6v6

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1405351192' post='2501094'] Dave... That's fair enough, you've passed the test. I'm not up to speed with British pricing; in France I'd expect something between the equivalent of £30-60. It's a pretty simple operation for a competent luthier. Pics of the operation, if you go ahead with it..? [/quote] Wow luthiers must be cheap in France, that's how much I'd expect to pay for a setup! Planing off the old 'board without ruining the neck, and accurately installing and finishing the new one is a fair bit of work IMO, I'd be surprised if you got much change from £200 in the UK. Pulling the frets and installing some wood strips to match the fretboard would be most likely a fair bit cheaper.

[b] [color=#222222] [/color][/b][color=#222222]They really should've re-branded these for the UK market! [/color][b][color=#222222] [/color][/b]

[url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/fender_deluxe_pbass_special_rw_bk.htm"]Fender deluxe P Bass special[/url], job done!

[url="http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?manufacturer=Tuff_Cab&masthead=Cabinet_Coverings&subheadnew=Paint"]Tuff Cab[/url]

Unless you're really not willing to spend some time learning to solder, I don't see the point of solderless systems, the plugs are *way* more expensive, and they're bound to be less reliable than properly assembled soldered cables. Get yourself a cheap soldering iron (something like an antex cs18, which will cost less than £20 and last for years) and a few cheap soldered connectors and give it a go, I got some of [url="http://www.studiospares.com/jack-plug-right-angled-mono/invt/575190?VBMST=angle%20jack%20plug"]these[/url] from studiospares recently and they're good for the money (the solderless ones are four times the price).

Perhaps (carefully) try some very fine wire wool, or a scotch-brite pad? I'd avoid putting any more lemon oil on it as that'll probably make it shinier, you could try degreasing it with a tiny bit of soapy water (washing up liquid?) on the scotch-pad.

[quote name='Maude' timestamp='1401729408' post='2466274'] Another way of asking the question would be if you were to build a single cab with any given driver, would the internal volume need to be double for a twin cab with a pair of the same drivers. Or is there a rough rule of thumb where volume goes up or down in ratio to the number of drivers. I just want general guidelines to cab building, [/quote] AFAIK, basically, yes. Since it's a sealed cab there's no port to worry about, so you should be able to build two boxes, each with approximately half the internal volume of the existing cab.

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1401660794' post='2465702'] If I was going to go to the trouble of making some nice bespoke cabinets then I'd look for suitable design for the chosen driver and start from scratch, not base it on a sawn-0ff 210 cab. [/quote] This. While sawing an existing box in half may work, I'd find a DIY 1x10 design and driver (with published specs so you can model the box) you like and just build a couple of new boxes, unless you really like the current cab's sound. I once tried this and cut a Traynor 4x10 in half attempting to make a pair of 2x10's, but the construction was so bad (OSB, butt joints and staples) it basically fell to bits after I cut it in half and it ended up in the bin. I should've just sold it and put the money towards a couple of decent drivers.

MarkBass CMD102p

[quote name='cheddatom' timestamp='1400844754' post='2457439'] I was hoping to get my 16 inputs for my £500, I think the 828 mk3 plus an ADAT unit would take me out of that range? [/quote] I guess, as others have mentioned there are options which could enable you to get that many inputs for less - particularly if you're happy with firewire. Many folks will be selling off firewire interfaces soon, because the driver support in Windows8 is poor. If you're running a mac, it could mean an opportunity to get a cheap used interface. FYI, the Cymatic audio box I linked provides 16 inputs via USB, in addition to the ability to operate as a standalone live recorder. We recorded a gig with it a couple of weeks back and I'm amazed by the quality of the recording considering how little it cost, I'm not aware of any cheaper way to get 16 inputs other than used firewire interfaces. The main disadvantage is slightly higher latency than some other (e.g RME) interfaces when using the ASIO drivers.

You may want to take a look at the motu 828 mk3 - after researching recently based on similar requirements (16 in's for live recording) that seems to be the best of the fairly affordable interfaces as it has 10 analog ins and 2xADAT. In the end though, I got one of these instead: http://cymaticaudio.com/index.php/products/live-recorder-lr-16 Got a great deal through thomann and does what it says on the tin - 16 channels of good quality 24bit audio recorded off the mixer for £235. Bargain.

I had an early 90's '57 reissue for quite a few years, they are very good guitars, but I'm not sure I'd spend the money required for a brand new AVRI at today's prices, for the same money you could get a good used custom shop strat or any one of the many boutique builders out there. In the end I sold it because of the skinny frets and the choking from the 7.25" fretboard radius - I'm not sure if they still have that on the latest AVRI's, but IMO 9.5" is a much better compromise if you want to play lead and have a low action so worth checking on. Certainly most of the custom shop vintage models can be ordered with 9.5" radius but I'm not sure about AVRI models. Re pickups, I have Lindy Frailin Vintage Hot's in my current (bitsa made from US Fender parts) strat - they are excellent, but the biggest upgrade I have done was changing the cast alloy trem block for a callaham steel one - seriously I was amazed at the increase in sustain and overtones just from that one mod.

[quote name='Sean' timestamp='1398886509' post='2438731'] Well, that remix has managed to help us get a new drummer! And it's a guy I really wanted to play with again after not seeing him in ages! [/quote] Aww, I kinda feel sorry for the guy on the recording now! He did sound like he needed a serious dose of irn-bru though so I hope it works out with the new guy [size=4]Still planning to have a crack at a remix but been busy with work, hopefully have something ready over the weekend. [/size]

Thanks Dad3353, I've now got a link and will have a crack at a remix later. Initial impressions of the basic recordings are definitely that the drummer is playing with a very light touch and/or the drum mics were pretty far away from the drums so beefing that up is going to be a bit of a challenge

IMO for bass guitar just DI - you can add any cab emulation you want later via plugins etc during the mix and you don't have the hassle of worrying about mic positioning and spill. If you're into heavily overdriven sounds then maybe add a SM57 on the cab and combine it with the DI signal when you do the mixdown. For kick drum I've had good results with the Shure beta 52, it works OK on bass cabs but the eq curve built in makes it better suited to kick IME.

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1398357869' post='2433383'] I know weight of gear has been a hot topic with bassists for some time. My personal view is that a cabinet of this size should be made out of 18mm birch because it will be substantially more rigid yet will only to add 3.5kg to the total weight (even less when you consider the extra bracing needed for a 12mm ply cab). Everybody's needs are different though, and light weight remains a 'must' for many. Phil's choice of the Beyma is quite interesting, as it is relatively lightweight for a ceramic driver of this quality. [/quote] Another alternative is to take the compromise route and use 15mm ply - I did this with my (Beyma loaded) 1x12 build and it's worked out very well - only needed minimal bracing and it's very rigid (I think the shelf port helped here). I've not weighed it yet, but (although it has two handles) it can be easily lifted with one hand, and it's simple to carry the cab with gig-bag containing amp on my back for one trip from the car at gigs. Disadvantage is 15mm ply is harder to source, but a good timber merchant should be able to get it even if it's not standard stock, after a few calls I found one local-ish which had 15mm birch on the shelf and could cut everything to size for me.

By "[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]bad distortion and break" do you mean the sound cut out completely?[/size][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]If so then I'd check all the speaker leads and connections, wiggle the connectors, you could have a bad connection particularly if it's jack not speakon.[/size][/font][/color] [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]Likewise check the input cable and wiggle all the pots and switches looking for a bad connection.[/color][/font] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]After that it's open it up, replace the preamp valve, then use chopsticks to carefully probe for bad connections in internal wiring and components (don't do this unless you're comfortable working on open mains appliances, it can be lethal to take care!)[/size][/font][/color]

I think the cost you've been quoted is reasonable, particularly if it includes new quality jack sockets, pots and footswitch, not just the box (cost of those parts alone is probably £25 including the box) I agree, with what was previously mentioned, get a used sansamp or DIY it.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1394731938' post='2394586'] I've got a Protection Racket 7051 semi-rigid case which I like very much. But I haven't used it on public transport, so couldn't advise you on that. [/quote] +1 I have one of these, and although it's not light and is relatively bulky, I can't imagine many "gig bags" offering better protection. I've walked 3 miles with it on my back, carrying a P-bass, Little Mark 3 (which fits in the big pocket) and leads/tuner etc. I wouldn't want to do that every day, but provided you've had a couple of beers it's perfectly fine [size=4] [/size]

[quote name='molan' timestamp='1397519882' post='2424844'] I've played near identical Fender Jazzes (same year of manufacture, exact same model etc) back to back and even they sound different. I know a top pro guy who bought a brand new 2013 Fender P US Standard and asked Fender for another that sounded the same so he'd have a spare to take on tour. They couldn't find one. . . [/quote] Really? I find it pretty hard to believe that the biggest manufacturer of J basses on the planet can't make two near-identical basses, so either he had some strange outlier to their normal quality control, or he wasn't important enough for them to try a couple of dozen basses to find one the same? FWIW I tried about 10 2012 P-Basses last year and they all sounded very similar, in the end the decision came down to weight, slightly better wood/resonance and colour choice.

[quote name='catmanhog' timestamp='1397133744' post='2420990'] Hello, Just wondering about getting a pitchblack tuner - will it run from the tuner out option on a LittleMk II or go through the input on the front of the amp? Sounds simple enough but a couple of people tell me it only runs through the front input. Any info much appreciated! [/quote] I have one and use it inline between the bass and a LM3, works fine. Pretty sure the tuner out will work too, you'd presumably just leave the tuner on all the time and plug the tuner out into the pedal. IMO it's better having the pedal inline, as it mutes the bass when you're tuning and I really hate it when bands subject their audiences to loads of noisy tuning [size=4] [/size]

Out of interest are all the bands playing for free? It seems odd to me that what appears to be a relatively large, non-charity event which is making money off tickets is not paying a fee to the bands. Personally I'd ask for at least £200 per day (split between the band obviously), as that's the going rate even in small pubs and social clubs these days IME. Bigger functions would, normally, command a much bigger fee, but I guess it depends on the bands and nature of the event. Still, if you can get some expenses, don't care about the fee and want the gig then go for it, hope you enjoy it!