6v6

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1414764675' post='2593089'] True, but that's why I said 'modify' - maybe bump them up from 12V. Or maybe that's impossible. I'm just here to learn . [/quote] Ok, apologies, my previous response came off rather curt as I was in a hurry and didn't explain, so let me see if I can remember and explain the theory Ultimately, the output of the amplifier consists of an AC voltage (the signal applied to the speaker), which pushes current through the speaker (current determined by the impedance, so lets say nominal 8ohms) If, for the sake of argument, we want 300w RMS, and we assume the speaker signal to be a sine wave, this means we can apply a simplistic estimate based on ohms law: Power = Voltage x Current (P = V x I) Voltage = Current x Resistance (V=I x R) So if we combine the above, P=(VxV)/R, or RMS voltage = square root of power x resistance, so sqrt(300*8), which is just under 50v RMS we multiply by sqrt(2) to get from RMS to peak-to-peak, so you're looking at, roughly, 70v p-p swing to push 300w RMS through 8ohms. That's my understanding of the theory anyway, if I'm remembering correctly!

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1414761323' post='2593036'] This is probably a daft question, but couldn't you modify a PC switched power supply? They are relatively cheap and well proven. [/quote] I don't think the output voltages are high enough

So what modules are you going to use then? I looked into building a mosfet amp from scratch and the cost of the parts made it uneconomic, and as has been stated the class D stuff like Hypex is expensive too. In the end I bought some used BK 450w modules from bertbass (a year ago! )[size=4], which I'm sorry to say haven't yet been built into the amp I had planned (hybrid with a valve preamp) due to work/kids time pressure. [/size] [size=4]They are sitting under my workbench quietly mocking my lack of DIY commitment though [/size] [size=4]Hopefully I'll get back to the project soon as building amps/cabs is a lot of fun.[/size]

Some luthiers suppliers can provide nitro in a can: http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/fiesta-red-nitrocellulose-paint-aerosol.html If you want an authentic vintage finish, nitro is the way to go, as the 1-pack acrylic you get out of a car aerosol will be softer and won't age in the same way (you'll never get a nice aged "relic" look if that's what you're after).

You don't really want the hole to be tapered, so IMO just get a drill - you can get a cheap cordless one and a set of bits for not much money (cheapest cordless drill I can see in Argos is less than £15) I guess you could do it with a file, but it's unlikely you'll get the holes properly round.

[quote name='Bigwan' timestamp='1414489093' post='2589673'] I'm assuming this is very much the R&D phase for this cab. I'd expect once the first is out, normal waiting times would apply. [/quote] It's weird to add a product to your product range so many months before you're ready to actually ship it though IMO. Most companies do (most of) their R&D first, then their marketing, but then I guess with some niche products the waiting is part of the marketing strategy. Not meaning to be snarky as I've no beef with Barefaced or any other manufacturer, I just find it puzzling, that's all

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1414486597' post='2589636'] Looks superb! I'm trying to figure out why it's in a pub though [/quote] It was so loud it's knocked the tables and stools over too

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1413339315' post='2577327'] The smart guitar player knows enough to use no more than a 1x12 speaker, so he can crank it for tone without excessive volume, letting the PA spread his sound across the room and the monitors across the stage. [/quote] This is so true - for years (yes, I am an ex-guitarist but please don't hold it against me [size=4]) I carted around a huge 2x12 50w valve combo, it was so heavy and I was forever being told to turn down by sound guys, while simultaneously getting a pants tone due to not getting the power stage cooking. Some guys insist on 100w amps where the problems are even worse.[/size] Switching to a small 15w 1x12 combo about 10 years ago was a revelation, half the weight & the tone was so much better. I sat it on a chair at gigs so it was nearer my ears and I could actually hear myself, and we'd stick a mic in front of it for bigger gigs where a bit of extra through the PA was needed. Edit: spelling

[quote name='TheSiberian' timestamp='1412496689' post='2569251'] Strange enough... Nobody know the Genelec? If you want a real good monitor for home or studio ( or better said, if you want to hear the same sound at home and in the studio) you better choose the Genelec line. For example 8240A. Best [/quote] +1, my money would likely go on some used genelec 8020's, but to be honest there's such an enormous choice out there this stuff comes down to personal preference in the end.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1412441082' post='2568996'] I wonder if the master volume makes the difference, as the single volume control on the Princeton is rather like having the master volume stuck on 10 and adjusting the pre-volume. [/quote] Obviously, you could just install a master volume, on the back if you've not got any space for it, and if that doesn't work out for you use the hole for a VVR circuit power control?

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1412439124' post='2568974'] It's a shame the ampmaker VVR kit is only for cathode biased amps (mine is fixed bias), otherwise it looks promising. I think there is a VVR kit for fixed bias amps available from Hall amplification in the US though. [/quote] I've used the Hall fixed bias VVR kit and it works well. Note that you'll lose some headroom if you convert to cathode bias anyway, so that's actually one of the first things I'd do, along with changing the speaker to something less efficient. I play a home built amp similar to yours and FWIW I find the cathode bias sounds subjectively nicer to my ears anyway (more compression, slightly sweeter when pushed)

[quote name='planer' timestamp='1413242022' post='2576368'] I bought this very amp from this very chap (hello mate *waving*), it sounds great and is louder than it has any right to be. A whole lot of amp for next to nothing. I'm suffering from amp gas at the moment but without spending squillions I honestly can't find much I prefer the sound of. [/quote] *waves back* glad it's working out for you - they are great little amps. [size=4] [/size]

Hartke Kickback - they're unpopular used thus cheap, but IME are good. I bought (then recently sold for roughly what I paid for it) a kickback 12 for about £80 and it was sufficient at 120w for small pub gigs (with a bit of PA support unless the venue was tiny generally) I can't think of anything else which combines cheap, portable and giggable - you can get better but it costs much more.

If the requirement is a smaller/lighter IP, does an AER amp one fit the bill? They're silly money, but from what I've read they have some of the DSP magic built in, similar to the IP?

Just completed a bass trade with Mike, completely hassle free and a thoroughly nice chap, deal with confidence

I've got TI flats on my SR500 and they're great, but I agree it's personal preference. I can see why some folks would think it's a weird choice of string for a modern active bass, but for me it gave the mellow sound I was looking for, which at the end of the day is all that matters really.

Either needs new power tubes or there's a fault with the bias circuit (latter can be related to the former). Really, you want to get it checked out by a competent tech, as he'll be able to ensure the bias circuit is operating correctly, as if it's not you may just cook any new tubes very quickly and/or cause additional damage.

[quote name='John_P' timestamp='1412416713' post='2568703'] Just to clarify - I know it's really hard to describe and compare volume of bands - I usually gig playing guitar and use a fender twin or an evh 5153. Either of those amps are usually on 6 (out of 10) and the drummers I play with don't need to be mic'ed up for volume in a typcial pub gig. That said usually there would be Pa reinforcement to help spread the sound. [size=4][/quote][/size] Assuming thats a 100w 5153 I'd classify that and a twin running with master at 6 as well towards the pretty-damn-loud end of the spectrum. The 250w starting point is probably sensible, but I guess the question to ask yourself is what you'll do if the 250w combo isn't loud enough - the TC combos won't take an extension cab so you're at your maximum the day you buy it, whereas one of the amps or combos which do 250w+ into 8ohms (e.g the 500w+ amps, as all manufacturers brand things for their absolute-maximum-into-4ohms ratings) future-proof you to a point, as you can add another speaker for more cone area and more power if you need it.

[quote name='John_P' timestamp='1412375582' post='2568497'] Thanks for the replies, but the bh500 and aguilar 350, iamp800 aren't up to gigging? I'm only talkng pubs really but I don't want to buy twice if you know what I mean. [/quote] All I meant really is, for example, the AG350 is only 175w into 8ohms and the BH250 less than that (maybe the combos are 4ohms but then you can't run an extension cab), which if you're competing with a loud drummer and a couple of rock guitar legends with 100w marshalls, you might find them a little lacking if you're not running them into big efficient cabs. For small pub gigs, any of them will probably be perfectly fine

[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1412376333' post='2568508'] Sorry, but that's a load of rubbish. Watts don't determine how loud a thing goes. That's the cab's SPL which is rated in decibels. I used to play in a loud 2 guitar band with a shed building drummer using an LMII into 2 10" drivers at 8 ohm & had no trouble being heard (I got asked to turn down more often than to turn up the volume). The LMII into the 2x10 went a lot louder than my Trace Elliott into a 4x10 ever could. I'd say save a little more & get the LMII & find a good 2x10/2x12 with a decent SPL, or if you can get a good combo like a Markbass or similar. [/quote] Woah, bit harsh! Watts are related to how load a thing goes, albeit that a 500w amp won't sound massively louder than a 350w amp (you need ten times more power to sound twice as loud) I gigged for a fair while with a 120w combo, so I know it *can* be done, but the OP said "[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]loud enough to cope with hard hitting drummers and rock guitars", which has now been revised to pub gigs, in which case any of the amps will probably be fine.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]I suggested the LM and a 2x12, which, uh, is the same as you suggested, so despite me talking rubbish, it would appear we're in violent agreement [/size][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]FWIW I play pub gigs with a LM3 and a single 8ohm 1x12 and it's adequate, sometimes a little PA support is needed in the bigger places.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]Really, how big an amp and cab you go for depends on your attitude to PA support (and the maturity of your drummer) - some folks don't use an amp at all.[/size][/font][/color]

[quote name='John_P' timestamp='1412373341' post='2568455'] Must be loud enough to cope with hard hitting drummers and rock guitars [size=4][/quote][/size] IMHO this discounts anything less than 500w into 4ohms and most combos, e.g most of your list. [size=4][quote name='John_P' timestamp='1412373341' post='2568455'][/size] [size=4]Mark Bass lm2 in the classified here would definitely work ok but are they loud enough[/size] [/quote] Yes, a LM (or similar 500w head) and and a 4ohm 2x12 or 4x10 would do the job nicely IME.

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1412270572' post='2567394'] My guess is that your'e hitting xmax at 70/80Hz. If you look at Phil's excursion diagrams above you'll see that dropping the tuning to 40Hz reduces the power handling of the system quite a lot between 50 and 80Hz. If the problem didn't occur when your system was tuned to 50Hz, it's not likely to be noise, because lowering the tuning to 40Hz will move the turbulent noise from the ports down out of harm's way. [/quote] Aha, I'll have to check my own plots to confirm, but given it's the same speaker in a similar sized box you may well be right. I'll return the tuning to 50Hz before the next gig to hopefully avoid causing any driver damage [size=4] [/size]