Chienmortbb

Me neither, the benefit is that you can use it on most Digital. Oxen’s but the UI is not to my liking. I was thinking about this, my Soundcraft uses a brick and whilst is is a pain at times, it does meant that a power supply failure does not need an RTB. The WiFi is the thing that lets the Behringer/Midas and Soundcraft down. It’s OK for the CQ18T where you have the screen built in but where you can not use an external device for the User Interface, it sucks. What is the spec of the power supply brick, volts and amps? How are you finding the mic preamps? The standard Behringer and Soundcraft ones have mixed reviews with the Soundcraft Ui24R has Studer preamps and the Midas and some of the Behringer have Midas preamps.

Sound On Sound review here. https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/allen-heath-cq-18t

A well designed Class D amp will generally be cleaner than a Valve amp designed for bass or guitar. Howeve a Valve amp may have compression built in.That will give more distorted watts (compression is distortion) and valves/transformers have the effect of taming the nastier sounds from a clipped amp. However the extra power will be marginal. Often the difference is in the inflated figure sone manufacturers quote. Remember many class D amps are designed with the consumer market in mind and are fighting the PMPO* mentality. *Peak Music Power Output.

Spot on Pete. 4MM cable is wasted on bass.It is really fir those ultra high powered PA amps. There is no problems with using 4mm but 2.5mm is fine for bass. It’s good for at least 18 amps or 2500 watts at 8 ohms and 1250 watts at 4 ohms.

What cabs are you using? 250 watts into 8 ohms should be more than enough.

I just had a quick play with the App. I bough a Soundcraft Ui some time ago as it uses a browser for control rather than an app but the fact that this has a screen is nice. There would be a learning curve to use the app but the power is outstanding. Having watched the whole video, I really think this is a game changer.

Interesting that you say 25 watts when many guitar amps and a few valve/ tube amps for bass are rated at 30 watts. I will admit that I do not know the original spec on Jacks and Plugs but I know many are rated at 500mA @ 50V. That ties in with 25 watts. I have seen it argued that if the electric guitar were invented today, the Jack would not be the connector of choice. The case for a different connector between amp and speaker is even more compelling. I must admit that I had never considered flammability as an issue. As a self-confessed nerd, I did consider buying the IEC standard but at just over £400/$450US it is a luxury I can do without. That would go a long way to a Mesa Subway😀. I have seen it suggested that not using compliant equipment might cause problems with Public Liability Insurance(I don’t know what it is called in the USA). Have you heard ?

A good question, it all depends on a number of things, firstly the price. Secondly the apps and finally bug maybe most important, the performance of the WiFi. I have not tried the Mackie but IMHO, the others cannot be used on the internal WiFi without an external router. However I am intrigued/Interested. Can we ask you to Interogate our West Country cousins further? I wonder if they will be launched at Plasa next week

Nothing against GK, but the driver would not be as good and that MB800 is a better unit than any in a combo.

I think you would be disappointed.

It’s true that electrolytic caps can degrade but that is unlikely to be the cause if the failure happened suddenly. Also sudden failure of electrolytic capacitors is often visual in that they will either deposit electrolyte close by or bulge/explode. De-L it is available in Europe but it is very expensive. In my experience, as pots age and are used, two things happen. Firstly, parts of the track flake off causing debris that disturbs the wiper causing crackles and noise. There is also a chance that dust from the outside world gets into the pot and similarly disturbs the wiper and makes the pot crackle. As De-Oxit is specifically designed for cleaning and lubricating pots , I am sure it is better than switch/contact cleaners. WD 40 should not be used anywhere in an amplifier. Another issue with pots is that a result of the track material flaking off, the track wears out. This is the only way I can see that a pot could cause hum, where a pot becomes open circuit. As for a DIYer trying to fault find, it is best to leave it to the professionals, they have the knowledge and equipment to fault find. Laney’s service department are helpful and I would consider ringing them as it may be quicker and cheaper in the long run to send it to them.

] So, the actual current rating is marginally better with the new series? I agree we do not need the high current for bass amps, in the same way we don't need 4mm/11 AWG cable, except with the multi kilowatt PA amps. Of course, we do need those for the 2000 watt bass amps, like the Bugeras NOT. What do the new standards say about 1/4" jacks for speaker use?

Rubber coatings always go icky. I threw a perfectly good radio (except for the ick) away because of it. Annoyingly, the non-rubber one was cheaper.

I cannot see the gap between them. Are you sure its not one 18x10?

Are you expecting me to finish my 500W home brew before then? Good grief man It has only been 7 years in the making.

Not sure Stradivarius is a good analogy. Making the best instrument that mimics a cat being strangled is a low bar 😂 .

I just realised how stupid I was commenting on style. I had pink loons back in the day.

I stand corrected.

Sorry, but a cab that looks like a 60s record player will never darken my door.

I have to be honest, I am happy either way but in my current band, a combination of dinosaurs ( some of my band members), band politics and insufficient PA capability means that IEM route is road closed for now. I am the new boy (sic) so don’t want to rock the boat as it is by and large a happy band. The band is not that quiet but I have never had ringing in my ears after rehearsal of gigs and I am happy with my backline. In saying that I would prefer better monitoring and where we play that is only possible with IEMs. However the singer likes to use his PA, rather than mine and only wants vocals through it. It has no aux buses so no of even a basic IEM mix. I on the other hand, I have a digital mixer with 6 aux buses plus a selection of tops and subs. These are only used on outdoor gigs. The case for going to a silent stage (ampless is such a misnomer) is very strong, but I would argue, needs a competent sound tech driving FoH. Otherwise the FoH sound is as much a crap shoot as a traditional band setting with backline and vocals only PA. However being able to really hear my backing vocals could be a game changer, it might encourage me or persuade me to stop singing altogether.😀

Actually it does not make much difference with subs. Th3 main thing is to keep the together or not too far apart. . If you place the subs on either side you get comb filtering. So just by moving a metre or two either way you can be deafened by the subs of barely hear them. I learnt about the theory of this about a week before a concert. The subs were placed either side of the stage and every time the bassist dug in or the drummer hit the kick, everything else was obliterated. There is a good video on sub placement here. There is a little tech speak but the graphics do not lie. .

It's good to have your knowledge on this. My last dealings with car amps was a few decades ago. I was going to put some info here about non car audio amps, but will make an effort to declutter this thread and will start a new thread.

I think bi-amping makes the difference. Feeding band limited signals to the two cabs means there is no chance of the usual comb-filtering. For most people they will not use bi-amping and feedin two different cabs from the same amplifier, is the situation for most. Of course is could cause a happy accident. Look art the Jazz bass for example, some people think the sound of the two pickups gives a pleasant sound. Personally I think that rear pickup is a waste of time BUT so many revered bassists say otherwise. So try it by all,Evans, be prepared to be disappointed but you might just strike gold.

Firstly you need to decide what battery you want to use then what power you need from the amp to achieve the required volume /SPL. Then you can decide whether, like @Mottlefeeder, you want to use a car amp that combines the amp and a voltage multiplier. Alternately you can use a class D amp plus a separate voltage multiplier. Be aware that car amp makers exaggerate even more than MI makers. Next, do you need a preamp? What is the output of the modeller that you have designed? It might be worth starting a new build thread to explore this further.