BassBod

I think its because the 19" format and a double bass just don't go well together - even in American cars. I've got a lovely valve preamp that sounds great with upright - but I almost never use it (even with EUB) because of the extra carry a rack box (even the soft variety) demands. There's also the potential damage a rack box can do to a double bass in the back of a car. I've heard of a few nasty incidents. If you're touring a lot at a decent level its different - have a look at Steve Rodby's set up with Pat Metheny. But most of us will be happy to use rental, or the GK combos..not so long ago.

The Hartke LH500 is a good one to use as a measure - although its a new amp, and a fairly simple (and affordable) design, its pretty powerful and portable. Potential downside is the "fender tone stack" preamp design - I like it but many don't. And the "pre-only DI". A used one would be a great starting point for a portable all-purpose mini stack.

I'll say it...don't get hung up on the numbers. The published ratings for an amp don't really tell you what they can do - more of a (sometimes optimistic?) statement of intent. My old SWR head is rated a measly 160w into 8ohms but works wonderfully in many smaller situations. A lot of the results you hear are a combination of factors...output power, speaker sensitivity..cab design but also the room you play in. Its a balance between the type of sound you want...the power you'll need (and a bit spare for those gigs) and what you can/are happy to carry around and load in/out. Don't forget the DI option...it can let you think of your amp as a musical instrument, that is then amplified by the PA....saving you from having to carry heavy speakers that mostly only deafen you onstage! You'll get good deals and mostly honest informed opinions here. Its worth asking around.

Thanks for sharing the experience. My Goliath II rarely goes out these days, but its good to know there are replacements that sound good and weigh less!

No..plug the bass straight into your amp as normal, set your sound..then take a jack to jack cable from your amp's slave (or line out or effects send) output into the jack input of a DI box. Then let the PA connect to the XLR output of the DI. No need for any further pre-amping stuff, unless you like what it does for your sound.

[quote name='therose789' post='1224983' date='May 9 2011, 12:24 PM']so could i use the slave output of the amp, because i love the tone of the amp too much to have to faff about with other tone controls? say i just bought a decent DI box and took a line out from the slave out?[/quote] Yes, but you may have to use the input pad button on a passive box (or may not..these things are variable). I'd recommend a passive box as it won't overload as unpleasantly as an active DI hitting its input limit..although loads of people will also tell you an active box is fine.

I'd suggest using the sound of your amp. Get a good passive DI and take a line out jack from your amp (effects send often does the trick). I use a Radial Pro, and its always sounded good, with no noise problems.

DI, distortion and headphones - can't think of one box that does it all, but plenty that do 2 out of 3. Maybe focus on the distortion (as thats the most personal taste?) and get a simple headphone amp to plug into? Otherwise your into full blown multi effect boxes.....

The sound is probably a combination of the (Kent Armstrong designed?) pickups, wiring choices (parallel humbuckers) and the preamp. On a quick look..that looks like an expensive box for what it does (preamp and headphone amp) and there are many other options for less money.

[quote name='sockdeluxe_mikey' post='1220836' date='May 5 2011, 11:40 AM']Hello everybody! I should be gearing up soon to buying a bass guitar body to start serious work on a bass build, but I have normally been looking at American companies such as Warmoth at prices and specs. Is there anywhere in Britain that could build a very simple alder jazz bass body, no thrills, and for a relatively decent price? A body for about £150 or less would be very good! I am also considering doing the finishing myself, practice permitting. Thanks for reading [/quote] If its completely standard spec try Brandoni (old Japanese made, but good quality) or WD. If its something special then Shuker or Simms?

Try emailing Bert Gerecht @ Hotwire in Germany. He seems to have a good relationship with Pyramid and may be able to get them pretty quick?

They're good..but different. To me they feel a lot lighter than they are...much like Thomastik flats. Very bouncy to play, and fairly bright sounding. My suggestions would be the La Bella or Pyramid versions. Both have chunky sizes but also feel quite soft to play, but both also sound "better" to me than the Roto's. The La Bellas have much better "pitching" and sound a lot cleaner..and the Pyramids sound very soft and warm. Hope that helps a bit..but probably didn't!

I'm sure its nitro..the paint used to flake off, quite often. Had some overspray on older forearm wear patches. Worth trying the Pyramid version of those strings - they look rough (almost green??) but sound slightly softer and warmer. Yum.

I'd always suggest a Hiscox over a full flight case - the case will take a battering, and show it..but the bass will be well protected. Much lighter and generally easier to carry about, especially at airports.

[quote name='TPJ' post='1216719' date='May 1 2011, 05:52 PM']What's the input impedance on the Orchid? I couldn't find the rating on the website. All of the preamps I use seem to be 1 megohm. From what I've read a higher input impedance seems to help piezo pickups, but most on the market are only 1 megohm.[/quote] From memory its 1 Meg...but best email John@ Orchid to confirm? I asked him about it a few years ago, and he said that once you get really high input impedance it can start to cause other problems such as noise and "scratchiness" when the input jack gets a bit dirty. Most modern pickups seem to be a lot more tolerant - my Realist sounds ok straight into most amps...but a bit better with a preamp in between. My old Fishman BP100 sounds dreadful without some form of preamp help..and then needs a fair bit of EQ.

I really liked the LR Baggs Para DI. It has a permanent high-pass filter (designed for acoustic guitar boom) that works well, and some eq..but not voiced with bass in mind specifically. The only thing that is a pain is the tuner output, which is a stereo jack/loop setup, so you can't just take a mono jack cable to the tuner..it has to return. However, my favourite is the Orchid Electronics muting DI - cheap, simple and sounds like what you plug into it. Also runs on phantom power, and lets you silently mute/unmute your bass on stage with a discreet foot tap.

Another vote for Picato - the nickel rounds are very nice, and can be had for as little as £12 on the web. My stand by strings, when I can't afford DR's or Thomastiks.

They do look very good, don't they? I read somewhere they also cost a fair bit..which was good news. A good choice for a fantasy bass (mine would be a stack knob Jazz..2 tone sunburst. Yum. I can almost smell the sawdust and thinners).

Tort scratchplates that look like the (many shades of) older ones. There are some terrible looking things sold these days....nothing like a 60's/early 70's plate.

Nice one. Hopefully they'll think a bit before selling a "soiled "item as new...

I'd be tempted to keep the bass original and move to a lighter set of LaBellas - may also be kinder to the neck in the long run? If they feel wimpy (hey..you like Mesa cabs don't you?) then inch the action up a touch to regain your zest for life. Intonation and flats - be honest, the notes don't really last long enough to tell.....

And don't forget to name and and shame - we are a very forgiving community, but supplying "used" goods as new (and charging) deserves a special mention.

Yes. I found the AI preamp/eq a bit limited..even for upright. Nice, but very minimal.