Chienmortbb

While I have bot tried every flat on the market, esp the £70 a set brigade, I can say that Fender flats are just about the worst. When they were made buy Fender and even since D'Addario made them for Fender.

The pedal steel guitar can sound really nice but a lot of times it is overused. As your friend plays a Tele too, he probably has the balance worked out.

The G&L pre-amps use passive tone controls and then feed the signal to a preamp. They use the same very low power op-amp used in the early MM 2 band pre-amps so power consumption is tiny. The battery is not disconnected if the plug is in the jack but the low power consumption means it will last a long,long time.

@Chienmortbb Fender Aerodyne Jazz Bass, Sire Marcus Miller M2, Bugera Veyron. LFSys Monza Cabinet, Zoom B2Four.

Quite Right. There is no reason why a well designed amp should hiss these days.

It’s more or less wipe on wipe off so no. You do not need to slather it on and make sure you do wipe it off and buff lightly after a short time. The lustre from the finger boards is lovely.

Those AD200s are awesome.

There are some really good presets on there, unlike the earlier pedals. Very usable or easy to tweak. Hope it helps.

I don’t but I will ask on the DIY Audio forum.

Is patch 61 Hysteria2003 any good?

Was it Bessie Smith or someone else that sang “It ain’t the meat it’s the motion”?

This. I use this https://howardproducts.uk/feed-n-wax/

You had to see them live. I have never gotten into Rush although many on here worship the ground Geddy walks on.

Just try taking mine away…….

Oh dear I hope this does not descend into a "you show me yours and I'll show you mine" thread.

It’s hard to carry on this or the Tonewood debate without lots of opinion and/or hocus locus. The truth is that every component contributes to the sound of a bass. In fact the largest influence on the sound of a bass is the lump playing it.

If you put Machine Heads rather than Tuners you might have got more replies. To be more helpful, look at some of the Gotoh’s. .They are not cheap but in my opinion they are the best. You will need to measure the post hole and make sure that the machine heads will fit in the space. If it looks like you will need to modify the bass, look at different models. I did this too late, after I modded mine I found a Gotoh model that would have slipped straight in.

Prepare yourself for a shock. OEM driver are notoriously expensive.

I did this when I modified my Ashdown After 8.

That is Newtone’s recommendation. Of course this procedure is needed for any round cored strings.

It is designed that way. If you look at the drawings, there are battens listed.

Too much? Of course the value is something that only you can judge. To be fair, I cannot really comment as I have never used one.

$1350 shipped to the UK before duty VAT and the fee for customs clearance. It looks like a simple pre amp with some basic tone controls. Explain.

I was not thinking about any particular cab although the 8" cab being done bu @Phil Starr would work. I suppose I was partly also thinking about my LFSys Monza. My initial thought was a small amp in the Elf/Gnome type amp using an ICEPower module but when I looked at the costs, as usual, I realised that DIY would be MME (much more expensive). So I started thinking about exactly what I needed. I leave my amps flat, no EQ at all. I know they are flat as I have measured the response of the preamp section.

It is possible that mixing cabs would work well but as our Americans friends would say "it's a crap shoot". Two cabs will be louder and likely to produce more low end but they will also produce some odd response to a greater or lesser degree. Just to muddy the water further, as @itu said, the real measure of loudness is dB and it is the measurement of Sound Pressure Level. The two cabinets mentioned have quoted sensitivities of 101dB and 100dB respectively BUT the crucial thing is that no indication of the methodology. The usual way to measure it is feeding the speaker with 1 Watt and measure at a distance of 1 metre. If we take the 15", it is only available in an 8 ohm version. 100dB sensitivity is at the high end of sensitivity for a 15" speaker. It is possible but unlikely. The 2x10 can be either 4 or 8 ohms and if they measure the 4 ohm cab, they may have used the "trick" of feeding a 4 ohm cab with a higher voltage*. It means that the cabinet would appear almost 3dB louder. It's all marketing smoke and mirrors. *2.8 volts, the voltage used to obtain 1 watt into an 8 ohm load. That gives almost 2 watts or another 3dB.