bear in mind that if you lower the action you may need to tweak your intonation again! Ideally you should have got your luthier to set the action at the same time he did the intonation. [/quote] I was just about to say the very same thing. Did you pay your luthier for a full set-up? How well do you know him? Could you maybe give him a call, and ask if he could tweak the action for you? just say you're struggling with it, as it's too high (or low) for you. If you paid for a set-up a luthier should normally check how you like the action set Also, what strings have you got on the bass? Have you changed them? A decent set of strings really can make all the difference to the playability and sound of a bass - BUT if you intend to do this, be sure to replace them before you take to the luthier - as a different gauge of string may need another intonation/ action adjustment.... Best of luck with it

[quote name='LewisK1975' timestamp='1496945248' post='3314925'] I've actually got one of these PB-50 basses, currently stock. Came as a part trade on something else I sold. Cogs be turning after reading this thread! To the guys who did these, how did you nail the headstock shape before taking tools to them? [/quote] Why do I keep finding out you've got even more basses than I previously thought Lewis? lol

Thanks to Donnyboy for resurrecting this thread - as somehow, I managed to miss it first time around! How did that happen? Great work both Donny & Discreet. Really like the look of this HB Precision. The colour looks great too, and I liked it with the gold pickguard - even though a Gold PG is not usually "my thing". Every now & again, I get a bit of a hankering for a 50's P bass.... and those pics haven't helped! Nice tint to that neck too Discreet, and the re-shaped headstock looks great too

He's not too close to you, but I can't speak highly enough about Dave Dearnaley in Cardiff. He does lots of custom built acoustic & electric guitars too. Top bloke, really knows his stuff and nice guy to boot. I'm sure there'll be someone closer to home for you though.....

[quote name='paddy109' timestamp='1496658348' post='3312962'] ....I used to just slacken the strings a little before making adjustments on the bridge - never any dramas but jut keep an eye on the feet of the bridge and they remain flat on your bass. [/quote] Same here - I've not had any problems with the bridge falling over

[quote name='police squad' timestamp='1496675144' post='3313119'] you won't be disappointed with a Flea bass. I am amazed how good the pickups are, especially the bridge one. For the first time in nearly 30 years of gigging I find myself dialing in the bridge pickup..... [/quote] Another +1 for the Flea Jazz here too. Although again, it might be a bit more than your budget..... They are fairly light and nicely balanced, and somehow, like all the RW series, they feel "played in" and comfortable... Pickups definitely sound really good too, as police squad says Oddly enough, the Flea Jazz is cheaper new than the Fender Roadworn Jazz, yet Flea's are going for more second-hand! Supply & demand, or maybe they're just apparently more desirable?

If you could extend the budget a little further (assuming it's £500 +) I would say keep a lookout for a Fender Roadworn Jazz Yes, they're well over £1K new now, and they seem to fetch £650 or so second-hand on here But I did spy one in freeads a short while back, which was offers around £600 The Roadworn Jazz is the bass that made me fall for Fenders again. They're MIM, but they're a cut above that (or 3) EDIT: And I've played a few really nice MIM's too.... I've owned 2x US Jazzes, and the Roadworn was better than both those, and other US and MIM Jazzes I've played....

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1496603210' post='3312637'] I've yet to meet anybody from this forum that I didn't like....everybody I've met at a Bash has been open and friendly and when I've done deals it's been a bind to end conversations as there's always so much in common...... [/quote] Yes, I'm in 100% agreement - I've met quite a few BC'ers, at local bass bash events and when buying /selling / trading... I've got to say I've really enjoyed meeting every one of them. I know several local BC'ers who I'd never hesitate to ask for advice or help.... Thanks BC - I don't know what I did before I discovered this forum (well, I probably spent much less money on gear ha ha)

Hi Rory Smith - are those Roto 4000s any good with a bow? I recall playing a DB with Roto nylon wound (black) strings - they were nice looking strings, and sounded quite "dark", but they were rather too "dead" sounding for my liking.... the Innovations sound much warmer to me. Also, those Nylon wound strings didn't seem to bow at all well... Just wondered what the 4000s were like? It seems to me that no DB string is a good "all rounder" - perhaps I'm wrong, but maybe the best on that front are the Spirocore Weichs? EDIT: I'm not much of a bow player - but it's nice to occasionally have the option of playing something simple with a bow....

Ps. I've got an adjustable DB bridge for sale atm. That would definitely need a luthier to fit though.... I do like having an adjustable bridge on DB - its helped me when swapping strings, as I can get the action I want, to suit the strings fitted, and I've gradually raised the action as I've improved my technique

Yes, the rev is spot on re changing strings one at a time - you don't want to risk the sound post falling over! Re string choice, I use silver slaps. They're good for slap, and they Pizz ok too. I find the E string doesnt seem quite as loud as the other strings - but oddly, it sounds fine when amplified. Of course, other factors like pickups, preamps and amps / speakers. The silver slaps are a good way into learning slap. They tend not to bow too well though IMO, and I've heard most other DB players say the same thing. I did have Spurocore Weichs fitted to my bass previously - I found they are one type of steel string I actually could slap, but the silver slaps have a better slap tone IMO... My EUB is wearing innovation silvers (as opposed to silver slaps) and these seem slightly higher tension. Again, they're good strings, but the silver slaps are slightly warmer, I think.... Silver slaps and gold slaps are apparently the same, appart from their colour. Not tried the innovation rockabilly's, which might be another option for you. With DB strings, there are a whole load more options, and it might seem mind blowing to the newcomer. Keep an eye on the marketplace though, as players often try a new set of strings, then decide to change to different strings and move a relatively new set ofstrings on to someone else Good luck in your search EDIT: I learned DB slap on a set of kindly donated "weedwackers" - they definitely helped me to learn slap - they were OK, but the E string was way way too floppy on these, so I'd advise against weedwackers, unless you find youre really struggling with the technique (I certainly was) - but I quickly swapped them for innovations

[quote name='EliasMooseblaster' timestamp='1496406766' post='3311160'] You'll have to excuse my choice of words - "mismatched" was chosen long before I'd had any coffee this morning! What I was trying to get across was that there's something about two well-matched jazz pickups which produce certain distinct tones - e.g., the scooped sound (both p/ups on full) and that bright, piano-like tone (bridge backed off a bit) - which I've never managed to replicate with a P/J. [/quote] Ah, no "excuse" needed EliasMooseblaster - great name BTW! I know where you're coming from. Actually, I recently traded my Fretless US P (which I absolutely loved) - but I got myself (in another trade) a Fretless Jazz - and there's definitely something in the sound of 2 Jazz pickups that just seems to suit Fretless - or at least the fretless sound I'M after anyway. Otherwise, I'd have kept that fretless P.... I love the sound of a fretted Jazz too, and I still miss my Roadworn Jazz like crazy - but again, it's down to the setting and band / genre you're playing in - but in the band I really need vintage Fender type tones in, the P/J definitely cuts through better, and just has a nice edge when dialing some J tones in. EDIT: Since P/J'ing my 2x P's, I've found the sound to be so flexible for any of the bands I'm playing with. In one band in particular, where we cover Rock, pop, Reggae, Ska, Blues, Punk, Folk etc etc! I can just get what I want from a P/J, and that can be very different sounds between 2 songs right next to each other... And sorry to bang on lol - but the simplicity of just having 3 controls in V,V,T arrangement is just what I need for quick changing of tone, as opposed to 6 or 7 knobs, some with dual controls / stacked controls and switches.....