MichaelDean

My brother wanted to learn guitar, so decided I should play bass. He got a Marshall starter kit, but I decided that I hated the shape of p basses at 13, so didn't want to get a Squier affinity starter kit. Some of my friends had them and some real issues with the necks. So, I bought mine from Noteworthy Music in Chippenham a good 20 years ago. It was an Aslin Dane jazz bass copy (sold with a really crappy starter amp, but that's another thread). Solid ash body, Canadian maple neck with a phenolic fretboard. With the hubris of youth, I decided that it wasn't a very good bass and I wanted to move on to something else quickly. I played it so much when I first got it though. The pots died after a while and then it sat unused for about 18 years until I finally rescued it this year. I replaced the pots and changed the strings for the first time since I bought it (gross I know...) and did a little setup. I took it to a jam earlier this year and it played well, but it was as heavy as remembered and didn't sit where I wanted it to in the mix, so I sold it in March this year to someone who will hopefully feel inspired by it.

I got one made about 10 years ago by Flight Case Warehouse when I had to fly mine. I sent a tracing of my Mustang and then they made a case to fit. Looks like they're charging £180 now... The thing is a tank though and really well made. https://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/industry/product.asp?item=bass-guitar-flight-case-fits-all-3140-3980

I feel your pain! My first 5er was a SBMM SUB Ray5. Really nice thing, and I played that almost exclusively for a few years while I was in a hip hop band and a function band after that. Then I got my Dingwall and the neck on that is so much wider than the Ray 5 as you go up the neck (still comfy though). Thing is my main 4 stringer is a Mustang. As long as I play them both regularly it's fine, but the Mustang is tiny in comparison!

I had a TU2 for about 10 years until the output jack failed last year and I botched the repair. Picked up a Polytune 3 mini and I think it's better. Quicker to pick up the notes (including a B string) and a much brighter display. Always thought the TU2 was fine till I got that. I find the Polytune ability a bit of a gimmick when I use it with a guit*r though, I prefer doing it one at a time. I want to get a TC clip on tuner too now to have around the house.

Happy to be proven wrong here! You might have better luck sending the little stubby out via the effects loop send (still with a load on the speaker) and feed that into the return on your class D head. The manual says that the send comes after the preamp, so accomplishes the same goal and you only need jack cables.

I thought it was great when I played in Japan. Every venue had an 8x10 with an Ampeg SVT450 or Hartke HA3500, drums minus breakables, a guitar combo (usually a Roland JC120) and a Marshall half stack plus keyboard stands etc. It made it really easy to play there because we knew we didn't need to bring amps, plus the sound guys know all of the foibles of the equipment. I guess if you trash the gear, word gets round and you don't get invited back too! Seemed like a really efficient way of doing it. Not sure you'd convince many venues round here to do that though!

The input should be set to match your bass and how you want to hit the front end of the amp. Ashdown recommend just tickling the red zone on the VU meter when you dig in. Try different settings to see what you like. For the output, it's so dependent on the room, your cab(s), if there is PA support. It isn't really a setting that ought to be replicated. Use your ears and guidance from the sound guy if there is one.

When I got mine back from Ashdown the other week, I did notice that it needed less gain on the input than before. Sounds like a good plan.

I want to second or maybe third the Planet Waves string winder with the cutters. I never wanted to spend the money to buy one, but always wanted one. I ended up getting one from my wife for Christmas and it's great! The cutters were much better than I expected them to be. If you're difficult to buy for, stick it on a list and let someone else get it for you 👍

Another idea (in addition to lightweight gear to help with your back issues) is to get a sack truck to help with not having to carry long distances. I got one from Aldi that I can put my pedalboard (one of these), cab (Zilla, vertical neo 2x12) and head (Ashdown ABM600) on. Bass is on my back in a gig bag. It's a game changer and I'm only 33. I can move it all in one trip!

No worries!

They might just be pushed down too far on the pots. Try pulling the top one up a scooch. Might be all you need. Edit: I saw you say dummies guide, when I say pull it up a bit, unless there is a grub screw on the knob, it'll just be a friction fit and a pull should have it sorted. If there is a grub screw, back it off, pull the knob up a bit and then tighten again.

Ooooh, fancy! What will it be?

😁 Happy new bass day!

Yup! And covered under warranty 😁

I dropped them another email, posted it off to them last Thursday, it got back to me today! Just need to wait to be able to jam again now!

Yep, if the net total is less than £135 (excluding the £8 delivery charge), then they add VAT in the checkout and UPS don't charge anything extra. I had a guitar delivered from them a couple of weeks ago. There was a couple of "Brexit related delays", but I got the order a week after it had shipped 👍

Nope that wasn't it. I swapped the tube and no change. The noise also wasn't present when I went from the DI to my audio interface, just through the speaker out and it starts whenever I hit the tube button. Doesn't seem to be related to the position of the pot for the tube drive. Sounds like it is a job for @Ashdown Engineering! PXL_20210405_194230173~2.mp4

Cheers guys. @Dan Dare, it was the middle of February but I never did follow it up with them. I know a new 12AX7 isn't expensive. Actually, now I have a Terror Stamp, I could probably just try that 12AX7 in there to check... 🤔

I felt inspired by this thread and after selling some bits, I bought myself a Harley Benton TE52 the other week. Cost £134 all in and I had enough for a second hand Orange Terror Stamp to go with it! I don't have a guitar cab yet and my bass cab is 4ohms, so can't put the terror stamp through that, but with a cab sim in a DAW, it's the sound I was after in my head. Two very good bits of kit!

Hi, I was wondering if any other ABM 600 owners could chime in with their experience/advice? Mine seems to have developed a big buzz when I engage the valve. Enough that when I was practicing with others, they'd ask, "what's that noise?". It's silent with it off. I'm guessing it's probably the valve that's gone. Disappointing as it's only 18 months old, but I know tubes can be temperamental! I did email Ashdown but didn't get anything in response...

I'm a big fan of the Dunlop nylon 1mm. They seem to just last and last and last, plus I find them super grippy. Not yet dropped one in anger.

I got the Dingwall Combustion in my avatar as an engagement present from my wife. She got a fancy ring so thought I should get something fancy too!

I'm a big fan of my Joyo Ultimate Drive for not a lot of money. It plays really nicely with my Dingwall and Mustang alike and seems to keep the low end intact. It's a Fulltone OCD clone. You can keep it low and have a really mild break up or whack it up and it'll give you some welly! Sometimes I wonder about buying a second to have as an always on pedal... https://www.joyoaudio.co.uk/jf-original-series-pedals/JOYO-JF-02-ultimate-overdrive-pedal

I've not played a newer Mustang, but I've been very pleased with my 76 Mustang and had loads of compliments on my tone. It's got an almost 40mm nut width and a chunky neck. Not too heavy at 3.9kg with a three piece ash body. I got it re-fretted last year and it sounds better than ever! I'm also about to upgrade the tuners to some Hipshot ultralights. The original ones don't work that well anymore and based on the condition it was in when I bought it, it hadn't had an easy life! Just about any bass can be a crapshoot as to whether it works for you though. As always, if you can play it first, but if you can't you can probably make your money back on a vintage or second hand instrument if you decide it isn't for you.