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bassmayhem

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Everything posted by bassmayhem

  1. [quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1416328520' post='2609102'] Something a bit different! Nice to see old basses surviving and still being used I saw a couple of Hagstroms - if my memory serves me - but don't think I ever saw one like this What a great friend Thanks for posting [/quote] Yes, most of the old Hagström instruments were kinda Mickey Mouse-ish. This was the first real solid body bass before the fantastic Super Swede bass. (The original name was just DeLuxe, but a British magazine called it Super Swede, hence the change of name...) And - my friend is a gem. A gem in human shape!
  2. Done! The whole bass... The body... The head... Southwards... Double strap buttons - perfect for parking the bass... The only thing not working is the tone control, be it the pot or the capacitor. Probably change to a Stellartone ToneStyler. I'll change the disgusting plastic nut (original) to a bone or graphite nut too. Yes, the pups are not exactly parallel. The neck pickup is slightly off axis. (Original Hagström vintage work...) Maybe I'll change them to some black pups when I add the ToneStyler, just to make it look nicer. It sounds really good, though. Very snappy, despite the all mahogany design. All metal parts except the tuning pegs are changed. Then just cleaning, polishing, oiling, wax on - wax off...
  3. [quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1416139771' post='2607214'] That might be the key here. I inferred OP had a Jazz bass for some reason. The positioning of the bridge pickup on Jazz basses seems to accentuate certain harmonics, though I'm not sure about the physics behind it other than that the amplitude of the string is attenuated as you get closer to the bridge... [/quote] The closer you get to the end of the string, the more harmonics can be detected, as long as the string vibrates enough. Over a P-pup the amplitude (of the fundamental) is so big that it drowns a lit of the overtones more or less. Another thing to do if you don't want to carve up a P-bass: install a piezo bridge. That may do the trick, but you will also get all the mechanical sounds amplified...
  4. I swapped my Spirocore for Weich a week ago. The "Like Factor" is very high. What is the main difference to Spiro Core? (Remember, this is my own subjective conclusion...) - First, they are softer to the fingers. - They sound a tad weaker, but have a tone that is a little "hammock shaped and snappier". - Also, I could bow them basically without rosin, only [i]Hans Andersson's Liquid Rosin[/i] impregnated in the horsehair, none on the strings. - Another difference is that they sound better amplified in my "somewhat boomy rig" when I run the Realist straight in. I use a Streamliner 900, that itself is very low freq friendly. The cab I used was not the perfect cab for an acoustic upright: my TKS H115 with tweeter, a cab that is very efficient in the low register. Then, the Realist itself enhances the lows quite a bit. I had to tweak the eq a lot to find a useful tone. When I used my EBS MicroBass II it was a major difference. I connected it to the amp's Aux In and bypassed the tube preamp. Night and day! Well, back to the strings... No downside? Well, they took some days to settle properly, since the core is synthetic they stretch a bit, but that is just to be expected. I really liked the power of the SpiroCore, but the tone and feel of the Weich is so nice, even if they have a bit lesser volume they are winners. There is a thing to notice: in the Pirastro website they state the Weich strings (and maybe the whole EP series, I didn't check) are only available in 3/4 scale. I contacted them about that and they answered: The set works for both 3/4 and 4/4 basses. Mine is a 4/4 bass with 110 cm (43,3") scale, and they fit perfect.
  5. The best way to enhance harmonics on a P-bass is swapping it for a J-bass, or at least putting a bridge pickup on it. The P-bas is kinda limited in doing the Jaco things, due to the pickup placement.
  6. Quality costs! Rolls Royce costs! Are they so much better? They don't need to - they're RR...
  7. I've had two 55-02, still have one, as well as a US 55-94. These basses have B-strings to die/kill for. The difference between the 55-02 and 55-94 is marginal, mostly the touch of the neck - oiled on US, laquered on Skyline - and somewhat heavier Skyline. The B-string is fundamental. I have a Yamaha JP2 also, it has the same 35" scale and a really firm low end, but still the Lakie B is in a league of its own. I have never played a Lakie with the LH3 system, though, just two generations of Barts...
  8. The body and neck are both mahogany. I feared they would make a midrangey tone, but it is as twangy - maybe even more twangy - as my old Fender J'78. I'd say it sounds like an ordinary Jazz Bass with Badass and DiMarzios. About the colour combo: the body and the neck are both the same colour, not only the face of the head. Tomorrow, hopefully, I'll get it ready to play.
  9. [font=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif][size=3]An old friend gave me a bass, partly functional, as a restoration project, just like that.[/size][/font] [font=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif][size=3]It is an old Hagström Jazz Bass/Scan Bass. During a transition period the basses had different names, no names, a lot of different parts and pickups. This one has no labeling other than Hagström. My friend bought it second hand around '82. It was "rather beaten up and distressed" already. It is playable, but the electronics must be fixed. It is an early one, so it must have passed 40 by now.[/size][/font] [color=#333333][font=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif][size=3]I've straightened the neck and swapped bridge to an old Badass II. To my surprise the old pups work, even if I had to fasten the pole pieces and glue them with super glue. The only things I need to buy are screws for the pick guard and pups, and one and a half set of strap locks. (There are two strap buttons at the body end; perfect when putting down the bass...) The neck is FANTASTIC, btw. [/size][/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif][size=3]The pick guard is a piece of quality; three layer black-white-aluminium plate(!) making the bass heavily shielded and grounded.[/size][/font][/color] [font=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif][size=3]Friends like this don't grow on trees...[/size][/font]
  10. A friend bought my MP Guitars Level 6 some year/years ago and have it up for sale. I told him about your thread... The bass - a nice bass - is for sale at a very good price. It is the bottom one in MY sales pic. (All basses sold...) Fender 3/4" spacing @ bridge, around P-bass spacing @ nut. Nice, rather flat C neck, 35" scale. Barts and all Hipshot. Incredibly light and extremely well balanced. If you are interested, please, send me a message and I'll get you in touch...
  11. [quote name='dood' timestamp='1414502225' post='2589882'] This is a great post. There are so many myths I hear on a regular basis about gear compatibility and for example power handling that perpetuates further misinformation. I'd love to see a single resource online that explains away so many falsehoods with your clarity and ease of understanding. [/quote] TKS used to have some very informative links on the webpage. (tks.se) I cannot find them now, I think the page is under reconstruction. I hope the links will be up again...
  12. I suppose you're not interested in a swap? I got a beautiful 55-94 deluxe, but is more of a Jazz Bass guy... [IMG]http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd169/bassmayhem/3-Thethreemusketeers_zps7efab81d.jpg[/IMG] The one at the bottom...
  13. Compard to my previous cabs, a quadruple of Eden D112XLT's, the TKS cabs are very flat. The Eden cabs are HONKY in comparison...
  14. [quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1414450935' post='2589516'] Really liking the look of the S212. Anyone voice an opinion on how "neutral" sounding these cabs are? [/quote]What is neutral? They sound very, very good with four string basses. They sound very good but not that deep with five string basses. It is a matter of needs and taste, really. If you are a "sub bass player" better look at the deeper models. For four string playing they are all you need at a good price and low weight. This is no "bang for the buck" thing - it is a real bang...
  15. [quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1414071718' post='2585505'] Oh FFS... the last thing I need is cab GAS.. good thing they aren't green like these or I'd be in trouble. [/quote] A pair of cabs in British Racing Green with creme colour front frame would definitely be the thing... My favourite variation on the theme is black cabinet, creme front frame and 50*s Fender grille cloth. I've ordered a pair of the new compact 115's in that colour, just like my 2126 cabs...
  16. [quote name='Telebass' timestamp='1414224351' post='2587180'] A Fender 5, which has standard 19mm spacing, is quite wide enough... [/quote] Which Fender five string has 19 mm spacing? None I've played anyhow...
  17. [quote name='Dazed' timestamp='1414077081' post='2585593'] I've recently been looking at warwick 6 strings again. It's probably gas but I think I'm on a slippery slope! I haven't tried a 6 string for years, one was a Larrivee which I couldn't get on with but didnt persevere with and a friends ken smith, then went back to 4s only for a long while. Last year I got a couple of 5 strings which I didn't feel was much of a struggle to feel comfortable playing, however I find a string spacing of 16-17 mm just too narrow. From what I've read, standard warwick 6 spacings are 16-17mm and broadneck versions are 20? Warwick fans seem keen on broadneck models. Is there any advantage ? I know a broadneck must be quite a heavy lump given the size and Warwicks aren't generally the lightest of instruments! [/quote] If you are used to play Fender type basses then all five strings with narrow spacing will feel "not at home" if you got my point. I got some five string Laklands as well as a Yamaha JPII with 19 mm (3/4") spacing at the bridge; they feel the same in the fingerboard and in the right hand, even if the neck is wider. There is space for occasional slap playing etc. NEVER again a bass with narrow spacing! "The neck feels comfortable." Kiss my *ss!! I don't play on the neck - I play on the strings on the fingerboard and "over the pups"...
  18. [quote name='JD1' timestamp='1412921048' post='2573241']... Its a shame this one is being discontinued in favour of the smaller version... [/quote] I tried the new smaller version att Tommy's workshop two nights ago and ordered two, just like that, one with tweeter and one without. I got two of his 2126 already, so this setup will be perfect when light package is required. I am no fan of 15" cabs, had them for 30+ years and left in favour of 12" cabs. But - the size and tone of this 115 is a hit. The cabs will have the same appearance as my big ones: black tolex on the "body", crème tolex and 50's Fender brown grill cloth for the front, like my big ones: The size of the new is sheer joy: This must be one of the smallest and lightest 115 cabs around...
  19. After having gathered the courage for two weeks I have mounted a Realist on my bass. It went geschwint, a walk in the park, etc ... Anyway, it sounds really good. I plugged it into my Bose system, into the ToneMatch mixer, put it without "pre-shape Realist tone match", just straight. I cut the bass 6 dB and boosted midrange and treble an ounce. Then I played, and varied volume over time. It sounds almost the same acoustic as amplified, but with a touch more sub lows. An ounce of reverb makes more room in the tone too. I'm pleased.
  20. [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1407765846' post='2523721'] Based on my experience I'll have to disagree. The Gus and Sei basses may be expensive luthier-built instruments, but the Warwick is a MiK Pro Series and still easily out-performs any 35" scale bass that I've played. IME the biggest obstacle to getting a decent low B on a 34" bass is having a bolt-on neck. The only BO 5-string bass with a 34" scale I've played that has been any good is my Yamaha BJ5B which is essentially a limited edition (only 50 made) TRB II with an SBV shaped body and headstock so hardly a standard bass. Gus basses are in [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/66328-bigredxs-weird-wonderful-basses"]this thread[/url] and the Sei can be seen [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/136517-fretless-porn/page__view__findpost__p__1235459"]here[/url]. [/quote] Really nice basses!!!
  21. [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1407762213' post='2523672'] Not at all true IME. Good construction and the right choice of string to match the bass a far more critical than an extra inch of string length. Any luthier capable of making a good sounding 5-string with a 35" scale length will be able to make one just as good with a 34" scale. None of the 35" scale basses that I've owned have had a low B that could compete with my 34" Gus, Warwick or Sei basses. [/quote] That's the thing. Most bass players don't play luthier's basses, but factory basses. Still I believe your Gus, Warwick and Sei would have had even better B-strings with 35" scale. But that's me. These basses are not comparable with the ordinary Fender, Music Man or Ibanez kind of basses. All 34" scale five strings I've tried had anemic B-strings compared to my Lakland. I also have a Yamaha JP2 that is thunderous, but not close to the Lakie coming to clarity and definition. My 34" five string basses I had through the years were more of a bad excuse to put yet another string on. I'd love to see pic's of your Gus and Sei basses, BigRedX...
  22. Since the low B has a frequency of 30.87 Hz and a wavelength of 11 meters (33.5 ft) an electric bass is nothing but a poor excuse to produce such low notes. What we hear is in fact mostly overtones. The shorter and fatter the string, the lesser overtones and a dull tonal quality appears. I'll be bold and state: B-strings require at least 35" scale to sound decent. The best sounding B-string I've ever heard is on my US Lakland. The tone of the E on the B string differs just slightly from the open E string.
  23. [quote name='ambient' timestamp='1407675062' post='2522820'] I don't drive so it's trains and tube . I was looking at the wheels, they do look like a good idea, not sure it'd be good for on trains though, where I'd just prop the bass up in the corner. One I caught last week had bike storage areas that the guard said to use, so it spent an hour happily propped there. [/quote] I met a guy in NYC last spring; he toted his 19th century bass all around the city seven days a week on the Metro on a "peg wheel" in a bag...
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