Lfalex v1.1

It's a possibility. I do leave them plugged in but switched off, so spikes / surges may cause damage. Not had issues with any other electrical items.

The K&M stand is expensive for what it is, and heavy. BUT it has been bomb-proof in use. The whole set-up hasn't shifted an inch and doesn't move at all, even if your playing is heavy-handed. I do think it's too heavy to play live with. Not really collapsible, and very weighty. Shame the keyboard/synth that live on it aren't as good. The GK61 is ok, but too limiting in terms of functionality. It has been reliable, and sounds good in a mix. Just lacks adjustability. The synths have been a nightmare. On the face of it, well-made, but seem prone to malfunction in all sorts of ways. Because of their inherent complexity, fault-finding is a real issue. Worse still, the Argon8's manual was plainly written by a code monkey whose first language was Cobol. It assumes WAY too much knowledge on the part of the user. Criticism of this elsewhere elicited very different responses. One that the Argon/Cobalt manuals were superb (they're not) and another which was a link to the original 1971 version of the ARP 2600 manual. It's a huge manual, but explains EVERYTHING and assumes nothing. I was using it as a reference document until the A8x folded. At time of writing, it doesn't look like Modal Electronics are a functioning entity. Their main page, support and sounds library are almost permanently down, and the merch page pops up now and again. In spite of this, there's supposedly a Carbon8 in the works. Hopefully that won't lose its sparkle, but I won't be the one that finds out.

And... The Argon8 has gone south. And not just for the winter. I've completely lost the Arpeggiator and Sequencer. Neither will function in spite of a full power down, disconnect/reconnect and factory reset. Not only am I cursed, but I am done with these things.

Definitely vinyl. And maybe shape it as an homage to the SR4 control plate? I know the footprint of the original won't cover that cavity, but you could get close.

I had one. Was my gigging mainstay for 3 years or so. Never did like the tone that much. I believe I read somewhere that the pickups are in series (presumably each pair of coils) and I think that was the reason. I do regret selling it a bit. Maybe all it needed was rewiring to parallel or a pickup change to something that's parallel (assuming the series piece to be true)

Saw them a good while ago (00's) at The Brixton Academy. It was Halloween, and everyone had dressed up. Amazing gig- only disappointment being that Chris Chaney was on bass rather than Eric Avery. Navarro brought the place to a standstill twice- The solo in "Three Days", and again for "Jane Says". Good memories.

If I understand such things correctly, the 8Ohm 2x12 will draw twice as much current as the 16Ohm 1x18 due to its lower impedance. The overall load will be within your amp's tolerance, but be aware that the 1x18 may not be as noticeable as you might want, especially if it's underneath the 2x12. I'd experiment with EQ and how you stack/where you place your cabinets to see what works best.

Hand of Doom - Sabbath Crime of the Century - Supertramp Last Goodbye - Jeff Buckley.... that'll get 'em going.

I purchased a G&L SB-2 Tribute (s/h) whose strings were way too non-compliant (stiff) for my taste. To soften the feel, I dropped it to D standard and use a capo as required. it'll easily go lower without flapping. Vendor says they're 50-110, but can't recall if they're DR low-riders or Dean Markley Blue steels. 🙃 Either way, I'd like to replicate the feel it's got at the mo', but with brighter strings. Tempted to try DR DDTs...

I bought a mass-produced bass for more than £1500. And it was second- hand. It's an excellent instrument, and was really good value compared to some others I've seen.

This track is vaguely reminiscent of Faith No More, with a bit of The Stranglers (Peaches) thrown in. Pretty good, though.

I like that you put Overkill first. They were uppermost in my mind. DD Verni is properly good. Their material is usually done on a (BC Rich) 4, tuned to C or C#. Can't remember which!

Purchased a K&M stacker & table adaptor.. Moderately expensive, but properly heavyweight. Was expecting a box of bits. Came nearly fully assembled. Hardest part was positioning the feet upon which the keyboards rest so as to properly support them. Delivered as promised by Thomann.

As a left-field idea; Have you tried sourcing any NOS pots from the correct year or production era? A long-shot, and doubtless expensive, but you might get lucky.

But... I don't like the colour?

Yeah. Got my Is, IIs and IIIs mixed up. Fortress has an original brass I. Infinity started out with a II, and now has a brass III..

I've an '97 Fortress and an '02 Infinity SN. The 2nd fret on the Fortress B string (C#, metal boys!) is a little flattened and could do with reshaping. Other than that, it's great. The Infinity, less so, but only because Warwick were using lower quality parts. I had 2 E- string tuners strip their gears and spit out their tuning posts, and the JAN III fell apart like they all do. Tuners replaced with licensed Hipshots. Brass JAN II now on nut duty. In summary, hardware more of an issue on 00's basses, but nothing beyond the realms of DIY.

Same here. I was serially unlucky with hardware synths. Anderton's put it straight when the one I ordered from them was also faulty.

I have a FatFinger. It removed the dead-spot on my Fender Jazz (now gone) completely. They don't have any noticeable effect on some instruments (Vigier Passion ignores it) Some instruments it makes worse. My Warwick Infinity just sounds lifeless with it fitted, and it didn't have any dead-spots to begin with. Yet on my Fortress and NS EUB it firms up the bottom end nicely. Weird. Definitely a try-before-you-buy item.

The Hofner and Ricks would be a flat "No" from me, so I guess it'd be the Hayman, then.

Since I'm utterly incapable of any act of self- promotion, it's never a problem I've encountered. I try to delegate such things to other, more enthusiastic people. 🙃

No.

Hmmm. There seems to be a couple of forces at work in Internet product pricing; Inflation, driven by increased labour costs (including the supply chain), raw materials and parts costs. Dynamic pricing by retailers- having seen upward and downward movement in item prices, I'm fairly sure that prices are adjusted (manipulated?) in relation to demand, supply and current inventory at any given retailer.

^^ I try to think of channels A and B as being "Modern" and "Vintage" respectively. I don't know what bass(es) you're using, but I agree that A is the better channel for aggressive grit/dirt, whatever you're playing. B really comes into its own for me using very modern, lively-sounding basses. Works a treat toning down and warming up my Warwicks in particular in a way that their own EQs can't. It sounds even better through my Ampeg SVP-PRO. Bypass- just the Ampeg A - Grrrrrr B- just a gentle push to drive the Ampeg to do the dirty work. Can't say I need the fusion modes much though. Bypass, A and B are enough for me.

Missed adding in a Line 6 Variax system! Oh, and Lightwave pickups!