Jump to content

bassmayhem

Members
  • Content Count

    671
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by bassmayhem

  1. I had one of these before, but stupidly sold it. (Oh, you've also walked down that lane...?) My previous one had the Lundahl transformer (TX-L), but when Origin Effects re-released the unit, and my toy account was full, I just bought a new one, only this time the TX. I love the old style bakelite knobs and the massive looks of it. And the work it does, of course... I also have an Empress that is smaller and has parallel compression abilities. It is also more usable for "compressor effects" while this big old box more or less sits there and makes life easier...
  2. Exactly! Unlike other amps, you have to turn the knob very much before things start to happen. Maybe just that...
  3. I tried the Sumo 1000 a couple of times now, but I am not fully satisfied... I found the volume level kind of low with the Monique in front, compared to using my Genzler Magellan 350. I have to do some more testing befor I make my decision.
  4. An old thread, but interesting... I just found a second hand Sumo to use with my Jule Amps Monique and the new Genzler cabs arriving this week. The Monique dove cage into Sumo into BA 210-3 SLT and BA 15-3 SLT. Should be neat and devastating...
  5. Next week, my BIG Genzler Bass Array cabs will arrive. I sold my Super Bassman and 810 Neo, so I need something beefy to replace that rig. One BA 15-3 SLT and a BA 210-3 SLT. Amp head... not decided yet. Maybe the new Mesa TT-800 or the Bergantino Forte HP... 🤔
  6. The tiny Genzler Magellan 350/BA 10-2 rig has grown with yet another BA 10-2. Now it is just small. Ol' Steinie leans on the rig for comparison. From this... ...to this...! Perfect for small stages and/or my upright...
  7. If it weren't for the proper beast thing and one more thing, it just might have moved in my direction. The other thing is the T-factor. I am a bit sensitive to that... (Amps being wider than the cabs...) Fantastic, yet beastly, amp!
  8. Even though I am Swedish, I have never had an EBS rig as my first option. BASS amps, as they are, should be able to reproduce low end. The EBS stuff have a lot of low mid punch... The HD 350, TD 650 and the TD 360 have a rather awkward bandwidth: Frequency Response +0/-3 dB 35 - 20k Hz. The HD 360: Frequency Response +0 / -3 dB 20 - 20.000 Hz The EBS ProLine 410: Frequency Response 70 - 18k Hz I'd go for Dood's second hand amp. Won't break your back either...
  9. I had the little brother, the AH1000-12, a while. I bought it cheap, the guy said: "You have to change the preamp valves. I have new ones for you". 28 or so screws and some serious squeezing later I had the amp out of its cabinet/case. Then changed the valves, squeezed and put 28 or so screws in place, and it was ready to go. But it sounded GREAT. Yes! There are LOTS of screws. First the ones you can see, then the ones you see when you get the chassis out of the box... Nice amp anyhow. All rigs long gone...
  10. Payson Supercharger 5 Fan fret 37" - 34" all passive bass! Asymmetrical neck profile, hidden fret ends. Stainless steel thin frets. Nordstrand BigRig and NJ5S pickups. Like two Fender basses on steroids...
  11. I made a very simple video clip demonstrating the tone of the bass, and my Corona style haircut... Signal chain: the bass - Boss wireless - Genzler Magellan 350 w. straight eq - Genzler BA 10-2 - straight into the mobile phone's microphone. Nothing else. Well, I managed to upload the video clip, my very first one ever! This is no show off-video, just a little groove to illustrate the tone of the bass in my hands...
  12. What a beautiful bass...! The Nordstrand Big Splitman 5 with Lakland spacing in the bridge position, and the NJ5S in the mid/neck position. I used the original mini toggle switch to get series/parallel/70's coil mode. The pickup has four coils so it is humbucking in all positions, and I preferred the coil closest to the bridge to get the tone I like. The preamp is the stellar John East Uni Pre 5. It takes some thinking, squeezing and sweating to get things in place. I had to put the balance pot as the frontmost pot. The volume is just in front of the toggle switch.The two lower are mid/mid shift and bass/treble. The "rearest" pot is passive tone. https://nordstrandaudio.com/collections/5-string-music-man-bass-pickups/products/big-split-man-5?variant=48677049940 https://nordstrandaudio.com/collections/5-string-jazz-bass-pickups/products/nj5s-hum-cancelling
  13. This summer I put together a Corona Project Bass, a tribute to The First One. Not an exact copy, but a very good and functional modern take on the classic P'51. The details making biggest difference are the Babicz Full Contact Bridge and the super nice somewhat overwound humbucking version of the original style pickup made by Swedish Urban Pickups. https://www.urbanpickups.com/ https://www.facebook.com/UrbanPickups I don't like false labeled instruments, so I had a friend making me my own headstock logo in classic design. A nice bass all in all, if I am allowed to keep it. My cat has another opinion...
  14. My year of birth, and in better condition than me...
  15. bassmayhem

    Amp gain.

    My Fender Super Bassman - and the Bassman 100T I had - requires the gain set relatively high, since the noise level when cranking the power amp is immense. My Vanderkley Spartan has no gain control at all. When I asked Marc Vanderkley about it, he answered: "There is nothing in there you can overdrive". The little Quilter Bassblock 800 had no overload LED; Pat Quilter said: tweak with your ears - not with your eyes! My personal standpoint: set the gain high enough to get a decent signal with as little noise as possible when opening up The Big Tap. Decent signal? That's up to me. Or you. I prefer my Super Bassman to break up a bit when digging in, so gain at around 5, and master volume at 4 - 5. I tend to keep the Class D amps a bit cooler; no good idea letting them clip. No good tone comes out of that. Any kind of dirt or grunt, I add a tad with a pedal in front...
  16. Stock flats. No reason changing. I have three other basses with Thomastik flats: a P51' clone, a Dingwall Super P4 and my Payson Supercharger 5-string. Otherwise I use rounds on everything; even on my fretless. I tweak the neck as straight as possible - no relief - and raise the bridge saddles. I do that on all my basses. They always play in tune with minimal buzz. Also, the tone is better when the saddles are high and get that "downward pressure" from the strings. The nut is filed down to almost fret height; that makes the intonation at the lower frets much, much cleaner. Here is a trick if you file your nut too low, or have any other problem with the nut (as I had): - Mask the area around the string slot with tape! - Fill the slot with bicarbonate! (Use the blade of a small screwdriver as spatula.) - Add a drop of Super Glue! (Loctite) - Let harden! - File a new slot! I had to make a new string slot for the E- string, due to bad shaping from factory. Now all strings sit nice and firm. The only thing on the bass that was bad, was the nut. Bad shaped slots and poorly filed ends that stuck out a bit on both sides.
  17. I got myself a little blue Mustang last weekend. I am no fan of short scale basses, but this one was really neat... It took some setting up and tweaking, but now it feels like mine. (Btw, the thumb rest now rests in peace...)
  18. I promised a review after gig... We had a trio garden gig without PA support: worked fine, fine, fine! The rig is as loud as it is small, and sounds really, really good. With a tad of cut in the lowest register you can play louder than you would expect, and still the tone is fine. A hit!
  19. These amps are classic! I believe it has the weight of a Morris Minor, eh...? Is the effects chain fully stereo?
  20. This can be an effect of the Corona; I had to wait "a while" to get my Uni Pre.
×
×
  • Create New...