heminder

Yeah I got a different tone from my index finger too because its tip is shaped differently from my middle and ring. I use 3 fingers, so it makes it even more pronounced/unbalanced especially on 4-note repeated runs (every 3rd note in the sequence will have a bit more "ping" to it). You can work on the angling and technique to minimise the difference, and it won't me heard as strongly in a mix.

Yeah the tension issue is a bit of a pain. I've noticed on my 5 string that the higher strings have good tension but the lower thicker strings tend to flop around a lot more. Alex Calber mentioned this in the one and only issue of Bass Guitar Magazine I picked up. There was a manufacturer that made an evenly balanced set, but he didn't say who it was. I got a pack of Warwick Red Label strings that are 045-065-085-105-135 and hopefully they'll be a bit better than the stock ones by bass came with.

one thing that i don't understand about the VPF is that the scoop frequency is centred at 380Hz, which is more or less the frequency of the "Low Mid" control (360Hz). markbass owners: does cranking the VPF knob produce a dramatically different result than cutting the Low Mid and boosting the bass and high controls? i can't help but think that a parametric EQ would be much more useful like in the EQ42S Momark module.

Hmm. I was interested in this wee little amp but it's missing an effects loop, so I can't use it with my looper :\ [quote name='bruce@tc' timestamp='1341927555' post='1726326'] Hi guys[/quote] Heya bruce@tc, good to see a TC rep here on the forum. I've got a question for you. Is there a Toneprint the gives the amp a looping functionality with the switch? That would be really awesome! Also, can Toneprints be loaded with Linux? It would be a PITA to find someone with a Windows machine and ask them every time I want to load Toneprints =P

he should have waited a decade or two and sold it as "original vintage".

surely you can just wire the pickups directly to the output jack and have a totally passive bass in the meantime? at least that way it will still be fully functional while you hunt down a commercially made preamp for it.

it doesn't matter what non-bass players think. you're a bass player and you can hear the difference. non-guitarists usually can't tell the difference between two guitars and their pickups aside from some visual aesthetics. same goes for drummers with their drums/cymbals, violinists, pianists, etc, etc.

Very unlikely that it's a mistranslation from Swedish. My bets are that they forgot to change it when they copy-pasted the text onto the design of the plate. Still it is misleading if someone has never read the certificate before, as 1979fenderhead shows. I'm sure it's great - a good design will still make a good cab/amp, no matter where it is put together. It's just that with stuff made over there, workers usually don't get paid properly and their health/environment often compromised - all in the name of low-cost and high-output.

Hmmm, that's quite misleading. If you go here [url="http://www.bass.se/2009/cl112.htm"]http://www.bass.se/2009/cl112.htm[/url] and on the [s]left[/s] right column you'll see a certificate of origin where is states that the assembly is done in China.

Been thinking of getting one of these for a while. Its specs tick all the right boxes, but I'm somewhat put off with the manufacturing being done by a third party in China - there's always a human cost for stuff made 'cost-effectively' over there. I may get a Tecamp Puma instead for that reason alone.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1340816796' post='1710066'] It wasn't a Warwick Rockcable, was it? This is exactly what happened to mine... [/quote] No, it was a Planet Waves. Not from the budget series either.

I've only had one lead go funny. Interestingly it broke because the little plastic between the tip and the sleeve vanished somehow.

a good book i can recommend is Music Theory for Guitar by Tom Kolb. that's the book i used to get up to scratch. it's designed for guitar but meh - theory is theory. it's fairly compact and can be had pretty cheaply i think.

Just purchased a cabinet from Karl, who drove all the way to drop it off. Good conversation and smiles all-around. Haven't had a play through the cab yet as I'm amp-less at the moment, but that's next on my list.

I've found several online shops to have a bit of an attitude aswell. An amp line had been updated with new models, and I asked them if they were currently stocking the new versions or the old ones. Was told they only had the old ones in stock but will only sell them to me at the price of the (more expensive) newer version. Later their site got updated with the higher price. Didn't buy from them again. All my online shopping is now done with the Germans at Thomann. Never had one problem or hiccup with them.

last i checked mechanical switches (especially heavy duty stomp switches) were a lot more expensive than jellybean electronics components. that's a reason we don't see mechanical switches on everyday consumer electronics.

it's not nearly as bad as crummy, old, and rusty potentiometers selling for hundreds - [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-Vintage-1966-Fender-Precision-Bass-Telecaster-Guitar-Pots-Electronics-/140761667608?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item20c60c9818#ht_1869wt_1189"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-Vintage-1966-Fender-Precision-Bass-Telecaster-Guitar-Pots-Electronics-/140761667608[/url] it's a gamble if they still even work.

use Hydrogen - [url="http://www.hydrogen-music.org/"]http://www.hydrogen-music.org/[/url] it's what i use. it's free and open source (GPL).

i used to use a Vox Amplug as a quick-fix solution to headphone practice, and it works OK in a pinch. but now i use a cheap Behringer DI (guitar link it's called, can be had for ~£20) for interfacing into my laptop, then feed the signal through Jack Rack and a bunch of plugins. sounds really good! i program some drums in Hydrogen and set them on loop and play to that. i don't think i could ask for a better setup for headphone practice.

I come from playing the e-guitar and i think personally playing with a pick with bass is kind of awkward. It doesn't leave the surface of the string quite the way that I'm used to / I expect it to, so makes me feel funny while playing and my timing goes off a bit because of it. So I'll just stick to using fingers methinks.

modding be easy, but it depends on the board. in the general case you'd only need to change one capacitor, but if it's surface mount then it'll be a bit awkward to work on.