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bassmayhem

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  1. Well, today the first of two TKS D2126 "Bass Mayhem Edition" arrived. The next one arrives during next month, due to late order from my side. It will be exactly the same, no tweeters. Black tolex on the box, crème on the front frame, Fender tweed era cloth over metal mesh. Nice, eh...?
  2. I have just seen the instrument, never played it. A professional technician has done some work on the electronics so it is fully operable. (Was that the correct word?)
  3. A friend has an old EUB he wants to sell, a really weird thing. I have promised him to post pictures of it. He has no price idea so far, so this is more to see as a presentation of a peculiar instrument ... Herrnsdorf is the name of the bass; there is not much information about it, though it's rather sweet ... Is there anyone who knows anything about these instruments?
  4. Yep! I said it was stupid... I have a lightweight top on order too. It will work fine with one TKS D2126 cab. Then I have an ultra light weight 1000 W rig too...
  5. If you are talking about looks and appearance as clones, well, there aren´t that many possibilities to build a cab in a unique design without getting ridiculous. This design is unique and no clone, and ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS:
  6. [quote name='Thunderpaws' timestamp='1379081044' post='2208479'] Hello, Is the power rating 250 watts for the 112? And for the 12/6? And is the power handling a conservative estimate or bang on? Cheers, g [/quote] The 112 is 250 W RMS. The 1126 is 450 W RMS, but has a bit lower efficiency, so you need a powerful amp to feed. I will use a 2 x 1100 Watts power amp for my two D2126 at 900 W RMS. Here is a Google Translation from TKS' website, with all grammatical errors and such: [indent=1][i]Power handling is one of the most requested specifications when it comes to speaker boxes , but actually one of the least interesting . Power rating says nothing about how strong the speaker box play , how strong the amplifier can be used , or how much power you can use before the speaker box can not cope with / starts to sound bad. Power handling capacity is a measure of the average power voice coil in the speaker driver is capable before so much heat that develops risk of harm occurring.[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]What is the average power , and how it looks when you play bass? One way to answer that is to look at a clip of bass playing in a regular audio editing :[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i][/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]In this particular piece , you can see that a notice about 1 /3 of the maximum amplitude , ie the strongest and most sound effects needed for amplifying the signal if you play through an amp . The rest of the signal is several dB lower , and it is possible to calculate an average of the signal can be compared with the strongest value. When it comes to bass then appropriations usually much stronger than the average of the signal. To take the five different sound clips that you can listen to here on the website so is it about 12dB between the mean and the maximum value in the audio clip to the left (finger playing, P- bass), and for the following audio clips 10, 15 , 15 and 17 dB.[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]How it translates to an amplifier ? 10 dB difference means 10 times the difference in power level , and 20 dB difference means 100 times difference. If you set an amplifier's volume knob so the amplifier just manages to play the strongest allocations without starting distorting use the maximum power ( peak) . An amplifier leaves about twice as much peak power as the RMS label. This means that if you played the audio clip # 2 ( distorted bass, plectrum ) with a 500W amplifier squeezed to the max as above the peak power is about 1000W while the average power is 100W .[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]The sound clip with distorted bass is the clip on the website that provides the maximum average power compared to the maximum effect. In the last clip ( slap ) is the biggest difference, because that type of playing gives very strong attack compared to the average level. Had the volume is set according to the previous example with 1000W peak was 17 dB below the mean level yielded an average power of only 20W.[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]By using effects like compressor , distortion and play tightly and faster (eg eighths in higher tempo ) you can get up average power , but it is difficult to get a difference of peak and average that is less than 6 dB, which corresponds to a difference in power by a factor of 4 ( which would mean 250W average power from 500W amplifier in exempelt on previous page). Therefore, one can usually use an amplifier with twice the power of labeling the speaker box .[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]Eminence , the company that makes the speaker drivers used in the full range test their products using a signal having at least 50W higher average power than the label on the speaker driver , and with a peak power of 6 dB (ie, 4 times the power ) above the mean. Loudspeaker element must be able to endure signal for eight hours without in any way damaged. In practice it means that the speaker driver, for example, 112 ( 250W ) is tested with a signal with 300W average power and 1200W peak power . A test signal which differ only a few dB between maximum and average level looks obviously different in a sound editing compared to the bass signal , such as :[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i][/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]Please compare with the sound clip on the previous page .[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]To refer back to the beginning - power label says very little about the speaker box and its performance. When the average power from the amplifier often is between 1-20 % of the amplifier's power rating (and it provided one presses the amplifier hard) is not the output capacity so important, unless it is about 100W speaker cabinets combined with amplifier 1000W or similar, and provided that not abusing the equipment, for example by turning up all the amplifier's controls to max, which can cause harmful distortion.[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]When it comes to the parameters that actually plays a larger role in how strong and deep you can play without the speaker box protesters - please read the section on stroke:[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]Stroke is a measure of how far the cone of the speaker driver may move on before a certain distortion. Pressing the speaker elements of the stroke is usually most practical experience as to the speaker box starts to sound bad / lose strength.[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]Stroke length is measured in millimeters and differ a lot between different driver. Lower frequencies and more power requires more cone movement, so for deep clean bass at high volume is required excessive travel . Seemingly small differences in stroke can make a big difference - a doubling of stroke means you need four times the power required to reach the same level of distortion.[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]Many simpler speaker driver has a stroke of between 2-3 mm, which often gives the speaker cabinets that are not really good for playing bass guitar on a little higher level. Speaker elements used in tks range has all the stroke that varies between about 5-10 mm, which is above average and provide enclosure, which manages five string bass for powerful sound .[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]As drivers of different sizes move different amounts of air as they move the same distance can be calculated stroke * cone area , getting the stroke volume , which is a measure of how much air the speaker element moves per cycle at a certain distortion. The stroke volume listed is total for all elements of the speaker box that stands for low frequencies, and the stroke used in the calculation is the speaker element comes up in 10% distortion. By comparing the values ​​of the displacement can see which speaker cabinets that are most suitable for reproduction of deep, clean bass at high sound levels. To compare with is that many standard 10 "element has a displacement of 100 cc and the corresponding 15 " element often is about 2-300 cm ³ .[/i][/indent] [indent=1][i]It is worth adding that sounds ideal shooting a lot - a midrange focused sound does not set the same requirements for displacement as one where deep clean bass is of paramount importance.[/i][/indent]
  7. This may be stupid, but I like stupid sometimes... I started to build up a collection of bass preamps, not just to own, but to use when I'm playing live. One thing gives the other, all of a sudden I have a line mixer connecting them all together and send to... wait, I need a power amp. Here is where stupid starts. I got an offer I couldn't refuse and got a QSC PLX 3402 power amp, giving 2 x 1100 W RMS in 4 ohms. That is a perfect match for my new TKS D2126. Bridged it is pure killer: 3400 W RMS in 4 ohms!!! [IMG]http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd169/bassmayhem/20130828_192056_zps647fb4db.jpg[/IMG] My aim is not to maim but to please... This thing can play very very clean. You won't lose your good tone when changing the volume. Still, the rack is a heavy s.o.b. so I will move the power amp to a rack of its own and leave space for an old Trace Elliot Series 6 preamp I got for coffee money yesterday... Am I the only stupid person around in this time of light weight amplification...?
  8. If you like the 1126, then the D2126 is pure heaven. I've ordered two of them with the same appearance as this one: It will have the same black/crème vinyl, but the old brown cloth like on old Fender Tweeds, also two "TV screens" per cabinet front. I post pic's when I get them delivered...
  9. I've been browsing the market for old P-basses, but found out that I like the new ones better. Old isn't necessarily better, just older.
  10. Have you played a Gibson Thunderbird recently? Then you'll notice the bridge is placed too near the neck, making it almost impossible to adjust the strings so you only have the clean winding of the singing part of the strings over the bridge saddles. If you want the bass to intonate properly, you'll end up in the double winding for the ball end. Stupid! I've played three or more of the newer T-birds: the same on all of them. Someone hasn't done the thinking properly... Check this one out: ...or this one: This is bad. Really bad. It would be so easy to relocate the bridge to solve this. Guess why I didn't buy one...!
  11. I'd suggest a Lakland (Skyline). They make five string P-basses with their own "digit-combination-names". They used to be called Bob Glaub and Duck Dunn models before. The thing I like with Lakies is the familiar feel of the Fender string spacing, regardless of number of strings. 19 mm (3/4") at the bridge on the fivers. You don't have to adapt to another spacing and feel, just play...
  12. [quote name='adamlunt' timestamp='1373037456' post='2133095'] Just wondering... If you have a amp head with a DI out, do you still have to have a speaker cab? The reason I ask is because I use a MarkBass LM3 head and I have a cab that I take to gigs which is essentially just used as a monitor, and it tends to cause feedback with my singer's acoustic guitar. [/quote] A solid state amp can be run without speakers, just as preamp. A tube amp requires a load, or else the output transformer and/or other parts take harm.
  13. I'd switch to a Babicz Full Contact bridge if I were you. I put a Badass II on my J-bass back in '82, but now I'll change. [url="http://fullcontacthardware.com/home.htm"]http://fullcontacthardware.com/home.htm[/url] [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=2lBGAygCAZQ"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=2lBGAygCAZQ[/url]
  14. The first bass there was, was a Fender Precision with s.t.b. bridge. The only strings available were flatwounds. I have used Chromes on my P-bass and two of my Lakies, all of them strung them through the body. NEVER a broken string. Just remember to give the string "some rubbing and massaging " over the bridge saddle, ie. give it the proper curvature...
  15. Avoid them! They suck. Lasts as long as a bottle of Ale. One more thing that can break, and it does break...
  16. I got myself an old[i][b] Fender Studio Bass[/b][/i] combo a year ago, that sounds fantastic. The problem is when I used it on stage my band mates complained they couldn't hear me. They are used to hear me very distinctly through whatever solid state amp I've ever used. Its "wooliness" can get masked in the overall sound of the band. The single 15" woofer doesn't project that well compared to the 2x112, 4x112, 210, 410 and Bose rigs I use to use. My main amp for the moment is my old [i][b]EBS Gorm[/b][/i] 210 combo that really gets things going... This old amp is also a HEAVY s.o.b, with its single handle on top making it impossible to move. Also very top heavy... but sounds sooo good when I'm alone. It lives up to its name: Studio Bass - no hum or buzz at all at any volume, built in line send tapped from the speaker output etc. ..
  17. The best BASS amp to reproduce what you put in: Eden WT800B! Definitely! Bass preamp? Eden WP100 Navigator! Definitely! The best bass amp that colours your tone: Fender Studio Bass! Absolutely!
  18. Here is my Status Streamline... [IMG]http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd169/bassmayhem/1-Front_zps5d1c9781.jpg[/IMG]
  19. ...and my Skyline Hollowbody with Relay G50 system... [IMG]http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd169/bassmayhem/20130603_193325_zpsae453007.jpg[/IMG]
  20. Here is the beginning of my preamp collection. No pedals, just rack units... [IMG]http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd169/bassmayhem/Staumlrkarracket_zps6dcd8235.jpg[/IMG] Roland Rack mixer to connect the pramps to the power amp... Yamaha PB1 Ampeg SVP-Pro Eden WP100 Navigator More to come...
  21. Here is my pic: The Three Musketeers... The US Deluxe with roundwounds, the Skylines with Chromes, one fretless...
  22. The difference is more in the response for the player. I choose to always string through the body if the option is given. You get more downward pressure over the bridge saddles, especially if you have very low action. You won't get higher tension, that's a myth. It would mean higher pitch, and that isn't the case. I even string my Chromes that way, have NEVER snapped a string. Compare to a surface mounted anchor for a heavy shelf on the wall with a bolt right through the wall, if you know what I mean...
  23. [quote name='bassmayhem' timestamp='1368216392' post='2074664'] This setup sounds really good too: I have a "test week" with two TKS D212 cabs and my Eden WT1205. This setup sounds sooo good. The cabs has 2x12" and a tweeter each. They are lighter than the 2126 at some 50 lbs each, you can carry a cab with one hand without a problem. [/quote] I tested the D212 and the D2126 cabs side by side today. The D212 is really good, the D2126 is KILLER. I ordered one direct. The cab has somewhat lower efficiency, but sounds so well, just like a big studio monitor. Two 12" woofers and a 6" mid woofer, no tweeter! I also ordered it with a look reminiscent of 65Amps: Black tolex box, crème tolex front frame and 50's Fender brown-ish cloth (over a metal mesh). Pic's will come...
  24. This setup sounds really good too: I have a "test week" with two TKS D212 cabs and my Eden WT1205. This setup sounds sooo good. The cabs has 2x12" and a tweeter each. They are lighter than the 2126 at some 50 lbs each, you can carry a cab with one hand without a problem.
  25. I used to own this: [IMG]http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd169/bassmayhem/Pedalbordsenaste.jpg[/IMG] The upper row between the bass and the preamp, the lower row in the effects loop. The MXR/CAE booster as solo boost... I sold it because I didn't use it, and got a Boss GT-10B that I seldom use...
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