Freuds_Cat

[quote name='Sean' post='22679' date='Jun 25 2007, 12:49 AM']I would say that the CIJ ones are better than the MIM ones when it comes to quality. The quality of the Jap instruments is extremely high - better in many cases than the MIA stuff. If I was buying a Fender unseen I would only go for a CIJ - I'd have to try the US or Mex ones first. The CIJ jazzes I've had were really top notch. I've never played a Mex that was anywhere as good as a Jap one. try them all and see for yourself.[/quote] +1 As I've mentioned in a different thread I recently went through just about all the music shops in Adelaide playing all the fender basses I could (helping out a student/friend). IMHO the new off the rack CIJ Fender bass is currently of a superior quality in (not all) but most cases. Things like the Marcus Miller MIA bass is an example of an exception. I have no bias generally, Just calling a spade a spade. Oh yep and what Dood says is also very true.... thanks mate I forgot about that side of the equation.

[quote name='Oxblood' post='20824' date='Jun 21 2007, 12:38 AM']Oh stop it! I've gone all shy now...[/quote] Yep your Dean sure does sound nice. Its a lot more woody sounding than my um Woody Rumblekat. I would love to hear a comparison between your Dean Stylist, my Epi Rumblekat and the Harley Benton. [url="http://www.epiphone.com/news.asp?NewsID=501"]Epi Rumblekat pics here if interested[/url]

Excellent review Oxblood, I recently bought an Epiphone Allen Woody signigture Rumblekat bass of similar ilk to your Stylist. I've only done one gig with it so far and will wait until it has a few more hours under its belt before I do a review. Do you know where the Dean Stylist was manufactured?

I was thinking about what Beedster was saying about not changing strings and if its neccessary or not, and I do think changing strings is needed if you want a bright more vibrant sound but then I have an extra short scale Precision style bass that I have purposely put very old roundwound strings on and that I will most probably never change unless forced to. The main reason for doing this is the same as for changing strings more regularly.......ie its the sound you get. This half scale body Greg Bennett Corsair gives me a great precision sound. Almost like an old P bass with flats on it. Its been modded and now has a Badass 1 bridge on it. I've been thinking of puting some Seymour Duncan Quarter pounders in it or some EMG actives but it sounds so good at the moment I might not bother.

[quote name='rodl2005' post='19438' date='Jun 18 2007, 03:50 PM']Usually- I set up the bass rig & turn amp on to standby, then after doing other things-finalising set list, tuning, get a drink etc.. I turn ON. Sometimes it's just set up turn on standby, a cuppla mins then turn on for a soundcheck. But 4 me-never less than a cuppla mins.[/quote] +1

[quote name='presoulnation' post='8643' date='May 30 2007, 12:31 AM']In response to the SVT thing - I would add that my favourite recorded bass tone was done through an SVT 4, my fave amp I have ever played live was an SVT 3 and by far the most disappointing amp I have ever played was an SVT 2, which is supposed to be one of their monsters......go figure![/quote] The SVT3 is pretty much the SVT 2 (SVP-PRO) preamp and a Mosfet poweramp if I'm not mistaken. I use an SVP-PRO into a 500w a side Mosfet power amp and It really does sound the same as the SVT3's that I've used. The only difference is that I bi-amp it. And I gotta agree with you Presoul, its the best sounding live amp I've ever used/had, which is why I still have and use it after all these years.

When I was gigging 5 times a week back in the 80's I used Rotosound RS 66's and changed them once every 1 to 2 weeks to keep that brightness and snap. Also the cost was regarded as a band expense. They were about Aus$35 a set in them days. At close to Aus$60 a set now and the fact that I do about 4 shows a month and have to pay for them myself I have had to find alternatives I was (and still am) very impressed with webstrings stainless strings I find that they stay brighter longer than the Rotosounds and at US$11 a set they are amazing value Sorry to sound like an endorsee but even if I started playing for a liviing again I think I would stick with these strings The other cheapies that I liked were the Warwick Red sets. I tried the Warwick Yellow which were dearer but the Reds seemed to last longer and stay brighter [url="http://www.webstrings.com/electric_bass_strings_detroit-stainless.html"]www.webstrings.com[/url]

[quote name='Hamster' post='17939' date='Jun 15 2007, 08:23 AM']They're quite dangerous! - I'm sure I saw Worf take a Jem'Hadar's head off with one of those Hamster[/quote] The first pic looks like it once had a very nice shape but has since had chunks cut off it

Looks good to me but as usual play it before you buy it if at all possible. I have really become quite a fan of the Japanese Fender (and Squier) basses over the last 12 months as I have had to do a lot of research and obviously playing of them. The price discrepancy between a Jap Fender and a USA Fender is not in any way a true reflection on the difference in the quality of the instruments in my opinion. How do you say Garcia in Japanese?

[quote name='The Burpster' post='13582' date='Jun 7 2007, 10:18 PM']My Pa reckons that whilst Mullard where in production they were the best available...... (he did order 500 000 of them for the USAF, in preferance to US made ones) so hang on to 'em as long as you can as they are absolute dooosies![/quote] OK I have to buy into this. great topic! I run an Ampeg SVP-PRO preamp into a large Mosfet power amp (and bi amp... a whole other topic). I have heard/read a lot of horror stories similar to Lfalex's and just as many if not more love storys about this preamp. Mine is quiet and sound as perfect as the pre stage of an SVT can. I Used TC Electronic preamps for a long time and they are quiet, clean and give you a flawless sound but they just aint tubey enough. On the subject of tubes I have tested a lot and I mean a lot. The Mullards IMHO are a fantastic rich soupy sounding tube which is prefect for a Marshal stack with a Les Paul or Strat. Again IMHO they are not a good bass tube. The main reason is trhat they get too muddy in the low mids to use with a bass. I know they have this elite reputation and Im sure its from all the gu1t4rists that have had such fantastic sounds from them but I have tried at least 6 different Mullards in different parts of my SVP-PRO and at low volume its quite nice. Turn it up or use them live and they drop to near the bottom of my list. Just my own experience, buy em and try em, I would love to hear other peoples opinions. as far as SS vs Tube...... I cand imagine ever going back to SS.

There are heaps but for great rock and roll bass players I think Allen Woody from Govt Mule and Leon Wilkeson from Lynyrd Skynyrd definitely deserve a mention. Try and learn a few Skynyrd songs and you will see what I mean.

[quote name='Beedster' post='10386' date='Jun 1 2007, 05:11 PM']Cheers FC, it does seem odd - given that when these were introduced the bass world was literally dominated by Fender, certainly at the top end - that they required such serious modifications to fit? Think LQ got it right with the BADASS III though Chris[/quote] yeah Chris my understanding is that the original Badass 1 was designed to replace the bridges on the old Gibson EB-X basses. I'm going to buy a Badass 3 for my 82 JV Squier project so I am very interested to see how it compares to the BA1.

[quote name='Beedster' post='8975' date='May 30 2007, 04:27 PM']I guess if you sink a bridge into the body you have a greater area of surface contact between metal and wood which is probably no bad thing sound-wise - I'd hate to do it to a 1970's Fender though. Does anyone know whether when using it with a Fender one can simply shim the neck with a Badass 1 or, given its height, is that not really an option? Chris[/quote] Just looking at the depth that mine has been routed I would say that neck shims would be out of the question Chris

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Excellent article BOD2. I can offer the following 2 pics of basses fitted with Badass 1 bridges where the body has been routed to fit properly. I have tried Badass II bridges and they are great sounding bridges but have a personal preference for the Badass 1. My only tips are: unless you are very confident in filing the bridge saddles then get a luthier to do it for you. And be aware that the distance between the string entry point and the saddles can in some cases be quite short (depending on the positioning of the bridge on the body). This causes the srting to deviate very sharply over the saddle. If the groove in the saddle is not done correctly then broken strings will result. I haven't tried the Badass 3 bridges yet and might give one a try on a Squier Jazz project I'm into at the moment. Good luck all.

[quote name='bassaussie' post='8452' date='May 29 2007, 04:15 PM']Just be careful with this - this is a Badass I, the original version, which needs routing to be installed on a Fender instrument. The bridge you need for a Fender is a Badass II.[/quote] Yep good advice, unless of course like me you have a preference for the Badass 1 bridge and are happy to route the body. Sacralige I know but hey its for playing and listening to not just looking at. I believe that the Badass 3 is of similar size but lower profile than the first ones. Cargill custom Fretless bone nut 72 Fender Jazz graphite nut I also have one on my 23" scale Bennett precision (graphite nut) but no pics yet. For brightness, punch, attack and sustain, nothing beats them in my opinion.

Hi, my name is Bret and I am a GASaholic. My 'other' current GAS desire is this Electro Voice Bass speaker. This speaker would fit very nicely into my Bi-amp rig thankyou very much. [b]Electro Voice EVX155[/b] [b]Specifications[/b] Sensitivity 1W/1m 98 dB Max. SPL / 1m (calc); full space 125.8 dB System Power Handling (continuous/program/peak) 600/1200/2400 Watts Nominal Impedance (Passive) 8 Ohms Chassis Size 15 inches Speaker Type Components Weight Net 10.3 kg ( 22.71 lbs )

Buy now US$50 [url="http://cgi.ebay.com/Leo-Quan-BADASS-Bridge-Chrome-4-String_W0QQitemZ130119224801QQihZ003QQcategoryZ41407QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"][b]Linky here[/b] [/url]

[quote name='NickThomas' post='7483' date='May 27 2007, 05:08 PM']Leo's final and arguably best creation .. G&L basses [/quote] +1

A mate runs the local music shop and is trying to get me to relieve my GAS on one of the basses in his shop that he knows I'm in love with. Allen Woody Signature Epiphone RumbleKat [url="http://www.epiphone.com/news.asp?NewsID=501"][/url] Details here [url="http://www.epiphone.com/news.asp?NewsID=501"]http://www.epiphone.com/default.asp?Produc...CollectionID=12[/url] Its brand new and retails at about Aus$1200 he has it 'on sale' for Aus$550 OMG!! I have it so bad! I know I shouldn't but man its such a cool bass soundwise and to play and its really very cheap. ....isn't it? 7th June ... GOT IT!!

OK I used Rotosound RS 66 strings for years. Fact: they are now insanely expensive and do not stay as bright as they used to as long as they used to. And thats with me playing a lot less shows than I did in the past. I now use Detroit Bass Stainless Mediums from webstrings.com They by contrast are insanely cheap and seem to last an incredibly long time. Check em out, I cant praise them enough. [url="http://www.webstrings.com/electric_bass_strings_index.html"]webstrings.com[/url]

Seems fair enough Kiwi

[quote name='Rich' post='3475' date='May 21 2007, 07:29 PM']In which case it'd be www.basstransdimensionalspiralencompassingeverypointandeventinthespacetimecontinuum.co.uk Name's immaterial to me. Just so long as it's friendly & cool & informative & bassy & stuff.[/quote] +1 Rich

Xlnt review Telebass.