MichaelDean

It might be worth you trying out a PJ bass (if you haven't already). You can get a bit more high end from the J, but you've still got the P there that just fits in well.

I'd also prefer the block to be inside the thing. I guess they also probably have the same one for X number of products and it's easier for them to do it like that. I'm almost tempted to trim the long cable and put a new DC connector on it. Should probably wait for the warranty to run out first mind!

I'm glad you like it! If you get the bluetooth module and you're having issues with it, I recommend connecting to the audio signal before connecting to the MIDI one. It's the opposite of the booklet, but worked for me after a frustrating half an hour. You can't seemingly do anything with the footswitch colours/brightness. I was hoping to tweak the colours to my preference. No dice! If you don't need any other pedals, this cheaper case also seems better than nothing so far. I got an extra long figure 8 cable so the rest of the power block is velcroed down.

You can assign the expression pedal to multiple parameters at a time. That isn't an issue. I don't think you can change what the expression pedal is controlling in the same patch though. I think you'd need to use an external expression pedal for part two of your plan.

So, yes, only being able to play back other audio sources through the optional Bluetooth module is a pain in the backside. I capitulated on that add on pretty quickly. I don't use it for the Tone Studio app though. I find I can do any patch editing quickly enough on the pedal itself. Another oddity is that you can't create a blank patch/wipe one quickly. There are X number of presets (can't remember off the top of my head) and then X number of user definable presets with corresponding numbers but different prefixes. The user presets default to being the same as the main presets, which you can then either tweak or delete all of the blocks and start from scratch. Once you have one blank patch you can then copy that to other slots. If you choose the "initialize" option on a patch, it restores the original preset. Really odd choice I feel! The outputs aren't balanced unfortunately. And the headphone out mirrors the main outs. You can set a divider block up with just the one output with the amp/cab sim and one without, but you can only have one divider block per patch, so you can't necessarily do as much parallel processing as you might want. I've been OK with that compromise though. All of the guitar dirts have a clean blend and bass boost, the bass ones have a clean blend. But I'm finding myself using the guitar ones over the bass specific ones. The only bass specific effects I'm really using are the bass wah and bass amp. So, I've got one side set up with an amp and cab sim for front of house and the other without to go to my amp. Still really pleased with it. No regrets.

I almost sliced the tip of my left ring finger off the day before a gig a few years ago. I did surprisingly well with just a plaster. Thought it was going to be much worse than it was. Still got a scar on that finger.

I had some of an older version. They were worse than terrible. The cable was soooooo microphonic and the sound was bad. Bass response wasn't there and the highs were tinny. Unless you can try this version before buying, I'd avoid.

When I got mine, the cable upgrade was a "free gift". I didn't bother using the original one till the upgrade died a few years later. After a day or two of using the original one I ordered a new upgrade cable! I just couldn't deal with how the original one tangled as soon as you looked at it wrong!

I've also got a GX-100 and am loving it. The lack of line outs did concern me a little, but I went ahead anyway - as Al Krow says, just stick a DI on one output if it's a long cable run. It's a really great unit. No regrets at all. I've found that because there is an extra bass knob on all of the drives/distortions/fuzzes intended for guitar, they have been working out much better than the bass specific ones for my use case. The only downside would be any synth type stuff. There aren't any blocks for that with the GX-100. I guess you could layer other effects to make something synthy though.

The issue there is that the input gain also affects the valve drive. I'd much rather have smooth pots on the gain and volume.

Direct sunlight is really good at breaking down odours - not so handy at this time of year though! I had a smelly case. Left it out in the sun for a day and it smells no more!

I don't think they are a thing. As it mounts directly to the body, a ring isn't usually needed unless the route isn't shaped nicely, in which case it might be easier/look better to do a whole pickguard. I reckon someone would be able to knock one up for you though if you needed it. Try Brian: https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/earlpilanz

What did you get? (Pictures are always welcome!) Could you return it and opt for something else too?

I found it's something you just get used to as you get to know the instrument. I've had my Dingwall for nearly 4 years now - I don't even need to think about it anymore and it didn't take that whole time to get used to it. My fingers/plectrum just know where to go now. I'm also with Lozz on this. I've experienced it some standard scale basses too.

Ah, I didn't notice that!

The ABM 750 is much sleeker looking in my opinion. The light blue doesn't really do it for me either. I also didn't like older ABMs I tried, nor any of the rootmasters or cheaper combos, but the ABM 600 had me swayed. I'd recommend trying one out (if possible). I think the newer ones might surprise you.

I'm surprised I haven't seen an Ashdown ABM mentioned yet! The valve drive on my ABM 600 warms things up nicely. Really flexible EQ too. It should pair nicely with your Barefaced 610 too.

32 Ohm is easier to drive from most sources. I hear that cans with higher ohms have more detail but I'm not sure I've ever heard the same set with different Ohms to tell them apart! I've got a set of K92s. They're quite coloured, but once I got used to that, they're perfectly good headphones. Very comfortable too as a glasses wearer!

Bass Direct might also be able to advise. Might be worth giving them a call/email.

The EHB will probably not fit that snugly in a bass hardcase anyway, so it might be a moot point. The lack of a headstock means they can fit in guitar gigbags/cases.

I'm all about the black Dunlop nylon 1mm bad boys. Been using them for years, and they seem to last for ages and I've never dropped one live at a crucial moment! Plus a great tone. Not too flexible, not too hard. Perfek.

I can't help with the fit of a 6 string Dingwall, but one way to guarantee a good fit is to get a custom flightcase made. I got one made for my Mustang when I toured Japan because I couldn't get an off the shelf product that fitted properly for love nor money. You just trace the instrument on a roll of paper, post it to them and then they make the case. It's still in great condition now. https://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/industry/product.asp?item=bass-guitar-flight-case-fits-all-3140-3980

Good point! Edited!

It's a new year! 2023 is full of opportunities! Sod gear abstinence! What are you GAS-ing for this year? I'm after a Yamaha BB734a. Just found out that my cousin's husband, who is editor of a popular magazine, can get a ridiculous discount from Yamaha and is happy to enable me. I'm having a hard time not getting him to email them straight away 😅

I know it doesn't make a lot of sense and the nut width has no bearing on my Dingwall. But on my 38mm shortie Jaguar and my 40mm Mustang, I find the difference is really noticeable. My left hand just isn't comfortable down the business end. Similarly, on my 42mm p bass, the spread is a little more than I'd like. The dusty end tends to be more influenced by the string spacing at the bridge, but that doesn't seem to have much of an impact for me - I can make any bridge spacing work. For others, they can't work with a narrow or wide bridge spacing.