linear

Surely if you spec a custom multi-scale to the same level it's going to end up costing about the same? So, you don't get to specify everything about it, but you don't have to wait six months plus to get it and you can choose not to buy it if you don't like it. Ah, fair enough. Direct experience trumps my ill-informed speculations.

That would be the conventional solution, rather than having separate switches for pickup selection and series/parallel, but then you'd have a spare hole in the control plate

Yup, or you could have a series/off/parallel switch.

Yea, I meant three holes available for pots/switches. Should have been clearer there. I've never seen as bass with only switches and no pots. There's probably a very good reason for this but I think it would look cool.

You have three holes on the control plate, correct? So, I would go for three position pickup switch; series/parallel switch; not a tone knob, but a three position tone switch with one position being fully open ofc.

I really hope it has two truss rods.

I own a pair of the Studio Projects B1 mics mentioned above and they are a good, if unexciting, microphone. Very natural sounding. I recently got very good results recording an accordion, of all things, with one of them. I've done a comparison of the NT1 and NT2 on vocals and much preferred the NT2. I was surprised how much I could hear a difference, given my lo-fi ears. Not sure if they were the A versions though. My conclusion was that I'd rather buy a cheaper mic than the NT1, or save up for an NT2. The AT2020 is extremely popular, but I wonder how much this has got to do with the 'youtube' effect - they are very popular with podcasters and video streamers. It also annoys me that it's marketed as a large diaphragm condenser when it's really not. Those are kind of irrational reasons to not buy one though.

Do you have other microphones already and are looking for something specifically for bass, or would this be your first mic? If it's the latter I'd be inclined to get a large diaphragm condenser first (ideally one with a pad switch,) as it's a very versatile type of microphone. This is assuming you are recording your cab at 'home' volume levels and are going to have a DI signal to blend it with.

A bit of digging on archive.org and it appears the change happened on the 1st of February, so Silvia was a bit unlucky.

I suspect the change has happened since then.

When did you place your last order?

You don't have to search for a special UK site. Even if you put http://www.thomann.de into the address bar it detects you are accessing the site from the UK and redirects you so that the prices are displayed in sterling. http://www.thomann.co.uk redirects to the same url. I just happened to notice some inconsistencies between the sterling prices and the euro prices (you can switch to the price in euros using the little flag at the top left) and I wondered if they'd switched to charging UK customers in sterling, and it would appear that they have. I think this switch to the price you see in sterling being the price you are charged in sterling must be pretty recent.

Good to know indeed. I had a feeling something must have changed. I did find it unlikely Thomann would be charging you €649 for a bass they list at £554; you'd actually be paying £570, with conversion charges on top of that. I also noticed some items where the price was the same in euros, but different in sterling. So, it would appear Thomann are setting their sterling prices manually, at least in some cases. I guess either in preparation for the UK leaving the EU, or because their UK sales will have dropped markedly thanks to the poor exchange rate?

He has an interesting right-hand technique, only bringing his second finger into play in certain situations.

Yes, but there is something odd about the way they calculate the sterling price. If you take the euro price and convert to sterling there is sometimes a large discrepancy with the sterling price Thomann display. It can go either way, being higher on some items and lower on others. So, in some cases, the price would you actually pay in sterling is a fair bit higher, and that's before you factor in the poorer exchange rate your card provider gives and any conversion charge. I assumed they would update the nominal exchange rate across the board every week or so, but it doesn't seem to be the case.

Anyone know? Their price in Sterling for something I'm looking at is much lower than their Euro price converted to Sterling. DV247 are similar.

Wow I did not know these existed. Is it a slab or contoured body?

I have a Sterling SUB, and it's fine I particularly like the slim neck. The very first run of them had preamp issues, but I understand that is no longer the case in the more recent ones. However, I feel at £350 you can do a lot better. I'd only get one at RRP if you were dead set on that particular bass, for whatever reason.

Sire P7 and a bottle of T-Cut. Best £407.94 you'll ever spend.

They are probably fine, but I would also suggest designable on Amazon. These are the best quality cable and connectors you can get, for just a little more money. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Designacable-NP2XB-VDINBE0300-NP2XB-Custom-Length-Guitar/dp/B0052JY8J8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=designacable+3m&qid=1586176625&sr=8-2 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005JSC0PG/ref=psdc_407727031_t1_B0052JY8J8 Click around all the length and colour combinations, as the prices are a bit wacky, with longer cables often being cheaper.

Apart from sounding a bit different and the fact that Jazz basses are for awesome people and P-basses are for boring old men, there is one other thing that might make a difference to you: the fingerboard on a P-bass is traditionally a bit wider than a Jazz. If you look at the description you will see the nut width on the CV P-bass is 42mm, and the nut width on the Jazz is 38mm. This is a small difference, but noticeable when you hold the neck in your hand. Which is better is just a personal preference. It's not something I would get too hung up on if it's your first bass.

If you have your heart set on the black CV Jazz, then, in my opinion, that is the one you should get. The basses you have shortlisted are all fine choices, so go with the one that calls to you. The comments about playing one first are 100% correct, under normal circumstances, but as things are at the moment I wouldn't feel bad about ordering one online. People on here are forever buying basses from other board members without playing them first btw, so there's a fair element of 'do as I say, not as I do' in the try it first advice If there are any issues with it you can always send it back.

Another note to say you can deal with Tim with complete confidence. Excellent comms, rapid delivery and top gent all round.

It's nice, but I prefer a rosewood lollipop stick.