Buzz

Well, bending wood is more about getting it wet than using heat. Steaming is just a quicker method than letting it soak. I would have also thought it would be better for the bending as like you mention, it'll soften the glue up as well, but wood glue is fairly flexable anyway.

[quote name='Bay Splayer' post='476180' date='Apr 30 2009, 04:59 PM']does your bass maker do [b][color="#000000"]neck-thru [/color][/b]too [/quote] Here's your coat sir, the door is to the left

[quote name='AndyMartin' post='499573' date='May 28 2009, 08:13 AM']What difference did that make? I find the valve in my ABM goes from having not a lot of effect to full on farty distortion within about an eigth of a turn of the level control, and I've been thinking about changing it to get a more gradual breakup. It's an Electro Harmonix 12AX7 at the moment[/quote] Chances are you'll want a lower gain tube, as the 12AX7 (aka, ECC83) has a gain factor of 100, look for a 12AT7 (ECC81) which has a gain of around 60. Also, as it's about time it gets pimped on here again after certain childish incidents caused it's disappearance: [b][url="http://finnbass.com/showthread.php?t=22"]http://finnbass.com/showthread.php?t=22[/url][/b] Bryceee's Pre-amp (and all round) Valve Comparison thread. It's awesome. Go read. That applies to everyone!

You probably could have steamed in a bit of a gentle curve in it to make it easier to fit. Just a thought. It's quite a tidy job though.

I'm with Rich, the guitar version looks great, and I want to have a go on one, I've heard they're very good, although, they should be when some models are over £2k iirc.

PowerTab I think will at least generate tab if not score from midi files iirc, it has been a number of years since I used it though.

How much better is my current to my last? Well as my current in a Squier VMJ and my last bass (which I've still currently got) was a Jap non export Fender Aerodyne, I'd say roughly on par. The Jap does feel better all round, but I much prefer the looks and pup combo on my VMJ, and the body cutaways.

Parts basses allow you to get what you want in a bass if you can't get it in a production model. Although, I'd point out that the reason why companies like Warmouth charge more for parts is because items like the necks are of good quality, come to think of it, I can't think I've heard a bad word out any Warmouth necks.

[quote name='allighatt0r' post='501298' date='May 29 2009, 10:47 PM']What bridge would you put on it? Something like a bent tin fender or a big chunky modern looking thing would just not fit the bass look...[/quote] I think a Hipshot Model A type would look brilliant on it. Possibly would consider a Hipshot Supertone as well.

[quote name='The Funk' post='501380' date='May 30 2009, 02:31 AM']You'll... [i]walk[/i] it. No? Did that weak pun not even register? -_-[/quote] The force is weak in that one Good luck tho Bilbo! Break a leg, just not your fingers!

Just do it, I think that with the paint on it damaged in such an un mojo like way people wouldn't be keen on it anyway and it wouldn't be worth normal rates, so I don't think you'd lose the value of the refin. You'd probably have to keep a before and after photo to show people why it was refinished, that might claim part of the percieved value back if you did decide to sell.

Matchbox Thomas / Matchbox 20 Twenty do have quite a number of good songs, I suppose I should hunt an album or two down one of these days.

Interesting choice of the Gibbo 3 point bridge on it, considering it's not very good.

If you haven't already, give this thread a read: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=8009"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=8009[/url] It'll help point you in the right direction regarding choosing one.

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='498775' date='May 27 2009, 02:22 PM']Fender first started using high mass bridges in 1981.[/quote] As part of their standard model ranges? Eg, the American Standards and such?

Apart from the greater sustain and transmission of notes from the strings to the body, my personal belief is that it's only held in such popular use because it was the first proper redesigned bridge for Fender basses and it got used by lots of people. There's also the fact it's simple, reliable and it works. Now Fender after 25ish years(!) of the Badass being out have finally got around to bringing out their High Mass Bridge means that I wouldn't be looking to replace a bass that has a HMV fitted. I'd also look at the Hipshot or Gotoh replacements as they both do direct replacements if I get another Fender style bass with the bent tin as they're cheaper.

Some comments on here seem to be erring towards using compression for limiting purposes. Compressors even out the sound to a (generally) uniform level AND perform limiting on the top peaks, if you still want protection from spikes but want the dynamics, you mostly just want a limiter. There was an awesome thread on either here, BW or BT about the merits of a compressor vs limiters which had the roundabout conclusion that people don't need compressors as much as they think they do.

B*stard.

I think Danelectro '63s come in at around £160, which come in at either 30" or 32" short (one or the other) and a 34" normal.

I honestly thought this was going to be about the sweeties and the build up before launching into a packet. I'm slightly dissapointed.

Learn to play righty like I and others have? Probably looking at a second hand MIA Jazz or equivilant really if you can get about £600 together, should be able to pick up a lefty with a bit of hunting.

Search is handy: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=36637"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=36637[/url] for the first thread about them on here, and then [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=49491"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=49491[/url] for the one posted last week. Doesn't look like they go lefty though, and they're much closer to the proper Gibsons than the bog standard Epiphones: Different neck profile and width, neck through. New features are the laminated neck and the active electronics, they should play better than the bolt ons, whether it sounds as good as a passive t-bird no-one knows until they hit the shops in early July. I'm looking forward to it

Ah, but that's the point, knowing how to work them out means you can learn them quickly. I've worked the first 5 frets out across all the strings quite easily by the above method, you work it out and commit them to memory, it eventually sticks and you can just go "hmm, B, 2nd fret A string" etc without thinking about it.

Slight tangent as I was listening. Anyone played The Fleet in Pompey on Sunday the 24th May? If so, like I said while drunk, props to using a Chapman stick live and the Eden 4x10 and 1x15 stack sounded lush out in the audience.

I'd say there is something to knowing the fretboard quite well, but in all honesty, you only have to learn upto the 12th fret (octave) and know the shortcuts to where the notes repeat, eg, 7th fret on the E string is a B, which is also the 2nd on A, 9th fret on D and the 4th on the G. Or E is open on the E string, 12th on E, 7th on A, 2nd on D and 9th on G etc. Once you know the shortcuts, the fretboard becomes quite easy to work and understand because those shortcuts also work backwards. It also means you can follow the guitarist should they shout out chords, you get told it's a say C chord, then go to the root and work from there.