Twincam

[quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1461773874' post='3037551'] How are these things in terms of heft? [/quote] This may not be popular but in my experience there loud, good tone but lacking in heft!

I can't believe how light the range were, probably the lightest rigs around £ for £. They sound alright too. The 500's are loud too. Not sure how they would stand up to gigging I don't think they would like to be mistreated at all, although construction is good.

[quote name='Musicman20' timestamp='1461750127' post='3037272'] I really Trace amps. I've not played one that I dislike and my old one that I (unfortunately) sold on here never missed a beat once they sent me some different fuses. Never ONCE cut out or played up in about 10-12 years of use. Solid state amps have a place in my playing history and always will. The one reason I really like my Genz SMax 9.2 is that it is basically a smaller/lighter version of my old Trace amp when it comes to tone in the FET channel. Cool topic. [/quote] I like and hate Trace amps at the same time. They are tough and loud! Probably one of the loudest amps I've heard watt for watt other than valve. But not keen on the tone. Anyhow I still think it would be cool to have an early transistor amp maybe not the first generation.

[quote name='funkgod' timestamp='1461754070' post='3037308'] I have never had a problem with talk bass I like the more global view on things, Now.... If you really want to get jumped on, join bassesbyleo.com say something even slightly out and feel the wrath of mein fuhrer ( can't name him) who feels it's his duty to pass his comment on every post that goes on there, one very annoying person [/quote] I'm tempted to join lol

Here is an easy way to set up a bass, with household tools that should give you a very playable bass and a pretty standard setup. Tools need are a 4mm or 3/16 Allen key for the truss rod, a 2.5 mm allen key and a 2mm allen key. Also a small allen key or small flat head screwdriver for the bridge saddle adjustment. Finally a standard business card like the ones from a taxi company not a plastic credit card etc they are too thick. Of course if you can invest in the correct tools but this method is fine for getting a bass in playing condition, for someone with limited tools. First tune your bass normally then fret at the first fret and then with your elbow of your right arm hold down the e string at about the 17th fret. This is so you can check the relief of the neck, place the business card corner first in between the 7th fret of the E string while its still held down at the first and last fret. It should slide in nicely if it doesn't fit in as the gap is too small then the neck is too straight and needs more relief, if it fits in but there is also a gap the neck has too much relief (too bent). the card should just fit in there nicely maybe a very slight drag. Business cards tend to be around .010 - .015" in size which is around about the average in most factory specs for relief. If you tighten the truss rod turning it right it will make the gap smaller, left for increasing the gap. This is of course while your looking at the nut right on if your holding the bass tightening looks like your going left and vice versa!. Assuming the truss rod access is in the headstock. Ok so turn the allen key small turns at a time, then check the relief as above, remember each time you tighten or loosen the truss rod you must put the A string back and re tune all the strings so you get an accurate reading of the relief. Its time consumming and can sometimes be a pain in the bum but has to be done right. Once you have the relief set, then we adjust the bridge saddle to alter the final string action (height). There are a two different areas to measure the string height at the 12th and 17th fret i suggest if you play hard we go for the measurements at the 12th if you play lighter the 17th fret. There is also of course the fact nearly everyone likes a different string height but, 2.5mm - 2mm is about standard. To measure the height get your 2.5mm allen key and i will assume you have chosen to measure from the 12th fret. and without fretting the string measure the height of the E string from top of the fret to the bottom, and adjust at the bridge saddle so again the allen key slides nicely in and out with very slight drag. Make sure the bridge saddle is level it does not need to be angled, also while taking measurements make sure the bass is in relativly the same position you play, as necks move slights amounts at different angles. Ok So once the E is at 2.5mm you can set the A, D and G in this way the final G string should be 2mm. So maybe E and A could be 2.5mm and D and G 2mm in height from the top if the 12th fret to the bottom of the string. And again after every single small movement of the strings you make at the bridge every time before the height is rechecked it need to be put back into tune. The bass other than now needing to be intonated should be in very reasonable playing condition. If you dont have a 2.5mm allen key a 3/32" one gives you about 2.4mm. Feel free to set the string height higher or lower, but using allen keys or even drill bits do a good job of measurements. 4mm is the heights action that could be considered playable, under 2mm is low but the lower you go the more buzzing you might get if you hit the strings hard. Buzzing from frets 1 to 7 indicate too little relief, buzzing in the higher frets indicate to low an action, buzzing all over might indicate just that your playing too hard for the setup. Then you would set intonation, and recheck the string heights (adjust if needed) if the intonation was well off it will change string height on adjusting. Sometimes you have to go back and forth a bit, setting the action and intonation. The pickup heights can vary I personally like pickups around 3mm to 4mm away from the bottom of the E string. If you fret at the last fret and pluck as hard as you can the string should not hit the pickup nor should there be phasing. Pickup heights are vary personal personal this way you will get no issues but maybe not the hottest output. I could write a full on essay about various other set up problems and remedies. Watch setup videos, read my little guide and hopefully it will all make sense. Hope what ive written helps.

Here is an easy way to set up a bass, with household tools that should give you a very playable bass and a pretty standard setup. Tools need are a 4mm or 3/16 Allen key for the truss rod, a 2.5 mm allen key and a 2mm allen key. Also a small allen key or small flat head screwdriver for the bridge saddle adjustment. Finally a standard business card like the ones from a taxi company not a plastic credit card etc they are too thick. Of course if you can invest in the correct tools but this method is fine for getting a bass in playing condition, for someone with limited tools. First tune your bass normally then fret at the first fret and then with your elbow of your right arm hold down the e string at about the 17th fret. This is so you can check the relief of the neck, place the business card corner first in between the 7th fret of the E string while its still held down at the first and last fret. It should slide in nicely if it doesn't fit in as the gap is too small then the neck is too straight and needs more relief, if it fits in but there is also a gap the neck has too much relief (too bent). the card should just fit in there nicely maybe a very slight drag. Business cards tend to be around .010 - .015" in size which is around about the average in most factory specs for relief. If you tighten the truss rod turning it right it will make the gap smaller, left for increasing the gap. This is of course while your looking at the nut right on if your holding the bass tightening looks like your going left and vice versa!. Assuming the truss rod access is in the headstock. Ok so turn the allen key small turns at a time, then check the relief as above, remember each time you tighten or loosen the truss rod you must put the A string back and re tune all the strings so you get an accurate reading of the relief. Its time consumming and can sometimes be a pain in the bum but has to be done right. Once you have the relief set, then we adjust the bridge saddle to alter the final string action (height). There are a two different areas to measure the string height at the 12th and 17th fret i suggest if you play hard we go for the measurements at the 12th if you play lighter the 17th fret. There is also of course the fact nearly everyone likes a different string height but, 2.5mm - 2mm is about standard. To measure the height get your 2.5mm allen key and i will assume you have chosen to measure from the 12th fret. and without fretting the string measure the height of the E string from top of the fret to the bottom, and adjust at the bridge saddle so again the allen key slides nicely in and out with very slight drag. Make sure the bridge saddle is level it does not need to be angled, also while taking measurements make sure the bass is in relativly the same position you play, as necks move slights amounts at different angles. Ok So once the E is at 2.5mm you can set the A, D and G in this way the final G string should be 2mm. So maybe E and A could be 2.5mm and D and G 2mm in height from the top if the 12th fret to the bottom of the string. And again after every single small movement of the strings you make at the bridge every time before the height is rechecked it need to be put back into tune. The bass other than now needing to be intonated should be in very reasonable playing condition. If you dont have a 2.5mm allen key a 3/32" one gives you about 2.4mm. Feel free to set the string height higher or lower, but using allen keys or even drill bits do a good job of measurements. 4mm is the heights action that could be considered playable, under 2mm is low but the lower you go the more buzzing you might get if you hit the strings hard. Buzzing from frets 1 to 7 indicate too little relief, buzzing in the higher frets indicate to low an action, buzzing all over might indicate just that your playing too hard for the setup. Then you would set intonation, and recheck the string heights (adjust if needed) if the intonation was well off it will change string height on adjusting. Sometimes you have to go back and forth a bit, setting the action and intonation. I could write a full on essay about various other set up problems and remedies. Watch setup videos, read my little guide and hopefully it will all make sense. Hope what ive written helps.

Decided to go for the modification. I have a question how much does a used East uni 02 4 knob pre amp go for? As I will probably get it sold.

I know when I had a trace Elliot it taken me a long time to get used to it's tone which I never liked, however I did get used to it. And after I got rid of it for a while other amps sounded very different.

[quote name='BassBunny' timestamp='1461692316' post='3036867'] Here's a solution. If you use a passive blend, there is likely to be an overall volume drop as you blend one way or another. Noll make an active Blend which gets rid of this issue and actually has 2 small driver amps in each part of the circuit so you can set each pickup gain seperately. Called the "Mixpot" http://noll-electronic.de/guitar-electronics/mixpot/ This would, IMHO, be a perfect answer and the battery boxes would be used. The switches could be whatever you like, even DFA's. I wired a passive blend once and I didn't like it. [/quote] There is no volume drop at all when switching or blending. First bass I've had without volume drop issues. That of course doesn't include if I've boosted with the eq but I don't.

[quote name='hubrad' timestamp='1461688511' post='3036804'] I took the East pre out of my Overwater J5 - bought used - and frankly don't think about the impact on value. I already knew that bass is a very long term keeper! If you're likely to shift the bass on in a while, but don't enjoy the pre, take it out but keep it on one side for selling day. If the bass is a keeper, sell the pre and buy a few sets of strings! ;-) [/quote] Well I think it's a keeper and selling the pre amp I guess would indeed let me stock up on strings or get a new luthery related tool.

[quote name='chriswareham' timestamp='1461687089' post='3036774'] Anyone know what Acoustic Control Corporation did to make their solid state amps sound so good compared to other SS models of the day? I think mine runs internally at 70v which suggests limitations similar to the early tranny amps, but it's very loud, with lots of bottom end and not much noise. [/quote] You should of just said it has the heft! Lol

Turned down just the high mids a bit after seeing another thread on the amp slight tweak of the bass. Tone to me is much improved. I wonder if as well I'm getting used to the tone of a different amp.

[quote name='Rich' timestamp='1461684561' post='3036740'] What's the bass? [/quote] Jim fleeting custom 4 string.

I really don't use my john east pre as in passive it sounds the same as the flat eq. And it has a passive tone control which I use. I tend to use the amp eq for adjustments. I think the nordstrand big singles sound nice passive. I also find the pre injects a slight amount of noise. My thoughts are remove the pre and go Vol, tone, tone, blend. Right now it's vol/blend, treble/bass, mid/sweep, passive tone. And two switches active passive and a mute switch. I'm concerned about the impact on the value of the bass and it will leave a redundant 18v battery box on the back. Also the passive, active switch would need to be maybe a pickup selector might be useful though, set the blend then have access to three different tones via the switch. Thoughts?

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1461665469' post='3036510'] [/quote] Errm is that looped! I thought you said you won't use a looper too. Traitor! Haha

This thread is now suitably geeky I wouldn't mind trying some old equipment just for curiosity's sake. Some must still be running somewhere.

[quote name='gapiro' timestamp='1461600063' post='3036019'] Thats german you fool! [/quote] No this is German Vith mein superior class D technologie I vill show zie whole world mein Heftenschlowisden!

[quote name='Number6' timestamp='1461608823' post='3036139'] Never had any problems with Alphas tbh..... [/quote] Ha and how many pots did Alpha fill your pockets with for that statement! As said I've had basses and amps that have had them in and been fine. Just I noticed with alarm every time I've had a bad pot 90% I look and it's an Alpha. I have no doubt millions are still going strong.

Mini pots in general annoy me. I think they sound the same but they don't last as long in general.

Why do companies that should no better and that charge high prices continue to use alpha pots? There performance is fine and I don't mind there feel but there failure rate after a while is definitely higher and they get crackly earlier than other pots I'm sure. Three times now in the last two months I've seen alpha pots in a bass and two amps need replacing or a good! cleaning. Compared too one cts pot in three years. In fact all pots surely should be better sealed! Alpha pots just say no! Disclaimer I do know other pots fail just alpha from my own experience are the worst offenders. I've also seen old alphas work totally fine!.

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1461591472' post='3035900'] Out of the small number of amps I've owned (Sunn, Trace Elliott, Ashdown, EBS, Glockenklang, Markbass) my favourite was most probably the Ashdown ABM 1x10 300 watt combo I had. I never even bothered with the tone controls, used the button that takes them out of the circuit all the time. Fantastic amp, wish I'd never sold it. [/quote] I believe the 1x10 abm combos have been used on a few albums. Apparently there/were a good studio amp.

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1461590867' post='3035895'] Well it is written into the BC commandments. 1) Thou shalt ask the weight of every bass for sale regardless of whether one intends to buy the bass in question. 2) Thou shalt not criticize barefaced products, they we're crafted by angels from trees felled in the sacred forest and are beyond reproach ... especially the handles. 3) Thou shalt ask which bass is best for metal at every opportunity. 4) Thou shalt start a new thread discussing the merits of relicing if the previous one has received no replies for a period of 3 days. 5) Thou shalt suggest gear thy currently own to anyone asking a which bass / which amp / which pedal is best question. 6) Thou shalt always refer to thy vintage Fender as "one of the good ones" 7) Thou shalt declare a "final price drop" a week after listing a bass for sale and withdraw it in a huff a couple of days later if it does not sell. 8) Thou shalt reply "it's all in the fingers" to any thread discussing tone. 9) Thou shalt declare all class D amplifiers to be lacking in "Heft" 10) Thou shalt advise anyone asking about upgrading their gear to spend the money on lessons instead. ... oh and 11) Thou shalt buy all thy cables from OBBM. [/quote] Yeah sounds about right

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1461528386' post='3035487'] Our Guitarist in the late 60s decided a Vox T60 would be netter than an AC30. It was basically one channel of a (not very good) HiFi amp. Noisy as hell and no real power. It and its ilk are probably why SS amos have a bad name to this day. On the other hand, the HH 100W amps that came a few years later were awesome (although still a little noisy) Still got two of their 100W bass amps. [/quote] I've read the t60 bass amp often overheated as it was always producing sound in a frequency above what humans could hear, so it was being driven well beyond its specs and would go into melt down.

I should mention what sound I'm getting isn't bad at all just not my thing probably sound great if I could play like geddy lee.

[quote name='Dan Dare' timestamp='1461589228' post='3035869'] Ditch the Rotosound rounds? Not nice sounding strings imho. Clanky and harsh. [/quote] Indeed! Still going to try rounds again but going with the fender pure nickel ones.