Woodinblack

Thats something I never heard before. The root notes are called whatever the keys are, it would be unusual to mix sharps and flats in one scale, so I would agree with you, I couldn't bring myself to say C# Ab Db Gb as it looks ugly, and how can you have a scale with C# and Db in it? So yeh, if you are going to call it drop C# the other strings would be G# C# and F#. otherwise I would call it drop D flat! These aren't 'rules', but are common. The real rule on what you call something is that if you do a major scale, you wouldn't have two of the same notes in it, so for instance in the key of F you have a Bb, because if you had an A# you would have a scale with two As, only separated by a drawn sharp every time you wrote it! I would say on the strings, doesn't have to be that heavy strings if you play lightly anyway

Ere we go then. Probably too much detail but better than not enough! 1) Remove the socket from the bass with the 2 screws. 2) pull the socket out from the bass. Not much cable spare so this is about as far as you can get it 3) Undo the T7 torx bolt holding the case (and one of the legs) on. Really sorry about the state of my skin above my nail, just got out of the bath 4) With this undone you can push the black bit in the middle out of the metal holder, although as there is not much spare cable it is easier to put the metal bit back in the body. Don't worry about the little red disk, it doesn't seem to want to come out. 5) Lift the red bit out of the channel. In that channel is the spring, which you can then take out. I can't show that because my spring isn't there. It is in a box somewhere in case I ever need to put it back in, although if I ever do, I will never be able to find the right box again, but I kid myself that I can. 6) Put the red bit back in the channel, ensuring that the top of it is in line with the top of the socket, it will line up below and above, but those aren't the right places. Push the metal sleeve back over the black internal part. 7) In the process of doing this, almost certainly one of the little legs will have come out of the socket. Just push it back in the obvious space where it goes, so it lines up with where the screw goes in, and put the screw back in 8 ) then put it back in the body, do the screws up, check everything still works, and not the wonder of being able to put a jack plug in and take it out without having to use two hands!

Give me a while, I will take mine apart again tonight and have a look.

I assume that is the earth. It turns the active electronics on by shorting the sleve with the ring of a stereo socket, nothing to do with the spring or other part of the mechanism.

Agreed - looks like a normal one. Take it out and check the middle and end connectors arent' shorted out. - edit ok a fraction too early so you did. Inside that black body you should see the actual pins. If you have a meter check that the connectors aren't shorting out. If you don't, watch it when you put a plug in and check when the plug goes out they arent touching

I don't know what sort of socket it is. If it is a surface one, then you can probably bend the pins back, but if it is a barrel one (that are notoriously unreliable) there isn't that much you can do other than replacing it.

When I took mine apart I had seen a takeapart guide on the internet, although there wasn't much to it. Now I look I can find the guide but the pictures are missing (which is odd as it was only last year). That was here https://www.head-fi.org/threads/guide-to-modifying-a-neutrik-locking-jack.86990/ but when I took mine out (I didn't have a lot of wire either) it was pretty clear how to get the spring out (I was looking to get the red bit out but when I tried the spring came out instead, so that worked).

Probably the jack socket has shorted out so it is on all the time.

I started listening to them from the Paul Di'Anno years but still think Number of the beast to powerslave were the top albums.

Not only pointless but a bit harmful I would say. If I accidentally trip over a cable on a stage, do I want the bass to go flying, the amp to go flying, the cable to be ripped out of the plug or just the plug to come out so I can put it back in? I really don't get the problem it is trying to solve. I got a bit fed up having to take the bass off to remove the plug! thing is, without the spring, it is a nice socket

Drop the socket out, take out the screw and the spring comes out. Without that it doesn't force it to lock. I can't be doing with those sort of sockets on an instrument.

I agree about the socket, but you don't need to do all that, just take the spring out of the socket, then all is fine with them. Thats what I did with mine.

Took the amp and pedalboard out today as I had to test an amp I am shipping out tomorrow. Everything works fine.

Doesn't seem unreasonable. £3 for shipping, £137 to get on the ferry...

I practiced all the time. However, doing two 3 hour gigs on consecutive nights shows you cant practice your skin staying on!

Probably not a huge amount but I am sure they would have a following. The songs are great fun to play

I guess that depends on your definition of preamps. it certainly has preamp models, in distortion, but that is what a lot of people want in preamps, I think it covers everything you would want in a preamp, tone shaping, stereo balancing, mixing, gain changing, overdrive, IRs (it has those). I doesn't have amplifier models but then niether do most standalone pre-amps.

That would be an interesting signature model. Most are fairly pointless.

For reference, this was originally with a TC450 and 2xRH112 cabs, all brand new from the shop. I have now changed to an ashdown ABM600, the behaviour is the same.

The HX FX also models two of the other preamps

That is one of my 'directional' cables. 4 pole / 2 wire. They have a piece of tape at one end saying which end goes to the amp. They only work one way round. I think I am just going to buy a load of 4 wire cable and rewire them as its one less thing to worry about.

Well, updated my beringer CT100 tester for a CT200, which now has speakons on it! Seems like a couple of 4 way plugs with 2 wires.

Put some of those markbass coated strings on the EHB last week, the nickels (I have stainless too, but the ehb doesn't need to be brighter!). That was a 130 bottom string I think, with no issues - they are the ones I couldn't fit to the shuker as it was too wide at the bottom

Some people have a lot of time to spend coming into a thread of someone else having a problem they don't care about just to say they don't care about the problem 10x2