Jono Bolton

Most of the information I gleaned before trying it, I got from on here! A few people I'd spoken to had recommended heating the neck. My methods were far from professional; I stuck it in a low-temp oven for a couple of hours to heat it, but it seems to have done the trick. That particular tip came from Talkbass I think.

I've had the neck clamped twice previously but without applying any heat to it. Previously the truss rod was maxxed and I couldn't take the forward bow out. This time, I applied heat to it before clamping it into a back bow and leaving it to take the new position. Before putting the X-head adjuster back in, I chucked in a couple of washers that a mate had machined for me. When I strung it up again, the strings were bottomed-out all the way up the neck; it still had too much back-bow, which was something I'd not encountered after previous attempts. I slackened off the truss rod a touch and have managed to get it to the Fender-recommended amount of relief, which I've not been able to achieve before. I'm going to keep an eye on it over the next few days and see how it holds up, but this was a last-ditch attempt to save it before it was scrapped. I'm not getting carried away, but hopefully this time it works.

On a heel end-adjustable truss rod, if you turn the cross-head adjuster to the left and keep going, it comes right out. Similarly if you tighten it, it goes further into the neck. Not my neck but you get the idea: Maybe 'nut' isn't the right word, but as I said in the post above, I figured it out for myself and have it working correctly.

Yes, I meant back bow. This is what I was doing: I'd slackened the truss rod right off and taken the adjuster out before heating and clamping, I just wasn't sure how far in I should be screwing the adjuster before taking it out of the clamp. I've sorted it now though.

I posted on here a while ago about a bass neck that had too much relief and couldn't be straightened with the truss rod. I had it clamped a few months ago without heat and it's still got a bit too much relief. I've applied some heat to it today and currently have it clamped into a forward bow; the idea being that the heat makes the neck more pliable, and as the neck cools, it should help to set in the forward bow until string tension is applied. I slackened off the truss rod nut before heating it; should I be screwing the nut right in while it's clamped? Also, how far in should the nut go? If I screw it as far as I can get it, it's about 5 or 6mm in from the end of the neck. Thanks in advance.

I think both options are available. I was considering getting a set for my JV Precision. The bass is very light but the tuners give it a bit of neck dive due to the weight.

I had an MIC CV50s Precision; the white blonde version. I had taken it in a trade and didn't get much use out of it before selling it on, but my overriding memories of it were that it was well made, nicely finished, played well and had an absolutely enormous neck - definitely one of the fattest necks I've had. The small-handed need not apply. I wasn't keen on the colour of the neck lacquer; it was quite pale compared to the Matt Freeman and CV 60s Precisions I had at the time. I'd quite like one of the MIC butterscotch blonde ones as I like the darker, tinted lacquer. I find that the newer Indonesian CVs are too dark.

I played in a band that tuned to C# Standard for a few years, and for that I used a 5 string set - D' Addarios with a .130 as the bottom string. Anything lighter felt too flappy. I even tried a set of Newtones that were designed for detuning, but they were pretty rubbish IMO.

That's one of the original early-to-mid-00s Mark Hoppus signatures, and they all came with a rosewood fretboard. They were available in Surf Green (above), Daphne Blue, and Shell Pink. They did a revised version a few years later that had the pickup reversed, and had the truss rod adjustment at the need rather than the headstock. I'm sure they were all rosewood fretboard as well.

Do you have too much relief in the neck at the moment? Loosening the truss rod nut, clamping it into a back-bow, and re-fitting the nut might solve the issue, if I'm understanding it correctly.

Yep, after posting and the initial disappointment subsiding, it occurred to me that the bridge should hopefully cover any difference in the position of the neck. The neck could also be the same position on both bodies, but the screw holes in the pocket are in different positions, so the scale isn't actually affected. The existing screw holes in the heel are stripped slightly so having them filled and new ones drilled is probably a sound idea.

Hopefully someone can help me out with something I'm struggling to get my head around. I bought a P Bass body recently and went to fit the neck I'm using (Squier SQ Precision). I put all the neck screws in place and when I turned it over, the heel of the neck was about 2-3mm away from the end of the pocket. I took the screws out and moved it back and it's a nice, tight fit, so the holes in the heel of the neck will need to be filled and redrilled. The neck had previously been on another body (Squier CV) and everything lined up correctly when I put it together. Similarly, last week I was doing a bit of experimentation and swapped around the necks of my basses. The necks of my SQ/CV and my Matt Freeman Precision were interchangeable, but the holes in the pocket of my JV Precision were miles away from the holes in the heels of the SQ and MF. I know that I'm swapping different necks from different models, but I wouldn't have thought that there would be such a difference in the position of the holes in the heels and the pockets. In my mind, the SQ neck would be sitting further back in the new body than it was in the CV, and in turn would impact the scale length and the intonation. Is just a case of the screw holes in the neck pocket of the new body have been drilled slightly too far forward? Am I overthinking it because I'm annoyed that it's not a direct fit?

There's a blue SBV500 for sale locally for £400. It was £600 when it was first listed and looks in pretty good nick.

Are there any issues with this? I have a Japanese Squier P Bass neck with a 62mm width at the heel (2 & 7/16" in old money), but the standard width of a neck pocket is 63.5mm (2 and 1/2"). It would leave a minimal gap at either side of the neck, but does it offer any problems relating to alignment that I should take into consideration? Or anything else for that matter? I'm thinking of the old 70s Fender basses where the pockets and the heels were seldom a tight fit.

No idea what the body is, but the neck looks legitimate. Needs a bit of a clean up, and all monies go to charity. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FENDER-Precision-Bass-Guitar-1986-1987-See-Listing-W4-/324687002378?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

My latest acquisition - a Squier JV Precision Bass. It's had a pretty rubbish refin in Fiesta Red, and there's been a Jazz pickup fitted at some point that has been filled in and subsequently sunk slightly, but it's nice and light, and the neck is outstanding. It's going to get a new Creamery pickup to replace the one that's in there (anyone heard of Alexander Pribora?), and it's booked in with David Wilson for a Shell Pink refinish in a couple of months time.

I have my JV Precision booked in with David Wilson in a couple of months for a refinish in Shell Pink. Price was very reasonable.

I googled the name and saw Hexham and assumed it was the same fella. Is there a link to contact him? I couldn't find anything

Is he Walshy on here?