Maxcat

I need to bounce this off you guys. Playing towards the tail end of our first set last night my amp volume suddenly dropped to next to nothing. I couldnt adjust mid song so plugged away till the end. Before the next number, I tried to get my volume back by increasing the Master (on reflection not a good idea as there was obviously something amiss). The amp went wild when I played a note with the clip light doing sixteenths and a terrible distorted fast clip like sound at full volume. I wasnt running the amp above half volume if that. We stopped the set early and I tried to trouble shoot. Checked the 9V batteries in the Bongo (full charge) and all pedals powered. Power to the amp and both cabs connected. On plugging direct into the amp it worked fine so suspecting the pedal board, I played the next set direct to the amp. Ive just set up this morning to try and figure out what is wrong and unfortunately EVERYTHING works as advertised. So Im now thinking that its going to happen again mid set and I dont have a back up head. My set up is as follows Bongo HH into DHA VT2 OD into Tonebone Bassbone. Loop to Stereo Memory Man, OC2, EBS Autowah, Boss SYB3, Boss PH3 back to bassbone. Then output to BBE OptoStomp Compressor to GB Shuttle6.0 running at 4 Ohms into a GB 210T and 112Neox. Im a bit stumped TBH The only thoughts I have are 1. I had to run a 6 socket single power lead from the DJ booth which powered all my gear and the PA(I had an RCD to my gear). Could the venue have dirty power that got past my RCD? 2. The only pedal that was live in the chain was the DHA but it was in bypass. Is the valve on the DHA or the Shuttle on the way out which may explain the drop in volume? Any thoughts or troubleshooting tips would be most welcome Cheers Don

Tom you have a Brass Sectioned PM.

Ive only just started doing this but it works for me. I had to learn 2 full sets in a short time for a band I was depping for and have since joined with 30 songs that I knew but had never really played. I was having a hard time remembering which song was which. So I have a little folder set up on a music stand out of sight of the punters with the each song intro and any difficult segments/fills tabbed in bold on a score. Thing is I dont use it that often but a quick glance before the song is enough to refresh the memory. TBH I think its more of a safety net but it stops me flapping when my mind goes blank. Might work for you

In answer to your sub title "It Most Certainly Can". I have the Shuttle6 210T combo and a 112T Neox. Together they are the nuts. Great clarity punch and volume. At smaller gigs, I still take the 112T but dont connect it up, just using it to raise the combo and it has more than enough clout to carry the day. I had a slight clipping problem at the jam my band hosts when using the combo on its own with a couple of very bassy basses, but that was all down to my settings on the pre amp and is sorted. The combo is very loud, has great low end, but is very clear and precise in the mix. I wont be changing this rig and I would recommend it whole heartedly

Welcome. Another RG here tho via Gods Country

Toyota Celica 190. Seats flat fits both Genz cabs, 2 Basses ,Stagg EUB, Pedal train Junior,and my fishermans gig bag with leads, spares 2 stands and the Shuttle. Still got the passenger seat free.

There is space underneath the "high side" of the board to mount a power supply and the PT comes with the brackets for that. Ive got a Voodoo Labs Pedal Power 2 mounted there so if your pedal fits that footprint I think youll be all right. Hope this helps and sorry its a bit late

Good news Dave. Looking forward to coming down to a gig

OH BOLLAUX. I may have been had 2 minutes into it. Must sharpen up!

A bit of a shock but really well deserved for the guys. I hope you made a good whack Kiwi and Ped. My hopes are that it wont change the feel of the forum because without a doubt this is the best place for bass players to get together and share. In actual fact our guitard and drum bretheren have nothing close to this so we rule. However if it all falls flat on its proverbial in the future, Id like to thank all involved for the last year cos its all down to this site and the people that run/contribute that I have a. Returned from the non playing wilderness b. Joined a cracking little band and enjoying the hell out of it c. Improved my playing beyond measure d. Have become flat broke owing to excessive GAS and a spiralling out of control Effects addiction. Nice One

Right with you

Hi Beedster. The post shouldnt rattle around playing normally. Mine does when I try a bit of slappy stuff but that is just the pin inside the body and Andyalpha has a good fix for that. If the end pin is extended all the way out, it can feel unsteady as the pin kind of flexes but it still shouldnt feel loose. The other thing youll want to do is to dampen the strings between the tail and the bridge as they love joining in with everything else. I use a block of foam but a lot of guys wrap material around them. That might make a difference. All that being said, if the pin is visibly loose and cant be tightened, then I think it needs to be looked at. Hope this helps Cheers Don

Like many of you here I use OBBM almost exclusively for all my cable requirements. He recently sent me a pair of his new Amphenol patch leads to give them a try out. Prior to being introduced to OBBMs gear, I was firmly in the camp of "any old patch leads will do, how much difference can it make anyway". Thankfully I have been converted and as I say dont use any other leads than his. Anyway on to the review. The leads I have been trying out are both 300mm patch leads, one using a VanDamme cable and the other slightly slimmer Klotz La Grange cable ending in 2 right angled Amphenol connectors, although any length of lead can be made. [b][/b]Features 9[[b][/b] Not a feature laden item, but space saving is worth a comment .On first inspection, the connectors dont seem to be very much smaller than the standard Neutrik connectors, but in reality, when fitted to a board, they do really save space. I think its to do with the bowed shape of the Neutriks, and in a tight pedal board, the space saved is really valuable, giving me more options for pedal placement. Check out the link to OBBMs post to see the comparison. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=38673&hl="]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=38673&hl=[/url] [b][/b]Sound 10[b][/b] I have spent almost 30 years around jet engines so subtle audible nuances are almost lost on me, however I have to say that the clarity and depth of sound that these cables provide is a marked improvement to any of the mass produced patch leads that Ive used in the past. I ABd the cables with the standard OBBM Neutriks and to be honest, I couldnt tell much difference which to me is accolade enough. [b][/b]Construction 10 [b][/b] As always OBBMs attention to build quality is without fault. I think the pedal would break before these gave up [b][/b]Reliability 9 [b][/b] I have only been using these cables for a couple of months (hence 9), but through numerous gigs, board rebuilds and transportation, they have remained reliable and undamaged. I also base my assessment on the numerous OBBM cables and leads that I use, non of which has ever failed. [b][/b]Customer Support 10 [b][/b] Excellent. Ordering is only a pleasant phone conversation away. Ive never returned anything to OBBM but he would undoubtedly sort out any problem that day. [b][/b]Overall 10 [b][/b] The build quality, price, audible clarity, space saving properties and just good old fashioned friendly customer service mean that I would highly recommend these leads to any one looking for a high quality, bespoke, space saving patch lead. I thank you

Salutations and Huzzahs the Stagg is risen . Last night I spent a few hours trying to find away to attach the volume and sub bass spindles to the pots on the pre amp. Glue was too risky for obvious reasons and the hole is too small to get any sort of wedge into the housing. After a few tears and rants, I came up with the idea of making a little indent in the shaft with some snips to see if that would locate on the housing and hold the spindles in place. Partial success. Its not a permanent fixing, but the control knobs stay where they should be now. Its still quite easy to pull them off so I will just have to not pull them off. Anyway it works and I am now back in the land of functioning Stagg. Im also going to take Andyalphas recommendation and get the purpose built stand. It might be more Maxcat proof than the hercules. :blush: Cheers

[quote name='Andyalfa' post='437460' date='Mar 17 2009, 04:17 PM']I'd be gutted too if anything happened to mine. Amazing how quickly it's become one of the family. Given the fact that it sounds like a write off, you've nothing to lose by trying any of the first 4 options. Do you have instrument insurance at all?[/quote] yeah Ill try and claim on that if 1 to 4 dont work

Its a lot worse than I first thought. Guitar Tech took the cover off and gave one of those "Its Terminal" sighs.The pots are joined directly to a pretty complicated PCB pre amp. No way of unsoldering the pot cos the rest of the board will go wibble. Cant replace the shaft cos it doesnt come on its own and now he thinks the jolt through the knob has loosened the mountings of the board so that the sub bass pot is loose as well. One thing he was surprised about is that when you pull the control knobs off, only they should come out, but in both cases the spindles/shafts came out with the knobs. Shouldnt happen as they are almost rivet joined to the pots. Anyway 5 options are available 1) Live with it and pick up the knobs everytime I do a little shoogle 2) Replace the pre amp (knowing the way these mass produced things are, it will probably be 75% of the bass price) 3) Jam something down to wedge the shafts in. 4) Take a bottle check and put a little araldite on the tip of the spindle (gulp) 5) Get another Stagg That last one was a pretty expensive pint of guinness Gutted

[quote name='WarPig' post='436969' date='Mar 17 2009, 10:20 AM']Good luck Max! If thats what Guiness does to your basses im never touching the stuff [/quote] Thanks Warpig Fun though isnt it.

[quote name='OldGit' post='436856' date='Mar 17 2009, 07:59 AM']Oh nasty .. I hope it's a normal pot ..[/quote] Me too. Ill find out today and keep you posted. Guinness, for those who should know better!

I have unfortunately found a slight problem with the Hercules stand solution that OG and I use for the Stagg. Truth be told it was an A.I.S.F.M (Alcohol Induced Stupid Ferkin Mistake) however I thought Id relay this cautionary tale. I had a little gig last week that was just a few guys thrown together for a colleagues leaving do and as I was part of the party, I had more than a few sherbets before setting up. When I picked the Stagg up to start playing, the volume knob was bent up towards the neck. Seems in my pissed state I had put the stand into the Hercules collar but instead of the weight of the Stagg acting on the push fit arm as normal, it was fully supported by the volume pot. Not for long I dont think. Any way, when I got home, I took off the volume knob to try to bend the pot shaft back and it had disintegrated inside the knob. Not good. So Im now looking for a replacement shaft if I can find one or I may be forced to replace the entire pot. Im taking it into a guitar tech I use today but I cant leave it with him as Im gigging on friday. I dont suppose anyone knows if I can just get a replacement shaft and get away with it.

I think if you look further back in either this post or Stagg in Da House, there is a full explanation. To paraphrase, put one spigot in by pushing and rotating to loosen the push fit (being careful not to scratch the finish with the other spigot) Then take it out and do the same with the other spigot. They should then both just push in. Hope this helps

Sound advice guys. Relaxing with the red light now. It does sound good so I guess thats the bottom line. Cheers

[quote name='alexclaber' post='415339' date='Feb 20 2009, 02:23 PM']I think GB made a real mistake with having one light come on for both the soft compression and the final output limiter. However as you're only pushing a 2x10" I'd be hesitant to completely ignore it. Those basses that light it up constantly probably have a naturally bassier tone, hence higher power demands. Alex[/quote] Good advice Alex. I think Ill use the 2 cabs to combat the problem. Thanks

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='415246' date='Feb 20 2009, 01:18 PM']Is it the input or output clip light that is coming on? The input light will just drive the valve and the output light means the limiter is kicking in. It wont actually damage the amp but it may affect the sound. I do think you maybe need another cab. Thats why I got the NeoX rather than the shuttle cabs. As for the ungrateful c**ts, tell them they can supply the rig next time [/quote] Its the output light and the rig still sounds good so the limiters working. Im probably being a bit stiff about it. In all honesty the guys are not in the least bit ungrateful and dont mind me hovering around like a mother hen. So its just me being a bit obsessive and unsettled by the Genz designer comments. I could always take my Neox 112T as well then theres no way the limiter should be reached cos the ceiling should fall down before that. Also Ill take the advice of setting the gain and input a lot lower than I would for myself and leave the the Master Volume to handle the Loud. Thanks for the reassurance guys.

The real question is am I being too precious/paranoid? Here is the scenario. My band hosts a jam night every 5 weeks to which we provide the PA and Backline. My contribution is Shuttle 6 210 combo. Plenty loud enough for the gig and gets rave comments about sound from that itty bitty etc ( all heard before) Loads of different basses go through it with no problems and I tend to set it up for me and leave it. However, there are 2 basses that regularly play that light up the output clip/limiter almost constantly. (50s passive something and a vintage Jazz). My Ric/Bongo/Ibanez/Peavey/Stagg never get the clip/limit on and I play pretty loud. Now Ive read up on the whole clipping thing and am aware of the 6 db buffer on the shuttle output but there is also a thread on Talkbass where one of the Genz designers states that it is OK to have the clip light on for 50% of the time. With these two basses its on almost constantly so I find myself darting on stage when I know these guys are getting up and turning down the input levels. I feel a bit precious doing this and last night at the end, one of the guys with a vintage 50s passive something said in jest it must be said "next time you buy a bass amp, make sure it can handle a bass". Totally gutted cos I really am over the moon with the shuttle. Its pretty high end for me and TBH if it failed, I would be hard pushed to afford another one. Back to the original question. Am I being too precious/paranoid, or do I need to get another rig for the jams? Any advice welcome even if it is "Man up or were a Man Down" I Thank You Don