Maude

Yes the black block makes perfect sense now, the flat file thing has corresponding circular marks on the other side from being clamped in the block. The block holds it at 45 degrees so you're right, it's for bevelling fret ends. The yellow, red, blue and green blocks are 'fret erasers', kind of like a rubber impregnated with sanding grit. They're different grades for dressing frets.

Ain't Necessarily So - Bronski Beat

No Time To Cry - Sisters of Mercy

I've actually just ordered a sheet of black but gone for single ply rather than B/W/B, but I might do a tort one as well. It'll need to be a very dark vintage brown, not red at all if poss. So who does a nice dark tort? The usual from ebay all are too naff looking.

That's exactly how I feel about tort, although for some perverse reason I like it on a teal sort of blue. You could do a reverse P on a non X, just make the scratchplate and don't have the chrome control plate. Didn't @AndyTravisorange one only have the scratchplate. I actually really like the BB without the control plate.

I just want to get it put back together but I've got to order some black scratchplate material and make that.

Hi everyone, I've put this post in the Build Diaries as, although not a build, I reckon I'll get the best response in here from you lovely luthier types 😉. I was lucky enough to pick up these tools on facebook from a local tech who's knocking it on the head. I know what most of it is, but there's a couple of things I'm not sure about, but I'm sure folks in here will know. Here it is all laid out. Top middle there's a black block with a diagonal slot running through it and three screws? I've no idea what this is. Also the red handled plier type things and the similar looking black ones to the left of them. Bottom left, between the nylon hammer and the reamer there's a file of some sort, possibly diamond by the texture. Is this a fret levelling file? Also the blue fret press thing? The mole grip type has various felt backed, nylon blocks for different radiused necks, which looks great, but the blue one has a slot that is too deep for a fret. The fret would dissappear into the tool when pressure is applied by the looks of it, so I'm not sure about that either. Sorry for all the questions. I'll probably never need a lot of it but it was a good price for the lot so I took it all, I just want the fret dressing/levelling stuff, nut files and general set up stuff. Oh yeah,, there's a levelling beam as well, albeit home made, as in a length of steel box section which has been ground flat on one side. I must be boring folks now so I'll stop. Thanks in advance for any help. 🙂

Well both myself and the bass are still in one piece so we'll call it a victory, take that ya stinkin' router! 😁 Painted with conductive carbon stuff. This is kind of how it'll look, albeit everything is flipped over. Odd angles will obviously be sorted when it's fitted up properly. I'm going to stick with black for the scratchplate I think. I've toyed with a very dark brown tort or black pearl, I found one that was very dark, not the bluey grey, but after looking at pictures of other white basses the black just looks best. When these first came out I saw a demo of the white 2024X and fell in love, so it has to stay black I think.

You can change string spacing with a replacement bridge as long as the strings still run along the fretboard. Most generic replacement bridges have a 19mm string spacing, which if yours has 15mm might make the strings not sit on the fretboard when playing. I had this issue when restoring an old Kay bass that someone had put the wrong bridge on. A Squier Bronco bridge fixed the issue as it has 17mm spacing.

Well 'shit just got real', as they say. I've just dug out my old router and marked the top for surgery. The whole reversed P is moved towards the neck a tad to still retain bottom end on the EA side and to gain clearance in the scratchplate to the edge. The EA side is about 10mm further from the the 12th fret than my Precision and the DG side is about 50mm closer. Hopefully the result will be a slightly more focused bottom end, with a fuller, rounder top end. Basically a straight flip of the two pickups but then moved the whole unit about 5mm or so towards the neck. I'll leave the 5mm sliver of wood between routes on the DG side to give the pickup ring some support. Here goes. 🙈

Au - Pink Floyd

We more often than not have a background image of the the band in black and white and then have the text and band logo in suitable colours over the image. The text has to be prominent and the main focus, but the b&w background image rather than just white helps it appear more professional. Simple but effective.

Love On A Mountain Top - Robert Knight

Get The Funk Out - Extreme

Rumblin' Man - The Allman Brothers Band

Vindaloo - Fat Les

Burning Love - Elvis

Something Better Change - The Stranglers

You're The One For Me, Fatty - Miserable Mozza

Where is locally? Edit - Actually I've possibly mused over that one, is it in Glasgow?

Damnit has this forum taught you nothing man? Yes!! The answer is always yes! 😆

Picture This - Blondie

I did six months of gigs with only a secondhand Aria STB P bass and a Behringer BDI 21, straight to PA. Total outlay £60, £70 if you include the lead. I never had any issues or worries and would happily do it again, even using the Cruiser P bass I picked up recently for £20. Spending money doesn't necessarily mean you've got gig competent gear, spending time maintaining whatever gear you've got usually does.

Pictures Of Matchstick Men - The pre-denim paisley Quo

@gobasserkThat's brilliant, thank you so much. 🙂👍